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harry strasil
05-15-2009, 4:35 PM
Warning 4.81 MB video.

Shop made Frame Saw, 4 1/2 ppi, blade is .043" thick from an old hand saw, width at teeth points (set) is .055".

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/th_ripping01.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/?action=view&current=ripping01.flv)

Chris Padilla
05-15-2009, 4:41 PM
Wouldn't that be more like resawing? :)

harry strasil
05-15-2009, 4:48 PM
Ripping, Resawing, same difference.

Chris Padilla
05-15-2009, 4:55 PM
I know, I know...while technically they are the same (from the wood's point of view, they certainly are!), I tend to think of them being segregated out as a "dimensional" specific cut....

harry strasil
05-15-2009, 5:07 PM
I just wanted to show that its easy to do and fast with the proper tool. LOL

The material is SYP from a packing crate.

Marc Casebolt
05-15-2009, 7:39 PM
Thanks for that harry,

I recently made a frame saw, but have only used it on cherry so far. I would one happy camper if it went that fast. I bought a blade from a catalog that I am not at all happy with. It does not stay sharp, but when it is sharp it cuts very well, just slow in that cherry. If I can figure out how to cut up an old saw for a new blade I will do that before I start my next project.

Marc

harry strasil
05-15-2009, 7:44 PM
Bull Snips will work, or if you know someone with a plasma torch

harry strasil
05-15-2009, 7:50 PM
The Best tooth configuration for ease of starting and sawing is 6 ppi Rip, with the teeth filed 90 ° on the front and a 3 to 5° fleam angle and very narrow set.

harry strasil
05-15-2009, 7:52 PM
I just set the about a third of the tooth on the end, then using copy paper covering the jaws of a smooth jawed vise, I squeeze the teeth to give the thickness of the paper for set.

Marc Casebolt
05-15-2009, 9:40 PM
Thanks for the info Harry. I'll give it a try soon.

Marc

Bob Easton
05-16-2009, 7:58 PM
Harry has it absolutely dead on about the saw filing, rake and set. I used his recommendations for my own resawing work and am very satisfied.

I started with a store bought blade and found it rather slow going. I then cut down a Disston D-8 rip blade and filed it to Harry's specs. It is now a "wicked sharp" saw.

However, mine work is a bit different in scale. I resaw lumber that is from 9 to 14 inches wide and 12 to 16 feet long. Boat planking is the reason.

Here's a tutorial: http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/?p=475

harry strasil
05-20-2009, 8:37 PM
This is why my saws seem to saw faster and follow the line easier. It doesn't flop around in the kerf and thus it takes out less material so seems to cut much faster. In case you wondered. But, don''t use them in wet or green wood. LOL

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/sawcut001.jpg