MDF unifence extension table

[Charlie North]

I need to build an TS extension table (wing) for a Unifence U50 and mobile base.

Heather Thompson kindly pointed me to torsion boxes.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-18-assembly-table-torsion-box/

I am fortunate to have a source that considers the 44" x27" laminated mdf pieces needed scrap.

My question is the extra trouble of the torsion box worthwhile in this case?

I'm also considering gluing two pieces together to form a 1.5" table.

[Cary Falk]

I just got done putting together an extension table for my unisaw. I used 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF for the top I put an aprin around the outside for a total thickness of 3.5". I divided the length into 3 spaces and put in 2 dividers. It seems plenty sturdy.

[Joel Earl]

I just got done putting together an extension table for my unisaw. I used 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF for the top I put an aprin around the outside for a total thickness of 3.5". I divided the length into 3 spaces and put in 2 dividers. It seems plenty sturdy.


Ditto except no dividers ... edge banding and done with it.

Matter of fact theres one done the same way I copied idea from 300 feet away and he's had it on his saw at least 10 years. He's a mobile based saw guy and it gets bumped and moved often, and is also used for assembly table. ;)

[Jim O'Dell]

I did build mine as a torsion box. Either way should be just fine. If you want to be extra sure, use some 1 1/2" steel angle iron on the bottom. That should keep it flat. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

Even doubled 3/4" MDF over a 27" span will need a lot of supporting ribs to avoid sag down the road. A torsion box could eliminate the need for cross braces. If you forgo the torsion box approach, I would use a single piece of MDF to save weight and add a supporting rib structure of some type of hardwood. My router tables, both 7/8" and 1-3/8" thick MDF have no span over 12" without support. Previous versions all sagged within the year. I'm in SoCal and your weather/shop environment could have a different effect.

[Charlie North]

Thanks for your replies and sharing your experiences.

I don't have a brad nailer (as used in the WW video) so have been considering other designs.

[Mike Heidrick]

I made one for my old unifence table. Two sheets of 3/4" MDF and then just 1.5" thick and 2" wide of red oak edge banding. Used laminate veneer on the top across it all. Worked perfectly. If i remember right there is a steel cross bar support before the legs on the unifence table correct?

[Arthur Travers]

You can use the Mr. Sawdust method. Epoxy 3/4" by 1/4" steel bars between
the MDF and glue. Inserts every 12" should be ample...Made my router
table in this manner with 3/4" oak edging and formica on both sides..Doubt if
it will ever warp..

[Charlie North]

It occurs to me that with Cary's method drawers could be put in!


. If i remember right there is a steel cross bar support before the legs on the unifence table correct?

Tubing runs on each side of the legs across the bottom of the table. Unless I'm missing something, other than that and some form of attachment to the TS, the table must support itself and the fence.

Mr. Sawdust, eh, Arthur? I googled that and see he was a RAS man. I'm not sure how much even 1/4" flat stock would help?

Here's a description using tubing instead but along the back of the table only.

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/fence_compare.pdf

[Andy Bardowell]

Charlie that's one where you'll say to yourself how did I do without it before?

[Arthur Travers]

The stock is placed on edge inserted into dados in both pieces...then epoxied..
Don't think you will be able to bend the steel bars in this manner..