Natural Color Maple Hollow Form

[Steve Schlumpf]

Simple Maple hollow form with just enough curl to keep it interesting. 6 5/8” diameter x 3 5/8” high, sanded to 320 grit and has 3 coats of Minwax Gloss Wipe-On Poly. I will buff it out after the finish has some time to cure.

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As always, your comments, critiques and opinions are welcome!

Thanks for looking!

[Maria Alvarado]

Steve,
Beautiful as usual. You really have a winner in that particular form. I'm going to have to put that on my "to-try" list.

[Mike Golka]

Well done as usual Steve!! I like the form and grain. Sure wish I had access to that kind of wood, maybe I'd try more of that kind of turning rather than the segmented stuff.:rolleyes: Maybe not.:o

[Alan Trout]

That is a wonderful piece Steve. Well Done!!!

Alan

[Don Carter]

Beautiful piece, Steve. I like it a lot, but I can't get that green one out of my head.;) Got to try some of that RIT dye.

[Ted Evans]

Absolutely beautiful Steve! I hope to be able to do something like it when I get big. You talented people make it look so easy, and btw, thanks for sharing the pictures, I thoroughly enjoy seeing all the beautiful work of those in this group.

Bear

[alex carey]

Another great one, nothing bad to say.

[Wayne Bower]

Steve, that is a beautiful form. You keep raising the standards, we will never catch up. :)

[Barry Stratton]

Really nice one Steve!

[Toney Robertson]

Steve,

Beautiful form and the finish looks superb as usual.

How do you get by with only sanding to 320? I almost always have visible lines at 320.

Toney

[Steve Schlumpf]

How do you get by with only sanding to 320? I almost always have visible lines at 320.

Toney,

It's all in the wrists! LOL

[Keith Burns]

Absolutely perfect !!!!!

[Greg Bender]

Steve,
Nice simple form and as a result ,a great looking bowl.Knowing how you work its probably real hollow. How thick are the side walls.What do you use to get in just under the top to clean it out to the desired thickness.I can get the sides and bottom real good with a opening that size but getting to the underside of the top is an experience in snags.OK Steve,what's the secret?
Greg

[Eugene Wigley]

Another great job Steve. The wood, form, and finish are great. I really need to learn how to do that.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Greg - the piece is probably real close to 3/16" thick except at the bottom where I left it closer to 1/4". No real secret about getting the top areas thin - just keep working at it a little with each pass.

If you are experiencing catches in that area - then make sure you are cutting on the center and also that your cutter is freshly sharpened. Every time I experience trouble - in the form of catches - it is because of either or both of those reasons.

Stick with it! It gets easier!

[Eugene Wigley]

Steve, what type of tools do you use? Do you use something like an articulated arm? Do the articulated arm systems work well?
Thanks in advance

[Steve Schlumpf]

Eugene I use both of Randy Privett's hollowing systems - the Monster Captured and the Monster Articulating Arm systems. Do they work??? Yes, exceptionally well and at the end of the day - I am not sore from hanging onto some hand held hollowing tool and getting beat half to death!

Here is Randy's site for more information: http://www.monster-wood-tool.com/wst_page6.html

[Ryan Baker]

Beautiful hollow form Steve.

[Jim Kountz]

Man Steve you just keep crankin em out!! Another winner here. The grain is really nice and the form is excellent!!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Beautiful piece Steve. I must agree. I also have both of Randy's tools and they are top notch.

[Chris Rae]

A beautiful form, really lovely and graceful!

[steven carter]

Steve,

Very nice as usual. As a follow up to Toney's question about sanding, I also usually sand to 320 and have found that I have much better results now that I have drastically slowed down the speed. At what speed would you normally sand an object this size?

Steve

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thanks everyone for all your kind words! I do appreciate it!

Steve - I've been following Wally's advice when actually hollowing and have been running around 1250 rpm and find it works better than my old speed of 800 rpm. Sanding has remained the same and I run that at 127 rpm which is the slowest my lathe goes when the drive belt is in the high range. The turning revolves slowly but I do use an electric drill with 2" sanding disks and I run the drill from half speed to full speed - depending on the grit and the results I am looking for.

I have found that - maybe it's due to experience a little - but running at higher speeds when shaping and hollowing - I now start sanding at 180 or 220 grit. Last year I remember starting 120 or 150 if I had a really good day! Like I said - part of it has to be speed, part of it is just getting better with my tool control.

[Wally Dickerman]

Very well done Steve. It has a look about it that says, Thin walls. Are they?

Wally

[Steve Schlumpf]

Wally - thanks for the compliment! It means a lot! The walls are not as thin as I would like to get them - about 3/16" on most of it - and about 1/4" on the bottom. I have been turning the speed up like you suggested and it does make a difference! I am just now getting used to 1250 rpm and will eventually turn the speed up again and get used to that.

This is a fairly small HF and I was wondering what speed you would normally shape and hollow something like this? Just to give me some guidelines.... thanks!

[Jeff Nicol]

Steve, As a lover of hard maple, this piece has such subtle flashes of figure in it to give it a liquid look! I like the shape and finish too! You are on your way to the "Master" club!!! Only 23 million miles or so to go, so you better get busy!!

Nice job,

Jeff