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View Full Version : Cross bracing a table apron



dan lemkin
05-19-2009, 11:43 AM
I am building a dining room table. Walnut top, 1.125" thick, measuring approx 50 x 83". I was going to recess the apron 4" from the edge of the top and make it 4" wide by approx 1" thick.

I am going to make some cross braces for the top, but was wondering if I should place a cross brace in the middle of the table parallel to the short axis... to provide some more rigidity to the apron.

If so, can you recommend a joint. I am hesitant to dado the joint as I think this will reduce the strength of the long axis apron piece. I am using the rockler ~4x3" metal corner braces and 3/8" hanger bolts to secure the legs to the apron.

Can anyone provide recommendation for apron construction/reinforcement?

thanks
dan

Todd Burch
05-19-2009, 11:55 AM
If I understand you right, this is what and where you are contemplating putting a stretcher?

IMO, all the cross stretchers need to go in this direction.

dan lemkin
05-19-2009, 12:08 PM
nice drawing!

Yep... I was going to reinforce the top with 2 cross stretchers, with overlarge holes to accommodate expansion/contraction. I was unsure, however, if I need to reinforce the apron with a cross-stretcher in the same plane- which will be assembled separately and connected with table clips. This is not an expanding table.

If so, how should I mount the cross-member to the sides of the apron without compromising the strength of the apron which must span approx 6-7 feet with a heavy table top?

thanks

Richard M. Wolfe
05-19-2009, 12:19 PM
I would use either pocket screws or glue blocks. Generally when I've done a large table it has drawers and the cross members for hanging the drawers help with reinforcement.

Greg Hines, MD
05-19-2009, 1:11 PM
nice drawing!

Yep... I was going to reinforce the top with 2 cross stretchers, with overlarge holes to accommodate expansion/contraction. I was unsure, however, if I need to reinforce the apron with a cross-stretcher in the same plane- which will be assembled separately and connected with table clips. This is not an expanding table.

If so, how should I mount the cross-member to the sides of the apron without compromising the strength of the apron which must span approx 6-7 feet with a heavy table top?

thanks


Others might be able to comment on this, but I doubt that a 1/4" dado would do anything to compromise the strength of your apron, and in fact, would add to the overall rigidity of the frame. A dado that depth would still leave you with 3/4" thickness to your apron, which would be plenty strong. You could still use Pocket Screws or Glue Blocks on it if you wish.

Doc

Frank Drew
05-19-2009, 1:39 PM
Dan,

That's a pretty big top.

For attaching the cross brace, consider a sliding dovetail, which will give you very good glue-plus-mechanical strength while eliminating the need for all sorts of other fastenings, etc. It needn't be very deep so won't compromise the strength of the aprons.

I'd cut the dovetail with a router bit, using the same bit for both male and female portions of the joint to ensure accuracy, probably cutting the female portion in the table aprons by first cutting straight grooves (saw, straight router bit, whatever), then dovetailing the sides of the grooves. You can fine tune the fit on the crossrail tails (cut standing up) by minutely adjusting your router table fence until you get a snug sliding fit you like.

I'd also mortise and tenon the aprons/legs in addition to using corner braces.

Prashun Patel
05-19-2009, 1:59 PM
A sliding dovetail's overkill.
Pocketscrews are the easiest.
A dado is also straightforward.

Frank Drew
05-19-2009, 2:42 PM
A sliding dovetail's overkill.


Au contraire, mon frère! Joinery more complex than butt joints with pocket screws might be more work than you're willing to put into what you do, but if we're talking about custom furniture, heirloom furniture even, then it's well worth taking extra, though in this case entirely appropriate, steps to ensure a long lifetime of use.

Joinery can be overkill if it's simply used as a hot lick, meant to impress, with no redeeming cabinetmaking purpose, or if simpler, more economical, methods can give as good results (the operative words, here.)