12 Inch Disc Sander Purchase - Which One?

[E W Wilkinson]

I'm looking at buying a 12 inch disc sander for taking my segmented bowls to another level...I hope. I've been looking at either the Delta 31-120 or the Jet JDS 12B. There are some threads on both this site and over at Woodnet Forums. I can afford either but for those of you who have them, I would appreciate any opinions...good or bad before I commit to an order.

[Dick Sowa]

I have the Delta model, and am happy with it. It's my first ever disk sander, so have no way to judge how others perform. The 2-1/2" dust port does a good job when hooked up to my DC. Solid cast iron table. The disk runs true, with no wobble that I can tell. The mass of the unit keeps it solidly on the bench top, and it runs quiet.

One thing that is sort of a nuisance. Installing a fresh sanding disk requires you remove the table first...although it can be done with the table in place, it is a real pain. When you put the table back on, it needs to be adjusted so the miter slot is again parallel with the sanding disk.

[Gerold Griffin]

Personally, and this is just me, I would look for one with a 6 X 48 belt on the back. For sanding segment ends I like that a whole lot better and then flatten the rings on one side with the disc, the other side on the lathe.

[Roger Wilson]

I've got the 12 inch Delta. It is a good solid sander. Dust collection through the dust port is good. All I use is my Fein shop vac.

It does not however require the removal of the table to put a new disk on, you just slide the new one down. You will have to rotate and tap the disk to make sure it sticks onto the metal platen (with your hand or a rubber mallet).

One problem I've had with changing the disks is getting them to stick. The platen should be cleaned before a new disk goes on. Before each use I'd rotate and tap the disk if you see any separation.

Unfortunately I've forgotten which brand of sanding disk I bought to replace the original (that may be the problem). I would assume this is a potential problem with all disk sanders and PSA sanding disks.

A nice jig that I built for the sander consists of a small piece of ply with a runner for the slot on the table. Glued on top are narrow pieces of wood at various angles (22.5, 45, 60, 90). This might be helpful for segmented work. Experimentation is required.

I changed the grit on the disk to 100 or 120. The sander is VERY aggressive so even higher grits will take off a LOT of wood very quickly, but higher grits will obviously leave a smoother surface.

One safety note, I even accidentally removed some of my finger once. It took a fraction of a second and fortunately didn't do any permanent damage. Like any shop tool it can be quite dangerous.

[Bruce McElhaney]

Personally I wouldn't try to flatten rings on a disk sander, but maybe if I had a very large one, like 20" or so. I usually flatten medium and larger size rings on a Performax 16-32 drum sander, and it does a great job. For flattening smaller rings, I do it by hand on a full sheet of sandpaper that's contact glued on a flat piece of smooth-flat granite. A disk sander is great for cleaning up individual segments. (so is a high-quality, sharp blade and a squared up saw, along with good technique).

I also use a floor stand mounted, Delta Sanding Center with its 12" disk and 6"x48" belt. However, I wouldn't advise using the belt for segments - I find it aggressive and difficult to control. The smaller Delta 12" disk sander seems to be a lot of bang for the buck, but I've never used one. Malcolm Tibbetts and others show how to make sanding jigs in their books and videos.

[Tim Cleveland]

I dont do any segmented turning, but if you want one that has a belt sander behind the disc, the Rikon looks very well built and I think they have a good reputation.

Tim

[Mike Minto]

I have the HF 12" disc sander - it is my first, so I can only comment on it and not compare it. It is very heavy, and has done well for me on all the sanding jobs I've given it. To make the table a little more stable, I added a couple of washers to make it easier to tighten the screws that allow it's angle adjustment. It's not really a down, but I do wish the table was not aluminum - it is not cast iron; but then, if you look at Larry Marley's excellent web site, his home-made disc sander has a table of wood of some kind, not metal at all, and it serves him well. my $.02, not adjusted for inflation. mike

[Robert McGowen]

Personally I wouldn't try to flatten rings on a disk sander, but maybe if I had a very large one, like 20" or so.

I used to flatten the rings on a piece of sandpaper attached to a thick piece of glass, the same as what you are doing with the granite. I went from 10 minutes of manual sanding to about 10 seconds of power sanding with a 12" Jet disc sander. Works great. I am even thinking about getting two disc sanders so that I can have one set up for the rings and one set up for the segments themselves.

So as to not stray from the thread, I can highly recommend the Jet. If you get one off of the internet, make sure you can return or exchange it for free. The cast iron feet have a tendency to snap off, as it is so heavy and without a great deal of protection in the box it comes in.

[Tony Kahn]

Don't discount the rikon 12" i have it and it is very well made and half the price.

[Ryan Baker]

Don't discount the rikon 12" i have it and it is very well made and half the price.

I also have the Rikon and I agree. The 12" Jet is a very nice machine too, though considerably more expensive.

[Keith Christopher]

I have the grizzly and love it. needed a little tuning but once tuned works like dream. I havent used a barrel trimmer in about a year.

[Ralph Lindberg]

I looked at the Harbor Freight, and rejected it. I also didn't like the Delta or Jet (I thought the Jet was better)

I bought the WoodTek (house brand for Woodworkers Supply) and like it, well, except for the fact the slot is not a standard 3/4 inch. I had to have it milled out to accept standard slides

[Chip Sutherland]

I only use 220 on mine only and it's plenty aggressive. It takes a micro-second to remove a few layers of skin on your finger tips but the knuckles are the worse....cause they burn for quite a while.