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Byron Trantham
08-09-2004, 5:06 PM
I have 30 gal, vertical tank, Crapsman compressor. How often should I be "draining the tank?" I finally did it [don't ask how long I've had the unit] and about 1 cup of water came out. :eek: The rusty puddle was about 20" in diameter spread across the concrete floor. :mad:

The drain valve is very hard to get to. Any reason why I couldn't attach a brass pipe extension and route it out ot where I can get to it? Also thought about making a pedestal to raise it up off the floor so I could put a "drain pan" down to catch the mess AND have easier access to the valve.

Any thoughts?

[I need a IR 60 gal unit so I can really wash the floor! :D ]

Jim Becker
08-09-2004, 5:14 PM
Yes, you can replace the hard-to-get-at stop cock with an elbow and short section of pipe...I did that on my IR because it would be impossible to get to the thing otherwise. (Mine is bolted to the floor, not on a pallet. I put a regular ball valve on it to easily blow it out. That way you can do it frequently without draining all your air. (I leave my compressor charged 24-7) If you're really feeling rich, there are automagical valves available to do it for you!

Byron Trantham
08-09-2004, 5:28 PM
I am familiar with a ball valve, I have them in my in-ground sprinkler system. What should I be looking for in this application? I think the pipe that will be comming out of the bottom of thank will be 1/8". Big Box carry something that would work? McMaster Carr?

Thanks for your input. Your solution is exactly what I wanted to do. I just don't know plumbing that well. :confused:

Jim Becker
08-09-2004, 5:30 PM
I used itty bitty black pipe from the 'borg...I think it's 1/4" NPT, same as the fitting in there now. The ball valve has the straight handle covered with colored pastic, also from the 'borg. Don't forget to wrap the threads with teflon tape...

Jim Ketron
08-09-2004, 5:35 PM
I would sug to drain it monthly and check the filter.
Jim

Byron Trantham
08-09-2004, 5:39 PM
I used itty bitty black pipe from the 'borg...I think it's 1/4" NPT, same as the fitting in there now. The ball valve has the straight handle covered with colored pastic, also from the 'borg. Don't forget to wrap the threads with teflon tape...
You Da Man!!! I went out to McMaster and found exactly what you describe. I'll be at HD tomorrow. To quote an old TV shop, "I love it when a plan comes together!" :D

Steve Jenkins
08-09-2004, 6:55 PM
if you want to make draining even easier run the 1/4" pipe up the side of the tank then put the ball valve on it and a piece of hose to direct the water into a container. Height doesn't make any difference since you hace all that air pressure forcing the water out. Steve

Jim Becker
08-09-2004, 6:58 PM
if you want to make draining even easier run the 1/4" pipe up the side of the tank then put the ball valve on it and a piece of hose to direct the water into a container. Height doesn't make any difference since you hace all that air pressure forcing the water out.
That's why we pay you the big bucks, Steve...a most excellent suggestion. I'll add that having a second valve down low might be a good idea "just in case" the thang needs to be drained when not under pressure. Not a big investment to do that...

Byron Trantham
08-09-2004, 7:37 PM
That's why we pay you the big bucks, Steve...a most excellent suggestion.

Here, Here!!!! :D :D

Let's see now, I could route the pipe to the sump hole..... :cool: ;)

Joe Scarfo
08-09-2004, 11:40 PM
I put a 1/4" fitting on the bottom of mine w/ a 90 elbow to which I screwed a 15" section of hose. The hose is has a quick release fitting to which I put one of those blow guns. When ever I remember, I blow the water out of the shop door. The benefit of this is the water collects in the fittings and hose, not within the tank.

The blow gun allows me to easily drain the tank and not even bend over to drain it out....

Good Luck w/ your solution.

Joe in Tampa....

Tyler Howell
08-10-2004, 9:23 PM
Don't forget to check/change the oil and tighten the belts Every 3000 miles or six months of regular use.(compressor oil) Folks think that stuff will last forever:eek: . You get blow bye in compressors too and water can contaminate your oil.

I also put a remote ball valve on my oil drain so I could change it without standing on my head.;)

Steve Clardy
08-10-2004, 9:49 PM
I have two 60 gallon 3hp compressors to maintain, hooked together. They have ball valves with hoses, with a drain pan to catch the water and junk. I removed the original petcocks as they would accumilate the rust and junk and plug up the small hole, then would not drain.
Steve

Aaron Montgomery
08-10-2004, 9:50 PM
I've done this same mod to my compressor as others here have described. You can check out the description on my homepage if you like. (Check my profile)

http://home.insightbb.com/~apmonte/Graphics/WoodShop_27.jpg

aurelio alarcon
08-11-2004, 1:26 AM
You don't want to use black pipe if at all possible. Black pipe, also known as black varnish pipe, is manufactured for gas. It will rust a lot sooner than galvanized pipe. Galvanized pipe is manufactured for water, therefore, it is more rust resistant than the black pipe.

Byron Trantham
08-11-2004, 8:27 AM
You don't want to use black pipe if at all possible. Black pipe, also known as black varnish pipe, is manufactured for gas. It will rust a lot sooner than galvanized pipe. Galvanized pipe is manufactured for water, therefore, it is more rust resistant than the black pipe.

Don't worry about that; I intend to use brass all the way through. :D

aurelio alarcon
08-11-2004, 11:53 AM
excellent choice!