The Birth of a narrow Frame Saw for resawing (a tutoral)

[harry strasil]

To start with, I found an old 6 ppi saw blade without a handle someone gave me, filed and set it to suit me.

Then went up to visit my Blacksmith Shop and cut the tooth section off to suit me, and forged a rather crude rams horn wingnut, and the two 3/8 square pieces to tension it with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/newframesaw001.jpg

now to make end Bolsters and Stretchers.

[harry strasil]

Got the holes drilled in the Web and the Hdwe, and the Bolsters made. Loose assembly to measure for the Stretchers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/newframesaw002.jpg

Wanted to use it quickly, so found a couple of 3/4 dowels to use. Will probably make proper Stretchers later on, But it is Functional and does work well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/newframesaw003.jpg


I know its fast and dirty, but it got the job done.
I started filing the blade at noon and the saw was finished at a little after 5.

[Ken Werner]

Nice saw Jr. Do you use it pulling or pushing?

[Greg Crawford]

Harry,

You may say crude, but it looks great the way it is. I can't wait to see the finished product!

You've mentioned cutting old saw blades before. What do you use to cut them? I didn't know if a hacksaw with a good blade would go through that metal very well or not.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us.

Greg

[John Schreiber]

That looks like it does the trick nicely. I'm not clear on the hardware though.

It looks like on the inside part of the hardware, the part touching the blade, they are offset slightly then drilled and the blade is attached with a nut and bolt. Have I got that right?

Then on the outside parts of the hardware, outside of the wooden frame, your threaded wing nut holds it on one side, but I don't see what holds the other side in place. Also, how do you make the threaded part. Is there a blacksmith secret to making a matched nut and screw?

[harry strasil]

Ken, I pull a drawknife, spokeshave, nails and an old fashioned crosscut saw, and my pug tooth handsaw. I cut on the push stroke with most saws.

Greg, I use a plasma cutter to cut my webs from old saw blades.

John, I stared out with 3/8 hot rolled square bar, used my guillotine tool to forge a section round, then threaded it with a hand die when cool.

The ends are forged down to about 1/8 thick as this spreads the metal enough to allow drilling a 1/4" hole thru it, the none adjustable blade holder just has a 3/16" hole drilled in the center and short piece of 3/16 rod stuck in it to keep it from pulling thru.

[harry strasil]

New Framed Veneer Saw Finished, with walnut stretchers and blade guard made and installed. One coat of clear Danish Oil like my other saws.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/newframedsawfinished.jpg

[Jim Paulson]

Harry,

Thanks for this post. I haven't really thought about making one of these saws, but I appreciate your sharing the design. I especially appreciate the wisdom of using the square bar for the hardware. It locks the blade in a vertical position which is what you want for cutting veneer. I'm an amateur on the blacksmithing side, but I can handle forging a square bar into a rod at one end and then cutting a thread on it.

Was any heat treatment required after you cut the threads?

Take care,
Jim

[harry strasil]

No, the square is the new Mini Mill Mild Steel and of unknown carbon content, it needs to be annealed before threading, (let air cool) after forging. better to have something bend than break or so hard you cant drill it.

[harry strasil]

I reforged the cruddy looking wing nut this morning to a more pleasing form.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/newframedsawwingnut.jpg