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View Full Version : How to join solid panel to plywood?



Joe McMahon
05-18-2009, 6:34 PM
I am building a tack trunk for my daughter. It is a basic box made from 1/2 plywood. 36W X 25 D X 24 H. The lid is 1/2" plywood 22 X 36 and is mounted on 4" sides to complete the top. Now to my problem:

My daughter wants the top engraved. I built a panel glue up out of hard maple which is 3/4" thick. If I mount the top to the four 1/2" pieces of plywood that form the sides of the lid, I will have an expansion problem. So I can't just glue the panel to the lid side pieces. Since the pieces are 4" high, I can't put screws through them into the panel.

How can I secure the solid maple to the plywood sides?

Joe

Jason Beam
05-18-2009, 6:57 PM
Maybe I'm not seeing what you're describing correctly - but why can't you just drill elongated holes in the plywood and screw up into the panel?

Joe McMahon
05-18-2009, 7:26 PM
Maybe I'm not seeing what you're describing correctly - but why can't you just drill elongated holes in the plywood and screw up into the panel?

The plywood is on edge and joins the panel at 90 degrees. The plywood makes a rectangle on edge and the panel covers the rectangle. If you drill through the plywood, it would be through the 4".

Jeff Wittrock
05-18-2009, 8:01 PM
I suppose you could glue narrow strips of solid wood along the inside top edge of the lid (maybe 3/4"x3/4" or so). You could make the elongated holes in these strips and screw the top to the sides through these holes.

I suppose you could also cut a slot on the inside edge of the top to accept sliding cleats which would screw to the top. Not sure how visible the inside of the lid will be, so the slot in the plywood may not look so good.

-Jeff

Alan Schwabacher
05-18-2009, 8:40 PM
Have you built the top already? This would be a perfect situation for a traditional frame and panel top. In fact, this is the reason for frame and panel construction. You'd make a tongue on the edge of the panel, and a groove to fit it in the edge of solid stock you use to make a frame around the panel. The frame could then be attached to the plywood edge.

Jim Rimmer
05-18-2009, 9:50 PM
:confused::confused: Pictures :confused::confused:

Joe McMahon
05-18-2009, 10:35 PM
:confused::confused: Pictures :confused::confused:

These are from the plans http://www.elitetackdesign.com/BTT_pg.html

David DeCristoforo
05-18-2009, 11:02 PM
Frame and panel top is a good idea. Also you could use "clips" to attach the top muchas you would for a table top.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=85143&d=1206720027

Joe McMahon
05-18-2009, 11:59 PM
David, I believe that you have the ansawer that I will go with. Thanks!!!

sean m. titmas
05-19-2009, 12:45 AM
Have you built the top already? This would be a perfect situation for a traditional frame and panel top. In fact, this is the reason for frame and panel construction. You'd make a tongue on the edge of the panel, and a groove to fit it in the edge of solid stock you use to make a frame around the panel. The frame could then be attached to the plywood edge.


Even though Joe already decided on a method I wanted voice my agreement for Alans suggestion of a frame and panel lid. I like the F&P because it is a simple, straight forward design with a classic style that has numerous applications. Plus it can eliminate exposed end grain, allows for the display of different grain textures and a choice of profiles for the panel.

Tom Veatch
05-19-2009, 4:10 AM
Joe, devices like that can be either shop made, or purchased as hardware. One example is http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784. I personally prefer the hardware solution since it usually requires a thinner slot in the skirt, but either works well.

Doug Shepard
05-19-2009, 7:46 AM
Joe, devices like that can be either shop made, or purchased as hardware. One example is http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=784. I personally prefer the hardware solution since it usually requires a thinner slot in the skirt, but either works well.

I like these too but I've only ever used them on 3/4" (or thicker) stock and cut the slot with a biscuit jointer. I dont recall how deep the slot needs to be but it might me getting pretty close to Joes 1/2" ply thickness.

David DeCristoforo
05-19-2009, 11:04 AM
"...how deep the slot needs to be..."

I usually go with a three eighths depth but with half inch thick ply I would make the grooves a quarter of an inch deep and I would not make them continuous. I would route slots a few inches long only where I was planning on putting the attachment clips. But FWIW, I think the frame and panel top would be a better solution for a box unless there is a specific reason that a solid top is needed.