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View Full Version : Yet another drawer runner question



Doug Shepard
05-24-2009, 8:43 AM
I'll be screwing together some portions of this TS extension router cabinet today but I'm stuck on what to do about drawer runners for the narrow drawer spaces on either side of the central router enclosure.
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The lower wider drawer space will use ball bearing slides. The top 2 spaces are only 7" wide by 16" deep and around 10" tall. I haven't decided how many drawers will go in each spot . Part of that decision depends on what I end up doing for runners. For sure 2 drawers on each side but maybe a couple shallower ones for 3 on one side. I'm using 1/2" ply for the drawer sides which leaves only 6" wide inside the drawers, and that's before allowing for any side clearance. So ball bearing slides are out as they would need another 1" total.

My original thought was to glue/screw 1/4" ply on the drawer bottoms and extend it past the sides by some amount. Then apply UHMW Slik-Tape on the top/bottom of that bottom ledge and run it in a dado on the sides carcass. That could still work except for the bottom drawer on each side. I'm using pocket screws to put the carcass together and that lowest dado for the bottom drawers would be right through the area where the screw pockets are. At this point all the parts are cut so changing the carcass layout or joinery isn't an option. If I had thought the drawers out far enough, I probably would have done the carcass sides as 1 piece and done the pockets in the horizontal panels, but was concentrating on getting the carcass done first, and drawers later.

So now I'm thinking 1/2" UHMW runners let into a 1/4" dado on the case sides and a 3/16" dado on the drawer sides?? I've found a couple older threads that asked about using UHMW as runners but haven't found one that actually did it. Has anyone tried this yet?

What's the minimum side clearance I should allow for? I'm thinking 1/16" each side, but is that enough? I can plane the UHMW down a bit thinner as well, rather than weaken the drawer or carcass sides by deeper dado depths if necessary.

Whattaya think?

Barry Vabeach
05-24-2009, 9:22 AM
Doug, can't help on the UHMW, but I made drawers of a similar size and just used no slides and it works like it is on wheels - I used poplar for the sides and then installed poplar runners into the case above and below the drawer sides. Due to the long length and very narrow drawer, there is no racking. I don't have much weight in them mut they are very smooth. Unless you are going to put something heavy I would think it would work for you.

Joe Scharle
05-24-2009, 9:30 AM
I've used the slippery tape a few times. Drawers were piston fit and the tape supported the drawer sides underneath. Creates the bottom reveal as well. Works well and the drawer feels like it's on good slides.

Brent Grooms
05-24-2009, 10:43 AM
Doug, I would go with the last option you had in your original post. Personally, I would go with something like hard maple for the "slides/runners" unless you already had the UHMW. It will burnish in and could always add a little graphite if necessary.

With the wood runners, you could glue them in, and they won't pop out. UHMW would have to be screwed or other mechanical attachment and you wouldn't have much for engagement in the drawer sides. As for the side/side clearance, I would stick to 1/16". Worst case tolerance would leave you with 1/8" overlap on the carcase sides. I would also make the runners ~7/16" thick to allow a little movement of the wood without anything binding.

John Thompson
05-24-2009, 11:10 AM
I would use hardwood slides as I have done on every drawer I have ever built until I used some metal slides on a current desk-hutch. Soft maple is my wood of choice but I have used poplar.. oak.. birch.. etc.

Good luck...

Sarge..

Doug Shepard
05-24-2009, 8:45 PM
Yeah - I already have the UHMW. Somebody gave me a roughly 12" wide piece of 1/2" years ago and I never seem to get a project to put some of it to use. Thought this might be a good one. I've got to pull it down from the rafters and check how long it is. If I can't get the full drawer runner lengths out of it, I'll go with the hardwood.

Thanks