Zero-Clearance Plate for Circ Saw

[Kev Godwin]

I was thinking about attaching some hardboard to the bottom of one of my circular saws and tilting the blade thru the hardboard while running. I was thinking the result would be similar to a zero-clearance throat plate I use on my TS.

Here's my questions:

Would this prove useful to prevent or reduce chipout on oak plywood or plastic laminate covered countertops?

Have others done something similar or have any comments pro or con on this idea? Thx.
Kev

[Don Abele]

Kev, I don't have a ZCI on my circular saw but my Milwaukee jigsaw came with a ZCI-like attachment. On plywood that little piece of plastic makes a big difference.

In the past I've used tape along the lines to reduce tear-out on ply and melamine. It works but with varying degrees of satisfactory results (probably user induced).

The EZ folks have a ZCI insert for the base that runs along their track. While I don't own one (yet - order coming soon Dino), I've seen the videos and it appears to make a huge difference.

At the very least, it can't hurt (other than reducing depth of cut). Just be safe plunging the blade through.

Be well,

Doc

[Dino Makropoulos]

I was thinking about attaching some hardboard to the bottom of one of my circular saws and tilting the blade thru the hardboard while running. I was thinking the result would be similar to a zero-clearance throat plate I use on my TS.

Here's my questions:

Would this prove useful to prevent or reduce chipout on oak plywood or plastic laminate covered countertops?

Have others done something similar or have any comments pro or con on this idea? Thx.
Kev

Very useful BUT you have to align the blade to the base.
The smart base can give you an idea to make your own.
Make sure that you open the base for the guard to retract.
If you have any chipping, add some painters tape to the base right next to the blade.
The idea is to apply pressure right at the teeth.
A flat ZCI works good but a flexible with downward pressure ZCI works much better.

Good luck.

[Greg Hines, MD]

In one of the magazines they did that. They also made sure that it was a square or rectangular, wide enough to center the blade. This allowed you to run it against a straight edge from either side, with consistency.

One of these days, I will do it to mine. In any event, make some gauges to set it easier.

Doc

[Kev Godwin]

I can see where making such a base so that the blade is centered would sure be handy at times. But if I gave up that option of cutting in either direction, couldn't I just trim the zero base to fit the factory base? That would give me the same result as the original factory alignment.

Would using something other than hardboard be better for flexibility which Dino mentioned? I hadn't considered flexibility to hold the surface tight. Hardboard was just my first thought. Plexiglass? Slick plastic?
Kev

[Randal Stevenson]

This would be useful and prevent chipping on flat surfaces. I have seen it done before years back. I also know people get similar results with a proper sawboard. Dino uses an ac-3 on larger or left blade saws, instead of an insert, that would help with the other side and a sawboard. But, what Dino's system does, that most people don't think about, is allow the gaurd to function. One could do that with a piece of hardboard, but I think the new UHMW setup that Dino recently mentioned, may be an improvement, that you might look into (need verses budget).

If you do just do the hardboard, remember to be leary about your gaurd and safety.:)

[Dino Makropoulos]

I can see where making such a base so that the blade is centered would sure be handy at times. But if I gave up that option of cutting in either direction, couldn't I just trim the zero base to fit the factory base? That would give me the same result as the original factory alignment.

Would using something other than hardboard be better for flexibility which Dino mentioned? I hadn't considered flexibility to hold the surface tight. Hardboard was just my first thought. Plexiglass? Slick plastic?
Kev

Ken,
You can use any materials and apply the tape (masking-painters)
where the blade cuts thru the ZCI.
Start with 2 layers of tape and add more if you need better results.


Good luck.

[Jason Hallowell]

I made one using slick plastic from a cutting board, and it works great. I made mine for the purpose of stiffening the base and creating an edge that was square to the blade, because the original base was terrible. The ZCI feature was just an added bonus. Between the ZCI base, masking tape along the cut, and using a sharp blade, I can almost eliminate blowout in most materials. Older more brittle melamine covered counters will still have some chipping.

The only downside I've noticed is the reduced cutting depth. Make sure you cut out a section for the guard to come through, unless you no longer want a functioning blade guard. Also, getting it square to the blade was a PITA, but well worth all the fussing.