Combo Machine Mortiser?

[Jamie Smith]

Does anyone here have any experience with the mortiser attachment for the various combo machines?

If so, what do you think of these? I am in the early stages of looking in to getting a 12" jointer/planer combo, and trying to weigh the merits of the mortiser attachment.

How well do they work?

Do they work with angled pieces?

Do the tables tilt (thus allowing compound angles)?

For the cost differential, I am more inclined to go with the leigh FMT route (no pun intended), which would then allow the grizzly offerings to come in the the comparison.

Thanks,
-jamie

[Jim Becker]

Although I don't own the mortiser for my particular MiniMax J/P combo, I've used one in another shop. Works extremely well.

[Paul B. Cresti]

I have one for my 16" j/p....and I really like using it.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=33381

[tim rowledge]

I use the one on my minimax cu300 and find it very effective. For furniture size parts it is a really good solution. For very large parts I think something else would be needed; no mortising for timber frames!

The table doesn't tilt but it isn't hard to add a fixture when you have such a solid base upon which to work.

[Rick Fisher]

If anyone ever feels the need to make a little video on how those work..

I mean how you actually make the tennon the right size for the mortise.. etc..

I would love to watch it.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Jamie,

I have a mortiser on my MM FS41 jointer/planer, it works great, really love it. Nice clean, fast and accurate mortises without the screaming noise of a router. Making the tendon stock is just a matter of making the tendon stock so it is a slight slip fit into the mortise.

[Frank Drew]

If anyone ever feels the need to make a little video on how those work..

I mean how you actually make the tennon the right size for the mortise.. etc..

Rick,

The mortiser itself, of course, doesn't make the tenons, at least not most efficiently. If you're making loose tenons you just plane some wood strips to the correct thickness -- fit testing in the mortise as you go -- then rip the stock to final width and round over the edges (much easier than chopping the ends of the mortise square.) Alternatively, integral tenons can be cut on your table saw, either flat with dado blades or both standing up and flat, with a jig.

[Brian Gumpper]

I have one on my CU300 but never used it. I am curious though about what type of bits it uses because I'm going to grab a couple and give it a try.

[Frank Drew]

Brian,

I've used two-flute upcut spiral end mills for slot mortising; others report good results with bird-mouth bits, which I think are two-flute straight cutters with a business end suitable for plunging. There are also sawtooth bits but I'm not very familiar with them in use.

[Brian Gumpper]

Thanks Frank. I didn't realize it used a regular 1/2" shank router bit, thought there might be some special mounting.

[Frank Drew]

Brian,

I don't know anything about your machine, so can't say what kind of bits it needs; I was talking generally.

[Jamie Smith]

Thanks for the insight everyone, I have some serious thinking to do.

The quote I got for the hammer a3-31 was well north of $4000 with the mortiser.

I guess that I have to go back to the drawing board, to reconsider the lagunas and grizzly again. The 16" laguna with a mortiser is less than the similarly configured hammer (albeit without the mobility kit)

[Joe Zerafa]

I have one on my cu300 its a great unit, but to be honest i havent touched it since i got a domino.


Joe Zerafa

[Tony Bilello]

I have used the mortiser on a combo machine in someone else's shop.
I loved it. Fast, easy and obviously very stable.

[Joe Zerafa]

A little off topic but has anyone cut tenons using their mortiser? Not sure if the lateral stresses would be bad for the bit?

Joe Zerafa

[Narayan Nayar]

I have one on my cu300 its a great unit, but to be honest i havent touched it since i got a domino.

This is my issue. I have a Hammer A3-31 and have been contemplating the mortising attachment for a while. But I have had a Domino and every time I use it I wonder if my desire for the combo mortising attachment is just gear lust.

I guess the mortising attachment would be a godsend for very repeatable mortises. But I'm not a production shop, and in most cases "repeated mortise" would mean, what, 4 or 8 mortises?

Part of my hesitation too is that I really don't have any more space in my shop to store things (having the mortising attachment attached permanently to most of these machines would be inconvenient for other operations). I get a new pencil and I swear I have to redo ductwork and electrical...

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I have the Felder mortiser attachment for my CF741, and I'm a believer. Pretty darn slick way to do mortise and tenons. One difference between these add ons, and a high quality dedicated machine is that the table moves, not the head on the attachment. On a Felder stand alone machine, the head moves. This would give make mortising large stuff a little easier I suppose, but honestly, I have never even come close to having a problem with the moving table on the attachment mortiser.

Just like all the Felder stuff, its built extreemely robust. It is not on the same level as the 700 series machines though, it has somewhat rudimentary adjustments, but they are brutaly simple, and effective. All in all, good investment.

[Rick Fisher]

lol..

I kinda feel like a dufus.. I thought the idea was that the slot mortiser made the tennon as well..

But.. then it would be a Slot tennoner..

I can see how it would make the mortise..

So .. if you plane down loose tennons.. you have a square peg and a round hole..

Do you ease the edges on the tennon...

One of you guys needs to make a short video clip.. :rolleyes:

I dont think I am the only one who is curious.. I think I am the only one asking. lol..

[Frank Drew]

Rick,

As mentioned above, a slot mortiser isn't, IMO, the best method for making tenons, although it can be done with integral tenons (but not loose tenons).

As also mentioned above, once you've milled your spline (loose tenon) material to thickness and width, it's a snap to round over the edges, most quickly with a r.o. bit in your router; if you've got a 1/2" mortise, rounding over the edges of the tenon with a 1/4" bit will get you very close to a perfect fit, with maybe just a bit of sanding.

Yes, a video of all this would be nice; one picture worth more than thousand words, etc...

[Frank Drew]

I get a new pencil and I swear I have to redo ductwork and electrical...

Narayan,

:D

[Rye Crane]

Joe,

I think that would be next to impossible and dangerous.

I use my mortissing table hanging on the side of my MM FS2 the 520 mm j/p. It works great, I find that I use loose tennon joinery now for most applications. It's quick, easy and when you make your tennon stock it's out of the same stock as the project, easy to fit correctly and stick it together.

Rye Crane

[Steve Rozmiarek]

lol..

I kinda feel like a dufus.. I thought the idea was that the slot mortiser made the tennon as well..

But.. then it would be a Slot tennoner..

I can see how it would make the mortise..

So .. if you plane down loose tennons.. you have a square peg and a round hole..

Do you ease the edges on the tennon...

One of you guys needs to make a short video clip.. :rolleyes:

I dont think I am the only one who is curious.. I think I am the only one asking. lol..


Well Rick, if it rains, I gladly take the excuse to get out of the fields and into the woodshop to do a quick video. It never rains here though, so it might be a while. Love what farming for a living does with my summers:mad:.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

For the roundover of the tenon stock, using the same radius roundover bit in your shaper or router as your tenoning bit, will yield a perfect fit.

I have a few extra feet of tenon stock planed and rounded laying around most of the time, so that I can just use a standadrd width, say 2" for my mortises for most projects. Keeps things simple that way.