Where to buy 220 volt power cord?

[Wes Billups]

I have another new tablesaw question. I need to change the plug on the saw as it’s a twist lock which I don’t have plus the previous owner used 10/2 Romex for the cable. Needless to say it’s pretty inflexible.

Saw details:
5 hp 19.8 amp 220 Volt motor
6’ distance to outlet

Does anyone make a NEMA 6 style power cord?

Thanks,
Wes

[Roger Jensen]

You'll probably have to build the cable, but it is easy. You can get the cord and plug from HD or Lowes. Grab any electrical book at the book stand and look up the size wire you need for the length and amperage you need. Get a plug to match your socket at home, or buy a matched set and re-wire your house socket.

Roger

[Chris Padilla]

Wes,

When it comes to electrical cords, I always try to get the beefier ones. For the TS, I would get some #10 cord at Home Depot or Lowes. Find the soft kind (sorry, I don't know the brand/style/type) that flexes nicely (you'll know it when you pick it up) and you'll be good to go. It will be a bit spendy but will work for you. I can't imagne using Romex for an extension cord!!

[Chuck Isaacson]

I bought the cable for me General TS at the BORG. I got it in 12GA because I am running only 13A or so. It is 12/2 that is soft and flexible. Worked out real nice.

[Don Jarvie]

Home Depot or Lowes should sell 10g in a flexable rubber. Its black and begins with SJ or S something.

[Lucas Moore]

I had to do the same thing with my TS. I purchased a Ridgid power cord 12/3 and purchased the receptacle heads. Total cost was about 40 bucks for 25 ft extension cord and fittings

[Tom Veatch]

Wes,

Get yourself a length of flexible 12ga 3 wire (2 hot + ground) cord and a plug and receptacle to match the current capacity of the circuit, NEMA 6-20 for a 20 amp circuit or 6-30 for a 30 amp circuit. You can find the cord and devices at the borg or an electrical supply house near you.

Do not use a plug/receptacle that is mismatched to the breaker on the circuit. Use the L6 plug/receptacle versions if you want to use a locking plug/receptacle.

For that length of power cord and a 19-20 amp motor, 12 ga wire is sufficient. You won't really gain anything using a heavier gauge except the pleasure of spending more money.

[Leo Graywacz]

SJO 10-3 is what you are looking for.

[Rob Damon]

Our local HD/Lowes carries the portable cord that is type SJOOW.

If your tools are in a garage that gets liquids on the floor and the cord lays across it, the "OW" works nicely.

S = Service
J = Junior (300V)
O = Oil Resistant Jacket
O = Oil Resistant Insulation
W - A = Weatherproof Approved

Rob

[Dan Friedrichs]

I found that a cheaper way was to buy a 12ga extension cord from HF, cut the ends off and put 240V plugs on. The borg's cable-by-the-foot is expensive!

[Von Bickley]

SJO 10-3 is what you are looking for.

I agree with Leo......

[Jimmy Coull]

Wes,
You don't have to make it, you just need to know where to find it. Here's a website :

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25'.HTML

Good Luck,
Jimmy

[Boyd Gathwright]

.... There is a good chance that you might be able to get this at Wal-Mart in the RV section at a better price! Your best price is most likely going to be a contractors electrical outlet store and put it together yourself.

.... Just some thoughts.:)





Wes,
You don't have to make it, you just need to know where to find it. Here's a website :

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25'.HTML (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25%27.HTML)

Good Luck,
Jimmy

[Tom Veatch]

I found that a cheaper way was to buy a 12ga extension cord from HF, cut the ends off and put 240V plugs on. The borg's cable-by-the-foot is expensive!

Plus, if he buys a long one along with replacement ends, since only 6' or so is needed for the power cord, he'll wind up with a usable, heavy duty extension cord as well as a power cord for the saw.

And I agree, 12ga is plenty large enough for the load. 12ga copper wire would only introduce a 0.5 voltage drop (0.2%) at the motor's FLA. 10ga wire would be 0.3 voltage drop (0.1%). The difference between the two is negligible.

[Rollie Meyers]

I found that a cheaper way was to buy a 12ga extension cord from HF, cut the ends off and put 240V plugs on. The borg's cable-by-the-foot is expensive!

Only problem is you get what you pay for, cheap cord stiff in cold weather, flexible in warm/hot weather.

[Luther Oswalt]

I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.

[phil harold]

I bought #12 Flex Cord at Borg as well as a locking receptacle for the wall and a twist locking plug! That way it will not be trying to unplug itself and I like the safety of a locking plug.
just dont trip over the cable and do a nose dive into your floor

flat blades pull out of the wall when you snag one by accident

[John Carlo]

I couldn't bring myself to cut off that nice factory installed 110V molded plug on my new TS so after switching the leads at the motor for 220 operation, I made up a short adapter cable the bridge it over to a 220 shop made extension cord. So, when I pass it on someday, it can easily be switched back to 110 if necessary.

For my 7 1/2 HP planer, I found it cheaper to buy a 10-3 GA extension cord, and then switch the plugs over to 220V ones.

[Rod Sheridan]

I couldn't bring myself to cut off that nice factory installed 110V molded plug on my new TS so after switching the leads at the motor for 220 operation, I made up a short adapter cable the bridge it over to a 220 shop made extension cord. So, when I pass it on someday, it can easily be switched back to 110 if necessary.

For my 7 1/2 HP planer, I found it cheaper to buy a 10-3 GA extension cord, and then switch the plugs over to 220V ones.

That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.

Not to mention it doesn't meet code........Regards, Rod.

[Chris Padilla]

...Frankencord. Rod

:D LOL! :D My apologies but that just had me rolling on the floor...aptly named! :D

[Rod Sheridan]

:D LOL! :D My apologies but that just had me rolling on the floor...aptly named! :D

Glad to be of some use on a Friday afternoon.........Regards, Rod.:D

[Todd Burch]

I like that too - Frankencord. I'll be using that.

John, some things were just made to be cut, like hair, umbilical cords, the cheese, and inadequate power cords.

[Greg Narozniak]

That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.

That was GOOOOOD!!!

[Bill White]

Mine's an SJ00W E54864-G 300 V with appropriate plug/recept. No probs at all.
Bill :)

[Todd Burch]

Several years ago, probably 1999, I was wondering what all the code letters stood for on power cords. So I searched and looked it up on the internet.

"SJ", for instance, stands for "service junior". If you see the letter "O", that means "oil resistant".

[David Weiser]

Wes,
You don't have to make it, you just need to know where to find it. Here's a website :

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25'.HTML (http://www.rvupgradestore.com/browseproducts/30-Amp-RV-Extension-Cord--25%27.HTML)

Good Luck,
Jimmy

That cable is rated for 110 volts only. There is actually an almost horror story on here about an electrician using RV plugs on a heater, caught the plug on fire.

[Rob Russell]

That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.

Not to mention it doesn't meet code........Regards, Rod.

Actually, the NEC has nothing to do with extension cords. The cord isn't part of the building wiring.

While it might sound odd, rewiring the connection at the saw's motor and building a special cord that will plug into a 240v receptacle works. Another way for John to do it would have been to swap out the cord on the saw. That way if he ever needed to go back to 120v, he'd just put the original factory cord back on.

[Rollie Meyers]

Using 120V caps on a 240V application is about as wise as using a match to determine how much fuel is is in the gas can :mad: it's too easy to screw up & mismate a connection. BTW, there was a reason why NEMA created all the plug/receptacle configurations for different voltages/amperes/phase ...........



I lost a ballast on a portable floodlight once because of such foolishness, so am quite touchy about it.

[Rob Russell]

Rollie,

I would agree that, given John's desire to leave the factory cord uncut, the best way in that situation is to remove the factory cord, save it, and install a cord with proper 240v plug. That way the original 120v cord is intact and you don't have the "frankencable" potential you describe.

[Joel Earl]

Only problem is you get what you pay for, cheap cord stiff in cold weather, flexible in warm/hot weather.


BORGS stuff as stiff as the one I bought at HF few years back. IMO the difference, ONLY one, was cost. BORGS almost 2x as much....nonsense.
Then again that mighta been sale priced too - I'm cheap;)

[Thomas Bank]

Welding supply stores are a good source of heavy-duty 220V extension cords such as this one: http://store.cyberweld.com/230voexco25.html

[Michael Pyron]

That only sounds like a great idea until someone plugs a 120 volt device into your Frankencord.



actually its a great idea on a jobsite...some jerkwad, who is too lazy to roll out his own cord, comes over, unplugs your splitter from your lead and plugs in....and promptly proceeds to fry his tool....very, very funny and karmic...

[Matt Meiser]

I've been buying some really nice cord from my local hardware, plus some very nice Pass and Seymor plugs when I restore tools.

I try not to buy rubber jacketed cord. It seems to break down after a few years and splits/cracks everywhere.

[Pat Germain]

For my compressor and band saw, I bought 12ga outdoor extenstion cords from my local home center. It's only about $20 for a 25' cord. I found them to be very durable and flexible even when they're cold. I'm going to buy another for my jointer as it came with a very short power cord. As mentioned, this is less expensive than buying wire by the foot or buying a "power cord".

I was at Harbor Freight just the other day. The 12ga extension cords there weren't any cheaper than the cords I bought. They just had three-outlet adapters on one end. Since I cut the ends off anyway, that's not a plus for me.

I installed a twist lock 220V outlet in my shop. The twist lock plugs cost a little more than a standard 220V plug. But they're very easy to wire up and assemble and they stay plugged in!

[Mark Norman]

I have another new tablesaw question. I need to change the plug on the saw as it’s a twist lock which I don’t have plus the previous owner used 10/2 Romex for the cable. Needless to say it’s pretty inflexible.

Saw details:
5 hp 19.8 amp 220 Volt motor
6’ distance to outlet

Does anyone make a NEMA 6 style power cord?

Thanks,
Wes
Wes,
its been a couple weeks since ya posted, have you got the cord yet?

If the saw is 18.9 amps a 12 ga is barely adequate/ i would go 10ga SO cord and a nema twistlock plug and a new receptacle to match. Like most have said the stuff can be found at the BORG or any electrical supply outlet. I have the stuff laying around the shop. shoot me a pm if yer interested in a bargain.
Mark

[Bartee Lamar]

HD or Lowes, I cannot remember which one I used for this.

It's 10g...

[Wes Billups]

Mark, sorry as I've been pretty slow getting this together. I did use the same plug as Bartee's pictures show just used 12/3 Carol cable instead of the 10/3 as Bartee did. Everything works great. I may hook up my amp meter and measure the amount of draw during usage. I'll try to get some pictures and post them tomorrow.

Wes

[Rob Russell]

Wes,

You never said what the circuit breaker is that's protecting this. If it's a 30A breaker, using 12/3 SO/SJO is a no-no - you need 10/3 SO/SJO.

Rob

[Wes Billups]

Rob, the circuit it's wired to is 20 amp (12/2 Romex). I was worried about the startup amperage on this saw tripping the 20 amp breaker but most people assured me that wouldn't be an issue as the motor's rated at 19 amps.

So far no issues. If I do ever trip the circuit, I'll wire a dedicated 30 amp circuit to the saw. I'm glad I screwed the OSB to the walls in my shop rather than using the nail gun.

I'll get some pictures posted tonight of the saw and power cord.

Wes

P.S. One note is the cable was much bigger in diameter than I would have thought. It barely fit in the compression fitting Sawstop supplies. I have no idea on how Bartee got that 10 gauge into the electrical box.

[Craig Cee]

Nice to see you are wired up. I might suggest that as you run your TS that you check from time to time the motor, cord, plug/receptacle and breaker for any heat out of the ordinary (compare it to one of your other tools). You mention that you're wired with 12/2 romex which is rated for 20 amps. Saw Stop specs. list 20.5 amps on their 5hp motor. I would venture a guess that things will be warm. Suggest you drop a 30amp circuit in with some 10/2 romex and 10/3 SJ cord (with correctly rated plug/recep.); you'll find it's smaller in diameter than SO cord.
Good luck!!
Wisdom: If your motor runs hot than have some $$$ ready for a new motor. Heat KILLS motors.

[Wes Billups]

Craig, the motor plate shows 19.8 amp. This saw is two years old so they may have changed motors. I ran the saw pretty hard last night and didn't see any heat build up in the cord or plug. The max amperage I measured was 12 amps during use.

I was wondering what everyone thinks I should do? The last thing I want to do is burn up the motor or even worse my house. If I keep an eye on the amperage and never go above 15 amps, am I safe with the 20 amp circuit?

Running a new 30 amp circuit wouldn't be the end of the world but will probably take 8-12 hours as I'd have to remove the lumber rack from the wall, unscrew four sheets of OSB, route the new cable, and then put everything back. Which considering I only get 4-6 hours in my shop per week this would be a big deal.

Another item I just thought of and would like input. I could add a 30 amp outlet right below my subpanel which is 15 feet from the saw. I could then get a 20-25 foot power cord for the saw and plug it in right next to the panel. Would this be better than my present setup?
I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks,
Wes

[Mark Norman]

You are good Wes.

Dont worry about it, ya did fine IMHO.

Now its time to enjoy the workshop.