MDX or plywood or ??

[Ed Calkins]

I am building (modifying actually) a 3' by 6' bench to be both an outfeed table for my cabinet saw and a work bench. This is not the work of art workbenches I have read about here that many of you make -- but should work well for what I need. The top is first a piece of plywood and to that I will attach an old solid wood fire door I have (the combined thickness of these two layers will be approx 2 7/8") The top layer is my question -- I plan to use some sheet product of about 3/4" thickness which should give me enough mass on the top to provide a good work surface. Any suggestions on what to use for this top layer? I read about MDX here a lot but haven't used that product yet. The legs and understructure are all welded steel -- it is stable. I purchased a Veritas large front vise that I will mount on the end farthest from the saw. There will be dog holes in the top surface. I have some 1 x 4 Oak that I will probably use around the top perimeter. Also plan to purchase some maple for the vise jaws, does that sound correct? Thanks for any advice. Ed

[Matt Day]

I haven't heard about MDX either - Medium Density Extremeboard?

[glenn bradley]

I think Ed is talking about MDF and my entire top is made from 4 laminated 3/4" layers of it. It supports my two vises and the dog holes work fine. I hit the top with a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits about 3 or 4 times, let it gas-off for about a week and then paste waxed it. It has held up very well BUT, I do have the edges supported with a fir frame. The edges of MDF will not hold up well unsupported.

When connecting the layers, keep a map of any metal fasteners if used. This will avoid problems as you add miter grooves or dog holes in the future. I stuck my map in an envelope and stapled it under the bench so I won't lose it or put it somewhere "special" :D. It has already come in handy a couple times.

[Ed Calkins]

Thanks Glenn for knowing what I should have said rather than what I said. Thanks also for the info. I will try MDF on the top surface, probably flatter than plywood and a tougher surface. I plan on supporting the edges with 1 x 4 oak. What is BLO? Your map tip will also be followed. Ed

[glenn bradley]

Thanks Glenn for knowing what I should have said rather than what I said. Thanks also for the info. I will try MDF on the top surface, probably flatter than plywood and a tougher surface. I plan on supporting the edges with 1 x 4 oak. What is BLO? Your map tip will also be followed. Ed

Boiled Linseed Oil. I took this tip from a lot of folks but mostly Jim Becker convinced me with his long term experience with surfaces being treated this way. Now that I've had some time with them, I too am a proponent. If something goes horribly wrong, just repair, re-BLO and re-wax ;-)

Also, I have gotten a couple good dings in spots regardless of taking care. The next time I'm using epoxy for something I just dribble a little in the ding(s), sand when dry and re-wax that spot. I have done a total re-wax (without stripping the previous coat) twice in all this time and glue, spilled shellac and such just pop right off.

[Peter Quinn]

Just for the sake of conversation Ed, there is a product called MDX, it is a full exposure exterior version of MDF (Medium Density Exterior versus Medium Density Fiber board). MDX is a bit spendy and would be complete over kill unless your outfeed table doubles as a drinking game table at college frat parties occasionally.:D Barring that possibility MDF makes a good skin for an outfeed table or a utility work bench. Melamine makes a nice outfeed table too but a crappy work surface being so slick if your purpose is to use the outfeed as a work bench.

[Jason White]

There's actually a newer product that is an "outdoor" type of MDF, which is probably what MDX is (X referring to "exterior," kind of like the X in CDX plywood). This "outdoor" version of MDF uses moisture resistant resins to bind it together.

Not sure I'm brave enough to try any type of fiberboard product outside, though.

Jason


I think Ed is talking about MDF and my entire top is made from 4 laminated 3/4" layers of it. It supports my two vises and the dog holes work fine. I hit the top with a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits about 3 or 4 times, let it gas-off for about a week and then paste waxed it. It has held up very well BUT, I do have the edges supported with a fir frame. The edges of MDF will not hold up well unsupported.

When connecting the layers, keep a map of any metal fasteners if used. This will avoid problems as you add miter grooves or dog holes in the future. I stuck my map in an envelope and stapled it under the bench so I won't lose it or put it somewhere "special" :D. It has already come in handy a couple times.

[Peter Quinn]

There's actually a newer product that is an "outdoor" type of MDF, which is probably what MDX is (X referring to "exterior," kind of like the X in CDX plywood). This "outdoor" version of MDF uses moisture resistant resins to bind it together.

Not sure I'm brave enough to try any type of fiberboard product outside, though.

Jason

I used some bead board made of MDX as part of a bathroom remodel for a client. Used regular MDF in a mud room and hallway, and the MDX version in the adjacent bathroom. I wouldn't hesitate to use it having tested it. I glued some pieces together, soaked them in a 5 gallon bucked, left them out doors in that bucket for weeks submerged, pulled them out, completely unaffected by the exposure. There is also a mid grade of water resistant MDF suitable for exterior indirect exposure applications like porch ceilings, maybe soffit lining as well? Its a bit cheaper, never tried it.