fly cutter

[James Jaragosky]

I am thinking of purchasing the grizzly G2861 Fly Cutter to surface my spoil board.This bit with 8 inserts is less than $100
shipped.
Is there a major downside to using this tool that I am missing.
I just hate paying out $250.00 on a standard spoil board cutting bit I will use twice a year.
Thanks Jim J.

[Phil B]

I doubt that cutter is rated for that kind of rotational speed and very bad things could happen if you put that in your spindle - I would not do it.

PMB

[Guy Mathews]

James,

Back in the day before our company had all sorts of fancy bits and knowledge we would surface our spoil board using a 3/4 inch rabbeting bit. It took about 45 minutes to do the table and the results were excellent. We would run at about 400 inches per minute. While the "Machine and the computer" were doing the work, we would be doing something else.

My advice, save the money for software and use something from your existing arsenal of bits that you have already paid for.

45 minutes twice a year is a heck of a lot cheaper then a bit with a special name. In reality, it comes down to one thing. Marketing.

Does anyone really need a bit that was supposedly made for surfacing a spoil board?

Our company has survived just fine without one, and the bits we use to surface our two tables do not have special names and dollars added to the price.

Frequently on our Shopbot I have a call to do some real precision work that requires a level surface. I attach a small piece of ply to the table and surface the area I need with a half inch up cut end-mill. When the surfacing is complete, I home the XY and plunge the bit just below Z0 to remove the corner. I have now established a true XY to work from and I have a perfect area in which to work the project. Best of all, I did not have to surface my entire table and my original switch calibration is still in effect for later jobs after I remove the smaller board. This process works great and the half inch end mill bit has been paid for many times over from preexisting job runs. The addition of our CAMaster with T-slot aluminum top has also made this process easy as well. I simply slap a piece of ply anywhere on the table, clamp it down, establish an XY position and do the same thing.

We currently surface our spoil boards using an inch and a quarter rabbeting bit that we found in one of the router bit cabinets. Usually about every 2 months.

You can get one from MSC for $24.59. It does not say Spoil Board Surfacing Bit on the box, it says Rabbeting Bit. If you need it to say Spoil Board Surfacing Bit, spend anywhere from a hundred to two hundred and fifty bucks. If you do not care about what it says on the box, spend $25.00. and take you and your wife out to dinner with the remaining $75.00.

This whole thing reminds me of the movie Tommy Boy and the word "Guarantee" being printed on the box. In my opinion, companies are doing the same thing with this Spoil Board Bit. They are taking a dump in a box, marking it as "Silver" and selling it at the price of gold.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6kmIChzVo4

I guess you have to ask yourself, "Do I really need this bit, or is someone else telling me I can not surface my spoil board properly without it?"

Best of luck whatever you decide.

Guy :D

[Steve knight]

you only surface your board twice a year? I wish I could get away with that.
amana sells a 1.5" bit for around 40.00 it will do a good job and it is cost effective. part number 45566

[Angus Hines]

I like Guys observation. But, I would also call Fred @ Centurion I know he's developing a similar cutter with 3 blades that are change able and rotable. For a lot less than the Griz price.

[james mcgrew]

1.25 mortise bit 30.00$ +/-


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQvfjd0wk2o


jim

[Guy Mathews]

When I picked up my newest machine I observed that the spindle was not plumb. Knowing that a few shims would take care of the problem, I opted to correct it myself.

I had to put .035 worth of machinist shims at the bottom of my spindle mount to get an inch and 5/8 cutter to run perpendicular on the X axis across a pole turning that I set up on my A axis.

I made mention of it in the following Youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RIPsZHinSc

Because the spindle was not plumb, the bit would leave a ridge line on one side of the cut depending on the machining strategy used.

If you surface your spoil board and notice little ridge lines or steps, keep in mind, it may not be your cutter. It could be that your spindle or router is not plumb or trammed properly.

In addition, if your spindle is not trammed properly, the ridge lines created by a cutter will get deeper as the cutter diameter gets wider.

[James Jaragosky]

When I picked up my newest machine I observed that the spindle was not plumb. Knowing that a few shims would take care of the problem, I opted to correct it myself.

I had to put .035 worth of machinist shims at the bottom of my spindle mount to get an inch and 5/8 cutter to run perpendicular on the X axis across a pole turning that I set up on my A axis.

I made mention of it in the following Youtube video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RIPsZHinSc

Because the spindle was not plumb, the bit would leave a ridge line on one side of the cut depending on the machining strategy used.

If you surface your spoil board and notice little ridge lines or steps, keep in mind, it may not be your cutter. It could be that your spindle or router is not plumb or trammed properly.

In addition, if your spindle is not trammed properly, the ridge lines created by a cutter will get deeper as the cutter diameter gets wider.

I have a couple of illustrations in a photo album on my User ID Page that shows what happens when the center line of a spindle is not plumb.
Thanks for this information guy. you are a wealth of information.

This post proves that my $6 contribution to help keep the creek on line was money well spent.

[Guy Mathews]

I know what you mean. I finally coughed up some money to the Creek as well! Great site.