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View Full Version : CorrosionX - has anyone tried it?



Dan McLaughlin
08-10-2004, 8:03 PM
"Stop rust and corrosion in its tracks". Ran across it looking for alternatives to TopCote and Boeshield T-9. I'm aware of the pros and cons of both of those products. I've tried TopCote and will probably try Boeshield unless I can get some good reviews on this product. Thanks

Jim Becker
08-10-2004, 8:29 PM
Dan, be real careful that any "different" preparation you look at is silicone free...not a good thing to have in your shop as it can be a pain in the tukus relative to finishes.

Dan McLaughlin
08-10-2004, 8:56 PM
Yup - I was aware of that. Have done some reading on some other boards and someone mentioned that CorrosionX contains "proprietary siloxane". Hmmmmm... sounds close enough like silicone to make me concerned

Dave Anderson NH
08-11-2004, 5:56 AM
Your suspicions are corect. Poly dimethyl siloxane is one of the varieties of silicone. Anything with the name siloxane in it is a silicone or a silicone based compound and can interfere with a finish. I'd avoid it for woodworking equipment.

Paul Berendsohn
08-11-2004, 8:29 AM
Yupp, I've used it many times in an industrial environment and it does work very very well, but I wouldn't go near it for your application. Boeshield is excellent.

Bob Marino
08-11-2004, 9:17 AM
Dan,

I've tried both TopCote and Boeshield and have found Boeshield to be a better product for preventing rust. It doesn't give you that smooth and slippery finish as TopCote or a wax might, but offers the best protection from rust that I have found. The mags ran a test recently and also top rated Boeshield.

Bob

Chris Padilla
08-11-2004, 10:07 AM
Just top the Boeshield T-9 with paste wax or in my case, I use Slip-It. Slip-It does poorly with rust but on top of T-9, it is nice and slick.

Michael Ballent
08-11-2004, 5:50 PM
I'm with Chris on this one... I use T-9 for rust protection, but instread of using paste wax I spray on TopCote. I find that it's much slicker than paste wax and easier to apply. No rust on my machines since going this route.

Bill Bryant
10-29-2007, 11:58 PM
Yup - I was aware of that. Have done some reading on some other boards and someone mentioned that CorrosionX contains "proprietary siloxane". Hmmmmm... sounds close enough like silicone to make me concerned

With a little digging I learned that it is RejeX, a sister product designed to be used like car wax, that has the "proprietary siloxane." CorrosionX does not have this chemical in it.

I bought a spray bottle of CorrosionX this week and I've put it on my table saw. I'll try to post a comment or two after doing some test pieces and putting on some finishes, etc. Right now all I can say is that this is definitely some kind of seriously different anti-rust formula from the standard thin oil and wax variety. It goes on metal quite differently--very clingy, takes time to smear it all around because it grabs the iron so tenaciously.

Leland Berry
10-30-2007, 5:48 AM
:eek: Anyone know how long the suggested products last ? &/or
where I can buy--Iron tops are becoming a nightmare for me.
I've tried parafin, gun oil, WD-40---probably all the wrong
things---nothing works against "staining", i.e. leaving oak
lying on the table or a coffee cup leaves marks. I've used
2000 grit sandpaper to clean them but "ghosts" of the stain
remain, seemingly deep into the iron grain.:confused: HELP--it seems
like I fight this problem about every 2 months---Thanks-thanks
a thousand thanks----

David Giles
10-30-2007, 9:23 AM
I've been using CorrosionX for several years on WW equipment with no finishing ill effects. But I also topcoat with Boeshield. In our humid Houston environment, a twice yearly clean and coat seems to be sufficient.

Gary Keedwell
10-30-2007, 10:32 AM
Is anybody familiar with this product?http://www.allproducts.com/sup005/ballistol/p01.html
It is on another thread here at SMC.
Gary

Mick Zelaska
10-30-2007, 1:25 PM
A little history of Ballistol:

In 1874, Friedrich Wilhelm Klever, an attorney with interest in economy, founded the Klever Company” in Cologne, Germany. He began producing oils and greases from coal and eventually bought a coal mine so he would not run out of raw materials. At the turn of the century the imperial German Army (the Wehrmacht) began to look for an all-around oil. The idea was to maintain the metallic parts of the soldier’s rifle but also to protect the wooden stocks and his leather gear. The soldier was to use the same oil for the treatment of minor wounds, sores and scratches. Friedrich’s son, Dr. Helmut Klever, had become a professor of chemistry at the Technical University of Karlsruhe. He set out to develop what the Army wanted. In 1904 he succeeded to produce a special oil which he named BALLISTOL, from the word ballistic and the Latin word for oil, ‘oleum’. Thus the descriptive meaning of the word BALLISTOL is: ballistic oil. It soon became obvious that the new wonder Oil had truly amazing capabilities. The Army tested it and adopted it in 1905 and it stayed in use until 1945. But the word had spread and within a decade hunters, boaters, motorists, hikers, mountaineers and outdoorsmen in Germany, Austria and Switzerland convened to the new miracle oil.

FIREARMS - Cleans & dissolves traces of copper, lead, brass, zinc, & tombac. Lubricates & protects firearms, lock, stock & barrel. Forms a film that protects against rust. Will never gum-up or harden. Ideal for pistol grips, & rifle stocks.

BLACK POWDER - Dissolves black powder residues. Emulsifies with water. Mildly alkaline, neutralizes acids. Excellent patch lube.

LEATHER - Use on boots, shoes, gloves, holsters, slings, & saddles. Protects leather against water. Keeps leather soft & pliable, will darken lighter colors. Do not use on suede.

KNIVES & TOOLS - Lubricates, cleans, & protects metal, plastic, rubber, & wood. Outstanding penetrating oil, creeps into the finest cracks, loosens nuts & bolts. Also use as a cutting/boring oil (20:1).

MARINE - Use in motor compartments, on joints, links, wire pulls, & around battery terminals. Protects electrical contacts. Beautifies faded gel coats. Lubricates zippers, push buttons, & winches. Great for fishing rods, reels, & tackle. Protects Aluminum, prevents pitting.

ROAD & TRAIL - Lubricates autos, motorcycles, bicycles, rollerblades, skateboards, skis, & sports equipment. Protects all camping gear.

I use it to clean my firearmss as well as treat the tops of all my shop equipment and do not have a rust problem. I use it to break in holsters and waterproof my boots. Smells a little odd but you get used to it. It's not toxic and bio-degradable but would not recommend it as a dessert topping! It's cheap and it works -

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=164428

Bill Wyko
10-30-2007, 3:09 PM
Dan, be real careful that any "different" preparation you look at is silicone free...not a good thing to have in your shop as it can be a pain in the tukus relative to finishes.
Silicone disaster. I had built a customer a rosewood speaker box then clear coated it with Varathane. I set it 3 rooms away with a cloth tent over it to keep dust off. Later, one of my installers sprayed a silicone spray into the boot in the door jam to free some wires. Almost instantly, the clear coat on the bottom of the piece had so many fish eyes that the piece was ruined. I had to sand off the finish and recoat it days later. silicone is the enemy of finishes.:(

Bill Bryant
10-30-2007, 5:56 PM
Silicone disaster. I had built a customer a rosewood speaker box then clear coated it with Varathane. I set it 3 rooms away with a cloth tent over it to keep dust off. Later, one of my installers sprayed a silicone spray into the boot in the door jam to free some wires. Almost instantly, the clear coat on the bottom of the piece had so many fish eyes that the piece was ruined. I had to sand off the finish and recoat it days later. silicone is the enemy of finishes.:(

I agree that silicone is a disaster around wood finishes, but CorrosionX (not RejeX) does not contain silicone according to the manufacturer.