I need a good rip blade.....

[Brian Hale]

.....any suggestions?

I know the Forrest blades are good but man, the prices!

Brian

BTW, i've got the 3hp Bridgewood CS, plenty of power for a thick blade

[John Miliunas]

Brian, I think it's going to be hard to beat or even match the Forrest. The initial "pain" of the $$ outlay is really very temporary. I've got the same saw as you do (BW10LTS) and with the WWII, I can plow through pretty much anything without the slightest hint of the motor bogging down. :D

However, if you don't have the cash to lay out at the moment and still want a nice blade, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the Systi-Matic, combo blade. About 1/2 the price of the Forrest and I've gotten great results for both, ripping and crosscutting with it, though a ZC insert is really helpful for clean cuts. I've gotten glue-ready edges with it and it stays sharp for a reasonably long time. It's a bit noisier than the Forrest, but if budget is a primary concern, give it a shot. The only caveat here is, after spending the $$ on the Systi-Matic, you will still end up getting a Forrest at some point in time! :D :cool:

[Spence DePauw]

I've got the Forrest combo blade, but I also have a Freud Glue-Line Rip blade. It does as well on rip cuts. Glass-smooth cut lines. I leave the Forrest on most times, but do use the Freud for small part cuts, or where I need a flat bottom kerf.

Spence

[Jim Becker]

The Forrest 20t WW-II custom ripping blade is a real workhorse and reasonably priced at $64 on sale. (http://forrest.woodmall.com/cuswoodii.html) It's a more agressive blade than many of the ripping blades, but it's designed to do one thing and do it well...rip, including in very thick stock. I love it.

[Richard McComas]

The Forrest 20t WW-II custom ripping blade is a real workhorse and reasonably priced at $64 on sale. (http://forrest.woodmall.com/cuswoodii.html) It's a more agressive blade than many of the ripping blades, but it's designed to do one thing and do it well...rip, including in very thick stock. I love it.

Jim how smooth a finish do you get from the Forrest 20t WW-II cut? Would you say its in the glue line rip category?

[Howard Acheson]

If you want a good rip blade, no need to get a Forrest. A number of manufacturers make rip blades. What you want for 3/4" - 2" is a 24 tooth blade. Freud makes one that is excellent.

If you want a Forrest, they make a 30 tooth blade that they recommend for ripping 3/4" to 1 1/2" stock. They also make a 20 tooth that they recommend for 1 1/4 to 2" stock.

[Richard McComas]

If you want a good rip blade, no need to get a Forrest. A number of manufacturers make rip blades. What you want for 3/4" - 2" is a 24 tooth blade. Freud makes one that is excellent.

If you want a Forrest, they make a 30 tooth blade that they recommend for ripping 3/4" to 1 1/2" stock. They also make a 20 tooth that they recommend for 1 1/4 to 2" stock.
Howard, I live in an area that has only one sharpening service available to me I and don’t like their attitude so I send my blades long distances in the mail to be sharpened.

When I look for a blade the quality/hardness of the carbide is an important factor. I’m looking for quality of cut, but just as important is mileage between sharpening.

Do know which of these rip blades (Forrest and Freud) would get the best mileage between sharpening with the same kind of usage?

[Steve Clardy]

.....any suggestions?

I know the Forrest blades are good but man, the prices!

Brian

BTW, i've got the 3hp Bridgewood CS, plenty of power for a thick blade
I just bought two Freud LU87R010 24T thin kerfs. I have ran one of them about three weeks now. Nice glue line rip, not much edge sanding either.
Haven't ran them long enough to see how the life is, but they really are nice blades. Will rip 2" oak no problem, about as fast as you can push the wood.
49.00 each at my tool dealer.
Steve

[Jim Becker]

Jim how smooth a finish do you get from the Forrest 20t WW-II cut? Would you say its in the glue line rip category?
Richard, it's not as smooth as a "glue line rip blade" because it's a true rip blade with flat teeth. I believe that the "glue line rip blade" type has an ABTR configuration which makes it somewhat closer to a combo. If you have a need for that, the 30t Forrest would be a nice choice as it's great for both rip and crosscut. But my rips with the Forrest blade are just fine since I tend to make a very light pass on the jointer to clean things up anyway...it's nearly impossible to rip something perfectly straight, anyway, if its more than just a short board.

Relative to your subsequent question about hardness, the Forrest blades use C4 carbide, which is pretty hard stuff. I'm not sure what the Freud and other brands use. I know I get a lot of mileage out of my Forrest blades and the carbide is thicker, too. That makes for "more" sharpenings during the life of the blade.

Some time ago, I did a little mathmatical analysis in response to someone on another forum claiming that buying inexpensive blades (~$30)and just throwing them out was less expensive than buying a good blade like a Forrest. Over time, that really wasn't true when you figured the time a cheap blade would last and the cost of replacement versus buying a quality blade up front and getting it sharpened once a year...typical for a hobbiest. I don't have the figures anymore, but it only took about three years or so for the quality blade to have a better payback than the inexpensive blades. While I'm obviously fond of the Forrest product, this applies to just about any premium blade...they last longer between sharpenings and take more sharpenings over their life. (when it's done properly, of course) And given what we invest in our table saws, it makes good sense to me to buy quality when it comes to the part that actually comes in contact with the (expensive) wood!

That all said, I was perfectly happy with the Freud 24t ripping blade I was using prior to buying the Forrest 20t ripper. It just didn't "work real well" after I accidently ripped a 2" screw right down the middle...so it went in the trash! :(

[Byron Trantham]

Richard I have the Freud 24t blade and frankly it's great. I've been using it for some time now without any complaints. Like Jim, I always use the jointer regardless of how smoothe the cut is. When I decide the Freud needs sharpening, I will replace it with a Forrest. I own three Forrests now; a 12" miter master for my SCMS, a 7 1/4" for my circular saw and a WWII. Their like the battery advertisement - they just keep going ang and going and going. :) I think both brands are great but I just like the Forrest better but that certainly doesn't make them better! :D

[Richard McComas]

Jim, Brian and Steve, actually I too own the Freud 24 tooth rip blade and find it very satisfactory, I also clean up most of my cuts on the jointer or planer. I mostly rip over sized and finish dimensioning with the thickness planer.

My questions were mostly fishing around for carbide quality in regard to mileage between sharpenings. Thanks for your replies.

[Ken Salisbury]

Nothing runs like a: http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/deere.jpgNothing cuts like a:http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/forrestblade.jpg



IMHO ! !

[Jim Becker]

Nothing runs like a: http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/deere.jpgNothing cuts like a:http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/forrestblade.jpg

Well, I definitely agree with the second half, but the first one could spark a heated debate. Fortunately, we have TractorbyNet.com for that! :D

[Howard Acheson]

Do know which of these rip blades (Forrest and Freud) would get the best mileage between sharpening with the same kind of usage?

Carbide hardness is a compromize based on usage. The harder the carbide the more brittle it is. The softer the carbide, the sharper it can be sharpened. The last I knew, both Forrest and Freud used the same hardness carbide for their blades.

I can't be sure but I think the tooth geometry is more important in longevity than the carbide. The Forrest blades all have the same tooth sharpening geometry which is optimized for smooth cutting. The Freud is optimized for faster cutting and may last longer when used specifically for their intended purpose.

[John Miliunas]

Well, I definitely agree with the second half, but the first one could spark a heated debate. Fortunately, we have TractorbyNet.com for that! :D

Though I rarely disagree with you, oh one with long pony tail, I'm with Ken on this one! :D (Well, OK...At least for my particular chunk of real estate, anyway!) :cool:

[Chris Padilla]

I use CMT for all my blade needs but I hear so much about Forrrrreessssttttt and even the new Frued Glue-line rip that I may have to give them a try.

[Gary Whitt]

I also use the Forest WWII. On occasion, that is.....

I use Freud blades 90-95% of the time.
They hold up just as well.
Clean up as easy, if not easier.
Sharpen just as well.
Cost 1/2 as much.

http://www.freud-tools.com/sawblades.html
http://www.toolseeker.com/TlAcc/TableSawBlade.htm


I use the LM72 rip blade, LU85 chopsaw blade, TKR906 combo blade and the Diablo circular saw blades.
I also use the Freud SD506 dado set.

Freud blades , IMHO, are every bit as good as Forrest blades.

[Brian Hale]

Ya know, when someone ask me for advice on something like a camera purchase, i always say; Pick out the best you can afford and then buy the next better one.

I've got a few Frued blades and i'm pleased with them but the Forrest has so many folks touting it's great qualities that i'll just have to save another week or so and order one.

Think the 30 tooth would do good with rips? I've got 80 and 50 tooth Freuds...

Thanks Guys!
Brian

[Jim Becker]

Think the 30 tooth would do good with rips?
The 30t WW-II is a better "ripper" than the 40t WW-II when you get into thicker wood, yet leaves the same nice finish whether ripping or crosscutting since the tooth configuration is identical. I know of several folks who us it as their primary blade. It will not rip really thick stuff as easy as a true ripping blade with chisel teeth, but that's not an issue unless you do that a lot...and that would be more than justification for a dedicated blade.

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Jim.

Most of my ripping 6/4 or less so a 30 tooth it is. I need to order some other items like hinges, shelf pins and such for these birch media cabinets so i'll tack one onto the order...

Brian

[Jim Becker]

Brian, consider ordering direct from Forrest as you get sharpening discount coupons with the order. The current sale price is $90.90. (http://forrest.woodmall.com) But, of course, if adding it to another vendor order gets you free shipping, etc., that's worth looking at.

[aurelio alarcon]

The Forrest 20t WW-II custom ripping blade is a real workhorse and reasonably priced at $64 on sale. (http://forrest.woodmall.com/cuswoodii.html) It's a more agressive blade than many of the ripping blades, but it's designed to do one thing and do it well...rip, including in very thick stock. I love it.
the best number of teeth for getting a real nice glue-up line? For cross cutting? On a table saw? On a CMS?

[Jim Becker]

the best number of teeth for getting a real nice glue-up line? For cross cutting? On a table saw? On a CMS?
Aurelio, "number of teeth" is only part of the equation. The configuration of the teeth makes a big difference in quality of cut, too. That's why a 30t or 40t WW-II's crosscutting is like a mirror even though a "traditional" crosscut blade might have 60-80t...it's the way the teeth are ground. And for certain tools, such as the CMS/SCMS/RAS, the "rake" angle of the teeth is also important, both for cut quality and safety. Typically, those tools call for a negative rake angle, which means the tooth enters the material a little "gentler" than a TS blade with it's normal configuration or an agressive blade with a positive rake angle.

I "think" that Freud has some resources on their web site that go into tooth configurations, but I can't look it up at the moment. Generally, ripping blades have less teeth (20-30) and cross cutting blades have a high number of teeth (60-100). General purpose blades, that are often used for both cuts, are usually in the 30-50t range. And don't forget that blade size also comes into play...a 12" CMS blade would usually have more teeth for an "equivalent" cut than a 10" model will.