Drawer slide w/ face frame question

[Doug Shepard]

I've got a hardware question for 2 shop cabinets that I'm getting ready to start cutting cacrcass parts for and want ball beariing slides on the drawers. One wont have any face frame and I've done slides on that type before. But the other has a frame and aside from the overwhelming choices in slide brand/style, etc. I notice that there are also extra brackets required for use with face frames. This will be my first try at slides with a face frame.
- Do I need the brackets? Or can I just glue/brad a filler strip on the inside walls to bring the slides out where they will clear the frame?

[Brian D Anderson]

- Do I need the brackets? Or can I just glue/brad a filler strip on the inside walls to bring the slides out where they will clear the frame?

You can most definitely use filler strips. I've done it a few times. A good tip is to make your face frame width such that you can use a standard size filler piece. For example, if you have 3/4 plywood case, make your face frame 1 1/4", so just need a 1/2" filler . . . or something like that . . .

-Brian

[Joe Scharle]

We all pad them out per instruction sheet included in the package. And as said, size your parts to use standard pieces. I use scrap 1/2" ply to mount the cabinet part. Buy your slides and read the instruction sheet before you cut the first piece of lumber and it'll will all come together, neatly.

[Bill Huber]

I did may shop cabinets a little different then a normal cabinet. I put face frames on but the face frame is flush with the inside of the cabinet. Then when I set them next to each other I put a spacer in between just to keep them straight with each other.

I used full pull out slides (22") on all the drawers, I got them from here.

http://www.uniquedrawerboxes.com/ProductType.aspx?product_type_id=135


http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/80076089

[glenn bradley]

I use filler strips as it makes me more comfortable. The front and back clips work fine and I have furnishings that use them that are years old and still work great. I just like filler strips.

[Doug Shepard]

.... A good tip is to make your face frame width such that you can use a standard size filler piece. For example, if you have 3/4 plywood case, make your face frame 1 1/4", so just need a 1/2" filler . . . or something like that . . .

-Brian

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing except I'll probably have to go a 1/16th shy on the frame pieces to account for the undersized ply thicknesses.
For right now I'm just doing the carcasses. I'll size and make the drawers later after I get some slides. The shims just seemed like they'd be a lot simpler than fooling around with the brackets,
Thanks folks.

[Ed Peters]

looked like it might be a chore, but now, I use them all the time and installation couldn't be easier. The first thing to note is that I place the glides on the bottom of the sides. They are installed so that there is about 1/8" clearance between the drawer bottom and the faceframe when assembled. Also, I prefer to use the full extension +1" variation glide available at www.outwatercatalogs.com (http://www.outwatercatalogs.com). After fastening the drawer portion to the drawer box, I begin on the cabinet installation. I roll the case onto it's back and holding the case portion of the glide in position, I send a screw into the faceframe. After all the glide sections are installed this far, I fasten a rear clip on each. Starting with the bottom most drawer first, engage the glides and send the drawer in to it's full depth to center the roller section. Pull the drawer out far enough to get a pair of sticks (same thickness) between the back of the drawer and the front of the faceframe. Let the drawer rest like this and you will find that your rear brackets are in exactly the right location. Send in some screws and move on to the next drawer.

Ed