Filling in engraving before finishing

[Rick Gifford]

Reposting this from finishing forum:

I have been working on a flower display box for my daughter. It has been one of those on again off again projects.

She decided she wanted the lid laser engraved and so that has been done.

We were thinking of some way to bring out the engraving. She would like something red.

I am unsure what would work well without bleeding into any finish.

I have delayed the finishing selection until I can figure this out in case I should match a finish with what is used in the lettering.

One thought was using model airplane paint enamel in the engravings.

I would appreciate any suggestions. Finishing is something I have much to learn. Depth of engraving is approx. 1/64".

117685

[Bruce Volden]

Rick

What I have done in the past is 1- masked off, then engraved, 2- sprayed lacquer, poly.... to seal the area to be color filled, 3-globbed the engraved area (ok, not "globbed":D) and then when all was dry start the weeding process.

I see you can't use the above method!! Were it me at this point, I'd still spray a sealant onto the lid and then after it was dry wax the area being careful to avoid the area to be color filled, then fill it, let dry and things "should" buff off leaving no unwanted colors able to leach into the rest of the lid.....fingers crossed here.

Bruce

[Tim Bateson]

If you have the setup saved and can re-laser - Find a Harbor Freight & buy the red Powder Paint. I think it's about $3.99 or $4.99 for more then you'll ever use. Some here just let the natural wood oils cure the paint

Use a small paint brush to dab a bit on the engraving, then a business or credit card to screed it across and down into the engraving. Laser it at 100% speed and 8-9 power (35watt). Vacuum the area around it then wipe off any excess. Spray a lacquer or other finish to help seal it. Done

[Rick Gifford]

Tim the laser melts the paint like this?

[Rodne Gold]

The easiest way is to seal the wood and the engraving and use red gilders wax paste to fill the engraving (most art/hobby shops have this) and to use turps to remove the excess. You also can get wax fills from engraving supply houses.

[Tim Bateson]

Rick, it glazes the powder paint, the natural wood oils do the rest. Too little power and it does nothing, too much power and it blasts the paint away.

Also, when glazing the powder paint with the laser, do not use the blower.

[Rick Gifford]

I want to thank everyone for the replies. I appreciate the help.

I know next time I will be better prepared before I engrave.

I'll take a look at the options. This project might go as is. Deffinately as a learning experience.

[Bob Cole]

It is a little time consuming but not impossible to use a see through mask applied to the item and engrave small areas with real low power to match up the location exactly. Then you can engrave enough to go through the mask. This should make colorfill or whatever you plan to do easier with less chance of "messing up".

I only mention this if you have no other choice. Unfortunately, I've had the chance to do this on a fairly expensive item that I would have had to replace anyway. I used the red lasermask from JP. It is fairly sticky so not sure if you will have an issue with the finish on the wood.

Another trick I used for weeding using the above tape and colorfill was to use the sticky side of the tape to pickup all the normal weeding scraps.

That lasermask also worked very well as a sandblast mask as long as you were using low pressure (I was using about 20psi).