Cabinet Table Saw Advice

[Todd Young]

Looking for advice on Cabinet Table Saws.

I currently own a 1.5 HP Craftsman contractor saw. I struggle with fence alignment, blade changes, throat plate issues, power when cutting harder woods, and a few others. Most of my issues are self inflicted from not taking better care of the saw when I first got it. I was just getting into woodworking when I bought this saw (first and only table saw I've owned) and did not tune it regularly as I should have. I've gotten better since I bought it in '99.

My shop's my garage and I'm sure I'll need to upgrade the available power to handle a bigger machine. That'll be left to the electricity professionals.

The materials I'll be working with will be mostly Pine, Maple, Walnut, Cherry & Hickory with maybe some minor work with Mahogany, Bubinga and Zebra wood. Majority of what I do will be with A faced plywood for cabinets and such. I'm currently taking on kitchen cabinet project (either maple or hickory) and would like advice on cabinet saws (brands, HP and phase) if you'd care to solicit some.

Brands: Looking into Saw Stop, Powermatic and Delta Unisaw. Any pros/cons from ones that have used these before that may make one a better choice than the other? Saw Stop is sitting at the top of my list for the added safety feature, even at the higher $$.
HP: 3HP or 5HP? I detailed most of the woods I'll be working with so that may help with how much HP I should go after. I'm thinking 3HP will be suffice.
Phase: 1PH or 3PH? I know very little about phase conversion, but I've heard there is a phase converter that can allow you to get the advantage of more HP at less of a draw? Is that a correct assumption or do I have no idea what I'm talking about?
This is only my second day at this site. I've gotten a lot of info from just perusing current and past posts.

Thanks for reading, sorry for the long post, but I'm glad I found this site.

[Tony De Masi]

Todd, first let me welcome you to the Creek. You have found a great site here. You will probably find the responses you get as to which TS to get will have a direct link to what the poster is currently using, but not in all cases. That being said I will throw my hat in the ring for the PM2000.:D
As for horsepower I think that any of the 3HP models you choose will give you more than adequate results unless of course that 5HP model is just screaming your name.

Good luck in your quest and again welcome to the Creek.

Tony

p.s. - If you really enjoy it here please consider becoming a member.

[Dave Avery]

Hi Todd,

3 HP is all you'll ever need. I got away with 1 3/4 for a long time.....

3 phase is a pain.....

With respect to brand, they're all good saws. I wouldn't buy one without a riving knife, but that's just me. Whether the Sawstop safety mechanism is worth the extra price is between you and your wallet. I love my Sawstop PCS.....

[Chuck Isaacson]

If safety is what you want have you have the money to do so then go for the Saw Stop. Otherwise either of the other 2 will do just fine. Might I recommend the General into the mix as well. Either the 650(left tilt) or the 350(right tilt). An excellent saw. Keep in mind that Grizzly makes about the biggest bang for your buck table saw if you wanted to save a little money. There are lots of people here that love the ones that they have.As for power, I would probably go with 3HP and stay away from 3 phase, that is unless you are doing some serious cutting of very thick or hard stock on a regular basis. Make sure that you let us know what you decide, and of course post some pics...

Chuck

[Rick Gifford]

Any of those saws would be great. I just suggest you look at each one and see which one you like the overall style of. Sometimes you just dont care for a design, oher times everything just clicks.

I was going to get the JET XACTA, and then the Powermatic 2000. But had supply issues and ended up with the SawStop. Absolutely no regret so far. If I need to switch back from a dado blade or regular, and back again, it can get reduntant changing the brakes on the SawStop. A minor inconvenience but just an extra step you have to do.

I liked the fit and finish on the JET, PM and SawStop.

The PM had its own built in mobile base saving some money on that accessory.

If you are seriously leaning towards the SawStop for the safety feature that is fine. Its an excellent saw and extremely well made. Cost more money, but at least you get a great saw instead of a so-so saw with a fancy safety feature.

Stay with single phase. You dont want the extra expense of a phase converter. I believe you only get 2/3 power from that, but I may be wrong.

[Don Bullock]

Welcome to Sawmill Creek.


Looking for advice on Cabinet Table Saws.

I currently own a 1.5 HP Craftsman contractor saw. I struggle with fence alignment, blade changes, throat plate issues, power when cutting harder woods, and a few others. Most of my issues are self inflicted from not taking better care of the saw when I first got it...

Todd, don't be so hard on yourself. If your Craftsman is anything like the one I used to have, it's the saw -- not you! I dumped my Craftsman a couple of years ago and bought a SawStop. It's a decision I don't regret at all. Since then they are offering two more versions of their saws. Buy the one that fits your projects, present and future, and don't look back.

[Rick Gifford]

Todd, don't be so hard on yourself. If your Craftsman is anything like the one I used to have, it's the saw -- not you!

Man, Don is exactly right!

I first tablesaw was a Black & Decker. Ok if you just want to cut some 2X4's pieces off.

Unbelievable how better your woodworking life will be once you get a decent saw and solid fence.

[Todd Young]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I had thought that a 3HP/1PH would fill the need, but wanted to get some educated feedback before I started to test models out and really narrow down the field. I didn't want to buy something then find out afterwards that I should've given the higher HP or 3PH a go. The 3PH kind of intimidated me since I had very little knowledge about it, but from what most said, it may not be worth the hassle.

I was not aware of the issue with the brake on the SS when changing to a dado, but it sounds like a minor process given the benefit. That'll be a non factor as far as the purchase choice if it gets to that. My wife loves the idea that I'm thinking of the SS, mainly because her Grandpa lost the tips of four fingers from a TS. One of the issues I have now with the Craftsman is that it's a little challenging to change to a dado or to any other blade because the opening to get to the arbor is pretty narrow.

I did want to upgrade to one that has a good riving knife as well. The Craftsman has one that was way too much trouble to use, so I ended up taking it off and not using it, which proves to be a hassle in itself at times. It seemed to get more in the way of my outfeed than more of it's intended function when I did use it. Couldn't get it to stay in position to work correctly no matter what I tried. The Craftsman was a great starter TS.....didn't make me take out a second morgage and led me to understand that I love working with wood.

I have looked at some Grizzly models, but not much more than that and the three I mentioned.

I also liked the wheeled base of the PM. With the shop/garage being tight on space, that's a good perk and a mark in the pro column.

I'm still a few months away from the purchase (still need to save a bit more), so I plan to start testing models and see which one is the best fit. Once I get it delivered, I'll adsvise how it turned out and send some pics.

Thanks for all your input. Helped me at least know I'm looking at good models. Now I just have to make a decision.

Tony, on the member comment, I'm looking into what levels there are and will see what fits. Definitely a lot of good info flowing here.

Todd

[George Morris]

Todd Sawstop is coming out with a new model this summer ,the distributors are taking orders now for them. Check out there web site it is on it. I believe price is around 2800. George