how to cut slots on router table

[tom coleman]

I am making some tool hangers and want to cut slots in 1/2 inch baltic birch shelve. Some slots 1/8 inch and some slots 1/2 inch

Should I drill a start hole and a finish hole and then route between them?
Using 1/2 inch plywood stock is it necessary to make this cut in multiple passes

[Robert Payne]

I would definitely drill start and end holes. I'd also put some blue painter's tape over the cut line to avoid tearout and use a spiral downcut bit and not cut the slot in a single pass. The downcut bit helps minimize tearout, too. Set the fence parallel to the slot and place the stock over the bit onto the start hole and then start the router when you are sure it is centered. I'd cut to just over halfway through the stock and then flip it end-to-end to cut the other side. An 1/8" slot is small, so be careful not the break the bit by moving too fast.

[Paul Ryan]

There are all sorts of ways to cut those slots. It depends what you have to work with. If it were me I would clamp a straight edge and use a plunge rourter and not mess around with drlling. I don't have sprial bit I am sure they work better, but I just cut 2 very clean 3/4 slots in birch mdf plywood with a normal straight cutting bit. Zero tear out and they turned out great. You can use a router table but plunge routers were made to cut slots.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Another way is to set the height of the bit, Set up stops ( assuming you want a stopped slot) and set the board against a fence and lower the board onto the bit moving it back and forth till it's all the way down.
Then cut your slot.

[Myk Rian]

Need some more info.
How deep are the slots?
How long are the slots?
How many slots?

[Doug Shepard]

+1 for just using a plunge router and either straight edge clamp or good router edge guide. With the router clamped firmly at the end points I'd just make repeated plunges (and vac out the chips in between) until you're all the way through, into a scrap backer piece. Then start cutting the connecting slot about 1/2 the bit diameter deep on each pass. The plunged holes will tell you by sound where to stop on each end.

[glenn bradley]

Since you asked specifically about the router table, I drill start and end holes the same size as the router bit. I then slip the board over the bit using one of the holes to set the fence and one stop block. Slip the board over the bit using the other hole and set the other stop block. Lower the bit to take an 1/8" cut and make your first cut left to right (always observe proper feed direction). Return to the start position and raise 1/8" and make the next pass. Continue till complete.

Take care on your smaller bits to avoid breaking. I have used the back and forth method but, only when I have clamped an aux fence to control the material movement away from the fence. Climb cuts on a captured cut can really try to push your material away from the fence. I find taking a little extra time during setup is always faster overall than redoing a damaged piece.