Slick - needs handling

[Todd Burch]

I picked up this head a few years ago. Don't remember what I paid, but it wasn't much. Its time has come to get handled.

The head is 3" wide, 14" long and 3/8" thick at the thickest part of the blade. The opening for the hole at the widest point is 1 1/8".

How long should the handle be for this size head, and what would be a good style?

Thanks, Todd

[Bill Houghton]

about 18" seems to be common. The retail handles have a knob at the nether end. I made a handle for mine, years ago, from a broken shovel handle; it's worked fine, though I must confess it's seen just limited use.

[george wilson]

They should have a wide knob on the end,as they were pushed with the shoulder. The rest of the shank is a bulged cylinder.

[John Schreiber]

I've never used one, but I would think that it would vary depending on it's purpose. If it's for use on boat frames, it's got to be relatively short so you can use it in crowded conditions. If it's going to be used for timber framing, maybe as long as a shovel handle.

[george wilson]

No,John,18" or 16" is about right.

[Todd Burch]

I think I'll go with 18" handle showing. Now, I need to go find some black locust or osage orange...

Approx. what diameter ball on the end? 2"?

[george wilson]

2" is o.k.,but it should be shaped like the pad on the top of a brace and bit,an oval when seen from he side view. A circle seen from the top. This gives a more flattened shape to rest on the shoulder,and a wider area to present to the shoulder.

[John Schreiber]

Do you hit a slick with a really big mallet, or do you just slide it taking advantage of its momentum?

[David Keller NC]

"Do you hit a slick with a really big mallet, or do you just slide it taking advantage of its momentum?

A slick is meant to be pushed (not hit with a mallet). However, every one I've ever seen had a socket tang, which should put up with mallet blows very well.

Regarding the wood selection, hickory, osage, etc... are certainly preferred, but there's nothing wrong with maple. I've seen quite a few of these that definitely have the original handle that are maple.

Here's a picture of a slick and handle:

http://www.caribooblades.com/slicksandskews.html

[Matt Hankins]

I have always used the knob at the rear of the handle as a steering wheel. While my slick came with a handle, if I was making one, I think I would look for a length that was comfortable with your front hand right at the chisel holding it flat against the surface of the material and your rear hand holding the knob and steering the chisel. I don't know if that makes sense. The knob therefore should be comfortable in the palm of your hand. The knob on my slick is mushroom shaped. The slick should not be struck. You'll split your new handle right down the middle. Make sure the back of the chisel is dead flat and use paring cuts to flatten broad surfaces, just like a large bench chisel.

[Paul Atkins]

I have some slicks to re-handle for a customer that wants apple wood for them. The search is on. Anyway, here is a picture of my slick and three of his. The top one is mine with a maple handle. I think another one is cherry and maybe anther is apple. Looks like the knobs have been sawn or broken off, but it gives you an idea of shape too. I have seen 5 or 6 slicks with the handle shape like the top one and only two like the second one. You might check timber framers sites and railroad tool buffs as these were used around here for train trestles and bridges.

[Todd Burch]

Thanks Paul. Those handles look a little on the short side, but do give a good representation of what I need to make.

Would the handle be epoxied in, or just fit tight? I saw one website where leather was wrapped over the socket and handle. Looked like a good idea - perhaps cut a few grooves into the bottom of the handle, then wrap with wet rawhide and let 'er dry and tighten up. Seems like it would keep the head from ever falling off on the "backstroke".

[Von Bickley]

Todd,

Post a picture when you get it finished.......

[Paul Atkins]

The longest one in the picture is 16" long from the socket. I think that is about average from the ones I've seen. Also one of these has a screw in the socket as a keeper - probably not original.

[harry strasil]

Slicks were normally used to pare timber framing tenons and scarfs to finished size.

[Gary Herrmann]

Todd, you don't need really hard handle material for a slick. I used some cutoff cherry I had. The handle shape isn't completely traditional, but it fits my hands well.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=103170&highlight=greenlee+slick

[Todd Burch]

Ah, very good point Gary. And, yours looks very nice too!

Me thinks I have some Honduran Mahogany that might fit the bill then... Maybe even some figured Maple... Actually, I have some Mulberry and some Pear too. And Walnut. And figured Bubinga. And old growth Heart Pine and Sweet Gum and Cherry. Well... crap. Another decision to have to make.

Maybe I'll just find the first short that is about the right length and use it.

Todd

[David Keller NC]

Tood - Pear would be an absolutely great handle for a slick (and better than the other woods you mentioned, in my opinion). One comment about keeping the handle in the tool - Slicks were typically a long item that would not fit conveniently in a tool box, so they were made to be taken apart. That's probably why they were made with socket tangs, though that's a much more expensive way to do it, and is typically only found in tools meant to be struck hard with a mallet.

However, please recognize that a razor-sharp slick with a socket handle and no fixing screw (I've never seen a fixing screw that was original, BTW) are extraordinarily dangerous. The steel head is very heavy, and when sharp, can drop off the end of the handle and easily amputate one or several toes on its way to the floor.

Probably no big deal if you're aware of that, but if you've other visitors to your shop (particularly kids), I'd epoxy it into place.

[Gary Herrmann]

David raises a good point. That's why I epoxied mine. 4 lbs of razor sharp 3" wide steel would dramatically affect my ability to count to 20, if I dropped it on my foot.

[harry strasil]

Another point to consider is a removable handle makes it one heck of a lot easier to sharpen when that time comes, if you get a good fit on the taper with extra room at the end for it to go on farther and you turn the slick up and tap the handle on the end like you would to set a slightly loose hammer head, you will never have a problem with the chisel coming off. I have seen old slicks with a hole in the handle also for a piece of rawhide string or regular string with a knot on it to keep it from pulling thru the hole and then a clove hitch around the small part of the socket. Another solution is when you are turning the taper on the handle, cut a groove in the taper for an "O" ring.