Custom Shop Slab Door Help

[Scott Gibbons]

Good Afternoon all
As a little background, I have an oversized 3 car garge (Uninsulated)
In this garage, I created a 12' x 24' wood shop that has been insulated all around. I live in michigan so the winters get pretty cold. I wanted a large door opening to haul wood in and out without any issues. When I framed the seperating wall I created space for a 42" x 96" door. I realize I will have to fabricate this, and I have never done anything like this, so I am looking for a little help on how to do it and what to use for materials. The door is inside the garage so I am not concerned with weather exposure, but I do plan on heating and cooling this area so I would like to keep it energy efficient.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

[phil harold]

swinging door or sliding?

You could make an insulated door with sandwich of 1"foam and plywood
strengthen areas for where you mount the hardware (hinges and lockset) and the edges
make sure to use glue that will not "eat" the foam

[Scott Gibbons]

Thanks Phil!
you think 3/8 plywood on each side 1" foam in the center? maybe 3/4" plywood doubled up around the parameter for support?

[Joe Jensen]

I'd do the best high density foam inside, and I'd skin it with the best 3/8" plywood you can get. I'd also find a glue that will bond the foam core to the skin. This will creat a torsion box structure. I'd use a hardwood around the edge, maybe 2" in from the outside all the way around. Hardwood will hold screws best.

[phil harold]

+1 on what joe says

[John Schreiber]

+ 1 again, but you may as well as go with 2" foam board. It will weigh just a little bit more and will keep more of the Michigan winter on the outside.

[Jimmy Coull]

I've made these type of doors for a shop before, I had to make two 48" x 96" doors. Make the frame out of 2 x 4's , it will be a 42" X 96" rectangle with 2 x 4 across the middle creating two 42" x 48" squares. I used half lap joints on all corners and for the middle piece. Now decide what you are going to use for skins, I used 1/4" for the inside and T-111 for the outside. Nail one skin onto your frame use construction adhesive as the glue, then get some ahrd 1 1/2" insulation board (it is sold at real construction yards, not all of the retail giants carry it) and cut it to fit between the 2x4's, you want a tight fit and you can attch it with the construction adhesive if you feel the need. Then put the other skin on using the nail and construction adhesive method, and now the door is finished. Do not nail right up to the edge, this way you have space to trim the door to fit the doorway, door hardware and the hinges will mount fine because of the width of the 2 x 4's. I built these doors in a shop in New Jersey that I had and they were still going strong 8 years later when I moved.

Make sure that your 2x4's are straight and have no splits, you may have to buy 2 x 4 x 10's or 2 x 4 x 12's to work with.

Good Luck,
Jimmy

[Scott Gibbons]

Awesome, thank you all for your help. Looks like i have a weekend project!!

[Jimmy Coull]

Scott,

A few thins that I left out :

1) I used screws to hold the half lap joints together and....

2) When putting nails and screws in to the door during construction, make sure that they won't interfere with the positioning of the hinges, because it will be a pain in the end, Don't ask me how I know This :>).

Good Luck,
Jimmy

[Brian Backner]

Scott,

Here's an indepth webpage on building an energy efficient garage door. If any of you haven't seen this guy's website, you owe it to yourself to check it out - hundreds of subpages on all kinds of stuff:

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/gar-dr-1.htm

Brian