Saw stop with router table

[John Coloccia]

I'm looking to put a router table in the extension table of my saw stop. I don't like the Incra rails/fence....I like the saw stop's. Anyhow, if you own a saw stop with the extension table, do you think I could just route through the table, stick a woodpecker in there, and call it a day? Is the stock SS table stiff enough, with enough support?

Inquiring minds want to know.

[Andy Sowers]

I have the PCS version of the SS... my extension table is ~24"x37" (I have the 36" rails). The extension table itself is laminated ply (appears to be BB), but its only 3/4" thick. Although its reinforced underneath with crosspieces, I dont think there's enough support to prevent sagging of the table with a router hanging in the middle. Plus, you'd almost certainly have to cut some of those crosspieces to accomodate the router setup.

I'd be more inclined to replace the entire extension table with a custom table that would replace the existing one. You'll still need to consider putting enough support under the new table so that you dont get table sag...

[Rick Gifford]

John that is exactly the setup I have. I posted some pics at this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=90165

My extention table is the 36". I have found the rails to be quite strong in supporting the router lift etc.

However recently I have had some movement where the extension table has dropped just a tad where it connects to the saw table. I have re-aligned it but what I found is the bolts had vibrated loose just enough to allow the sag. Easy fix, but that is the only issue I have run into.

[John Coloccia]

Nice, Rick. It sounds like I can probably just go ahead and install it. If it starts acting up later on, I can always replace the top later.

Did you add any additional support underneath the extension? It's tough to tell if the drawers are supporting the table, hanging under the table, or just sitting on the ground.

[alex grams]

Thats what I did, with the jessem lift. In hindsight I should have built a larger cabinet under it, but I am very happy with what I have.

[David Winer]

John, if you want to get your router table custom made I suggest that you consider Justin at Woodpecker justink@woodpeck.com . He is making one for me from our conversation and my sketch.

He tells me that he makes many of these. I found him quite responsive and knowledgable.

[Rick Gifford]

Nice, Rick. It sounds like I can probably just go ahead and install it. If it starts acting up later on, I can always replace the top later.

Did you add any additional support underneath the extension? It's tough to tell if the drawers are supporting the table, hanging under the table, or just sitting on the ground.

John, I did not add any additional support under the table, and the boxes/drawers are mounted directly to the underside of the extension table. So the weight of the whole thing is supported by the extension top.

I had some concern at first if it was a wise decision to do that, but so far so good.

[glenn bradley]

This has been discussed many times. I would just go ahead and add the support ribs now instead of having to retrofit them later. JMHO. ;-)

[John Fuda]

Rick and Alex - I'm getting ready to convert the extension table on my Sawstop Contractor w/36" Fence System to a router table, as you all have on your SS's.

I know this thread's a little dated, but it still seemed one of the most relevant to my question since it had two solid examples of SS's with router tables.

My question is, how well does the miter track work with the rails blocking either end... I assume fine for anything with relatively fixed mounting, like a featherboard,, but any jigs that could potentionally be stopped from sliding by the rails would present a problem. I also assume that - with the rails blocking either end of the track - thak only miter tack could be used becuase with T-Track, there'd be no way of getting bolts and such into the track.

[John Coloccia]

Double hijack :D

Update on my install. I replaced the SS table with a lamination of 3/4" MDF and 1/2" phenolic ply, and then installed a 3 1/4HP Triton on a Pinnacle router plate. I even used the original metal SawStop cross brace that came with the original top.

And....after several months, it's still sagging where the table meets the cast top. I think I'm simply going to add an inboard leg to keep it from sagging. The Triton is HEAVY, and this may not be an issue for those using smaller routers. I have to say I was very surprised, though, as 1 1/4" of wood plus a steel cross member wouldn't have struck me as particularly easy to warp, but it's amazing what time and pressure will do. YMMV, but in my case Glen had it nailed.

I don't know how Rick designed his box, but I suspect he inadvertently (or maybe intentionally) significantly stiffened the top at the same time.

Other than that, I realigned the rear trunion and fence yesterday, and am proud to report that my SawStop CONTRACTOR saw is now cutting to an accuracy of +,- .001" along a 2' length of mahogony. It's not that I need that, but that's pretty impressive nonetheless. When a piece doesn't fit, it's definitely NOT my saw's fault!

[John Coloccia]

Rick and Alex - I'm getting ready to convert the extension table on my Sawstop Contractor w/36" Fence System to a router table, as you all have on your SS's.

I know this thread's a little dated, but it still seemed one of the most relevant to my question since it had two solid examples of SS's with router tables.

My question is, how well does the miter track work with the rails blocking either end... I assume fine for anything with relatively fixed mounting, like a featherboard,, but any jigs that could potentionally be stopped from sliding by the rails would present a problem. I also assume that - with the rails blocking either end of the track - thak only miter tack could be used becuase with T-Track, there'd be no way of getting bolts and such into the track.

Just re-quoting your request so it doesn't get lost after I hijacked you :D

[John Fuda]

John, did you have any issues with the miter track ends being blocked by the rails?

[John Coloccia]

John, did you have any issues with the miter track ends being blocked by the rails?

The rails will block a miter track but I don't have a miter track on my table. I mainly use the router table for pattern work at the moment so no need for a slot. I don't see why you you couldn't notch the rail at that point if you really wanted to.

[John Fuda]

...I don't see why you you couldn't notch the rail at that point if you really wanted to.
That's what I was thinking too, might have to notch those beautiful powder coated rails with a grinder.. but a tool has to be used to really be a tool, so I guess I'll have to do what I have to do if that's the way I decide to go.

I wonder how my Porter Cable 7518 + Benchdog lift compares to the weight of your setup. I'm going to go ahead and reinforce the table from the get-go, just to be safe. I think the inboad leg is a good idea as well.

[Rick Gifford]

I know this is an old thread, and I didnt see the replies then. As far as the miter track and the rail obstruction I worked around it. Took the rails off when cutting the slot for the track. The track on the back side of the saw does not obstruct access. The front rail does. I did not notch the rails. However I do have to install from the back side only. So instead of an open track on each end, I can only access the slot from one end. No big deal.

[Peter Koutsovitis]

I'm going to be taking delivery of a SawStop PCS in the next few weeks. My thought is to just laminate a piece of MDF underneath the existing SawStop 36" extension table and create the opening for the router plate. Should't that make it stiff enough? (I hope this does not constitute hijacking this thread)

[Dave MacArthur]

When a thread is almost 2 years old, there's no such thing as hijacking... You could post a comment about the weather ;)

However, it turns out to still be a useful thread, as I've been staring at my SS extension and that $199 3.25hp triton deal for a month now... Glad someone pimped the thread, as it's info I needed!

[John Coloccia]

I'm going to be taking delivery of a SawStop PCS in the next few weeks. My thought is to just laminate a piece of MDF underneath the existing SawStop 36" extension table and create the opening for the router plate. Should't that make it stiff enough? (I hope this does not constitute hijacking this thread)

Well, I started this thread and I posted somewhere in here what my eventual outcome was. My opinion is that this will NOT be enough. I have a piece of phenolic ply laminated to 3/4" MDF, reused the SS legs and braces, and I still sagged. I don't think you can laminate enough wood under there to keep it from sagging. It really needs solid bracing, not more sheets of wood. Even better might be to replace it with a phenolic table.

[Bernie May]

I am in the process of putting a Benchdog cast iron table in place of the phenolic table on my new SS PCS. I have already drilled a couple of new holes in the rails and have marked the rails to cut the relief for the miter track. The rails are meant to be used, not looked at. I felt no pain in cutting those brand new beautiful black rails. Well, maybe just a little pain.

[Maurice Ungaro]

This has been discussed many times. I would just go ahead and add the support ribs now instead of having to retrofit them later. JMHO. ;-)

What Glenn said. I did that with my Uni, and haven't had a like of trouble (3 years). You should also make a box enclosure for the router at the same time. Cut some breather slots in the sides of it, a put a 4" port on the back - you'll be glad you did. Makes routing quite tidy.

[Charles Goodnight]

I did that. When I first got the sawstop I cut a hole for a router insert into the melamine (or what ever it was) extension table. Later I got a great deal on a damaged phenolic table from woodpeckers. I cut that down to fit into the rails on the saw stop, and never looked back. It works great, and looks like it was born to go in that spot. It took me maybe an afternoon to install it. I also added a dedicated on/off switch to below the fence.

One thing to consider is that if you want to use the saws fence you really want the fence on the right side of the bit. The sawstop fence barely fits to the right of my insert, and not at all if you have a big auxiliary fence with dust control. I came up with two possible solutions: (1) work from the back of the saw. Then the fence is to the saw side where there is plenty of room, or (2) make a separate fence for the router table. I went with the second, because the first did not occur to me until after I had made a second fence, but the reality is setting up the router so that the working side is the back of the saw is the elegant solution.

[John Coloccia]

I do mostly pattern work and some slotting, and I always work from the side or the back of the saw, for exactly the reasons you stated. :)

re: auxillary switches
I did one better. I always seem to be doing stop cuts of some sort, or changing directions, or any number of things. I put my router on a foot pedal. In fact, I'm starting to use all of my routers with foot switches. This is about 10 times more convenient for the type of work I do. If you do a lot of edge work on large pieces (and you're walking around a lot), maybe not so much. I just love that if I run into an issue, or something just feels funny, I can firmly hang on, lift my foot and wait for it to stop before having to move anything.

[David Hostetler]

John,

I believe the SS contractor, and SS PCS saws are pretty standard sizes, I have seen plenty of them with Bench Dog router wings, or even shop built ones. I am not sure why you would want to mod the OE wing, I would imagine the machining would be rather expensive, and I somewhat doubt the webbing on the under side of the wing would be strong enough to support everything once the top is slotted for miter slots, and the router lift...

Now if you have the ICS, that has an oddly deep wing / table, and I would imagine you would probably need to have your wing custom made...

[Dennis French]

I'm looking to put a router table in the extension table of my saw stop. I don't like the Incra rails/fence....I like the saw stop's. Anyhow, if you own a saw stop with the extension table, do you think I could just route through the table, stick a woodpecker in there, and call it a day? Is the stock SS table stiff enough, with enough support?

Inquiring minds want to know.
John, I just got my Sawstop 52" this past week and got it all set up and got my Woodpecker router lift and T-track for a Rockler Fence all in place. Also added a nice little downdraft dust collection box. The bracing under the table is barely adequate for a router IMHO (and they use pine) so I added more reinforcement with oak. When I was all finished, sitting back and admiring my new addition I noticed the light reflecting off that glossy laminate in a disturbing manner. As I got down at the proper angle I could see very slight bumps in the laminate-where the factory reinforcing was done( not my new oak pieces) most I could not feel but a couple I could. They were so subtle that I hadn't noticed them before I started cutting in for my router. Anyway, I emailed Sawstop and they are coordinating with the local distributor where I bought the saw and I will get a new table. This table would have been OK if it were just going to be used for an extension support, but really was unacceptable for use as a router table top (as the Sawstop rep admitted). So just look carefully at your top, make sure the factory hasn't overdriven the reinforcement screws, do a little more reinforcing yourself ( I allowed 9/16" of screw when I attached my supplemental reinforcement - no bumps!) Good Luck!