countersinking Hardboard

[Matt Fuller]

Hi there.
I am making a board game for a friend and he has requested that it be made out of hardboard/pegboard. This game uses marbles and I need to add just a little bit of a countersink for the marbles to sit in. I've tried using a drill bit counter sinker but all that happens is that the hardboard is just torn up. Any idea on how to make a clean countersink on some holes in a pegboard? Would an accurate router and a countersink bit be the way to go?
Thanks,
Matt

[Todd Burch]

I like to use ASSY screws - they have a built in nib under the flat head that makes it own countersink as the screw is driven. Self tapping too. Single step. Done.

Todd

[Tom Veatch]

Matt, are you using tempered or untempered hardboard?

I've used regular 5-fluted countersinks from the Borg (similar to this (http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1242357042/ref=sr_nr_p_cutting_angle-bin_4?ie=UTF8&rs=256259011&bbn=256259011&rnid=1247114011&rh=n%3A16310091%2Cn%3A%2116310161%2Cn%3A383598011% 2Cn%3A256259011%2Cp%5Fmaterial%5Ftype%3AHigh%20Spe ed%20Steel%2Cp%5Fnumber%5Fof%5Fflutes-bin%3A4%2Cp%5Fcutting%5Fangle-bin%3A82.00%20Degrees)) on tempered hardboard and, IIRC, there was a little fuzz around the edge. I really wasn't too concerned about the surface quality at the bottom since that would be covered by the screw head. But with tempered hardboard and a drill press, I don't recall the surface quality being too bad. Untempered hardboard would be a completely different story, I'm sure.

[glenn bradley]

If your pegboard is not service tempered the fuzzies are going to be a problem. It machines like many layers of thin paper; difficult at best. If your friend insists on pegboard, have him pay for some service tempered 1/4" pegboard. This may give you the most chance for success. You may even want to consider some of the plastic pegboard stock that is out now.

As to countersinks for this sort of material, these (http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=32308&cat=3,41306,41328) worked well for me but, I was countersinking for screws so I didn't really pay attention to the inside of the countersunk area ;-)

[Dan Forman]

I second Glenn's suggested countersinks, cleanest of any I've used, though they are likely to leave a small ridge on the edge of the sunk area that can be removed with a sharp chisel or sandpaper.

Dan

[Scott Schwake]

How about one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5913&filter=marble
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5912&filter=marble

[Jimmy Coull]

I second the router bit, if you don't use the Rockler bit you can use core box bits with a plunge router.

Good Luck,
Jimmy

[Paul Atkins]

I'd try one of those sintered carbide burrs which might have to be run at a fairly high speed to act sort of as a sanding tool.

[Joe Scharle]

I just tried this in some scrap 'tempered' hardboard. Cuts clean. From Lee Valley. BTW, you can hone the edge on this one a little.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/drilling/44j2101s1.jpg

[Myk Rian]

Use a grinding stone.
http://4custom.com/e/Cimg4220.jpg

[Matt Fuller]

Thanks Tom. The stuff my friend gave me is untempered. But I have some tempered in my attic. I'm going to try a little piece before I have him buy some more.
Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it.
Matt

[Matt Fuller]

Hi there Joe. Thanks for the advice on those Lee Valley counter sinks. Those are going to be the first items I buy if the tools I have don't work. Thanks for trying those out for me on your scrap piece.
Thanks again,
Matt

[Matt Fuller]

Hi Myk,
Thanks for that advice. I'm going to try that tomorrow to see how it comes out. I'll let you know and I might some more questions tomorrow.
Thanks,
Matt