Rub & Buff??

[Joe Baker]

Havent been doing this but a couple of weeks. Today i tried using rub & buff to fill a dragon logo (appx 1" in size). Didnt have very good results. I was doing it on wood. It marked a fairly good portion of the surrounding wood a bit. If i cleaned it any better it would clean the color out of the design. Any suggestions? What does everyone else do out there that wants to add a color to an engraving design??

[Gary Hair]

I use a paint mask and laser through it. If you have too much detail, or small text, then I'll use acrylic paint - it wipes of easier than rubnbuff.

Gary

[Joe Baker]

I got some acrilic today. Will give a try tomm and let you know how it does for me.

What do you mean by using a paint mask and lasering thru it?? Paint first and then laser over the paint??

Gary, i appreciate your tip on acrylic and your post. thanks

[Thad Nickoley]

I think he means to use a material on the wood, laser through it, paint, then peel off the material.

[Mike Null]

The masking material is typically transfer paper, masking tape, vinyl, or a laser mask sold by some plastics companies.

I usually use transfer paper.

[Joe Baker]

That shows you right there how green i am. That sounds like it will do the job perfectly. Will give it a shot tomm. thanks guys

[Joe Baker]

I used masking tape as a masking agent today. I tried lasering a dragon design on a knife handle. I lasered, painted and pulled the tape off after it dried but the design didnt stay in tact. Some of the tape stayed behind with the paint. When i tried pulling that part off 1/2 the paint from the design came with it. Tried it a few times with no luck. Used Laserpro C180 70% speed/ 60% power. Any suggestions

[Mike Null]

One method of paint filling is to use a syringe. On a small job like this that may be the answer.

[Larry Bratton]

I've posted this before, but I'll say it again. Piedmont Plastics Corp. makes a product they call Pflex. It is a 2mil polyester. It is intended as a clear laminate, but it makes a fantastic mask material. I buy it in precut sheets 24x36 (fits my laser table) for $2.50 a sheet. They will ship it anywhere, if you don't have a branch close by.

[Martin Boekers]

Larry,

I saw on their web page they have different options for Pflex.

I see you use the polyester, but calendered or non-calendered, overlaminate?

What do you use?


Thanks,

Marty


P Flex® Pressure Sensitive Film is a domestic brand, Piedmont Plastics labeled product that has many different applications. P-Flex comes in calendared and non-calendared vinyl, polyester, and overlaminate material that comes in either removable or permanent form. P-Flex has an excellent ability to be precisely cut and printed on, and special ordered in custom colors

[Larry Bratton]

Larry,

I saw on their web page they have different options for Pflex.

I see you use the polyester, but calendered or non-calendered, overlaminate?

What do you use?


Thanks,

Marty


P Flex® Pressure Sensitive Film is a domestic brand, Piedmont Plastics labeled product that has many different applications. P-Flex comes in calendared and non-calendared vinyl, polyester, and overlaminate material that comes in either removable or permanent form. P-Flex has an excellent ability to be precisely cut and printed on, and special ordered in custom colors
Martin:
I have been using the polyester because it is laser safe. I used it to laminate some printed banners over polypropylene a few days ago and it worked like a charm for that too. It has an adhesive back (obviously). I like it for paint mask because it won't let the paint wick up underneath it. I also kiss cut it to make a mask for sign painting also. I actually use it over PVC sheet or other substrates, vector it at like 5p, 100s and then paint after you weed it out. (I know, I know..PVC is a no no, but at low power and high speed, your only cutting through the mask anyway)

[Daniel Lee]

Martin:
I have been using the polyester because it is laser safe. I used it to laminate some printed banners over polypropylene a few days ago and it worked like a charm for that too. It has an adhesive back (obviously). I like it for paint mask because it won't let the paint wick up underneath it. I also kiss cut it to make a mask for sign painting also. I actually use it over PVC sheet or other substrates, vector it at like 5p, 100s and then paint after you weed it out. (I know, I know..PVC is a no no, but at low power and high speed, your only cutting through the mask anyway)

Do you use the removable or permanent form of the P-Flex? Will the low tack removable do the job?

[Joe Baker]

Larry, that will be the next thing i try. I appreciate the input and will report on the results.

I hate being a newbie to anything. I dont have much to contribute. If anyone wants to know anything about knives, survival gear and hiking equipment i am your man. Thx

[Larry Bratton]

Do you use the removable or permanent form of the P-Flex? Will the low tack removable do the job?
As far as I know it is removable-low tack. If you want some of what I use, just call Tim Hughes at 800-277-7898 in Charlotte and tell him you want some of what I use. The one I get is the only one they stock. The other stuff is special order but they produce it in their films division.