Best sub $700 chain saw?

[travis howe]

Hey folks... my parents still live on the ranch I grew up on in Southern South Dakota. They have a lot of elm tree's that have seen better days. I was thinking about trying to take some cuts home with me to colorado on my next trip there.

I would like to find a nice sized chainsaw....something worth a few extra bucks if need be that can get the job done. I'm not sure if it's "american elm", "red elm" or what....

Thoughts?

Thanks

[James Carmichael]

I would suggest the Arborist site.

You didn't say how many CCs you wanted. Under $700 should get you a lot of saw, but depends if you're planning to mill.

Thought I should add, though I doubt you're planning to do it, that elm is brutal to split.

[Michael Wildt]

I have a Husqvarna Rancher 455. Absolutely awesome machine, and with all the cleanup from the icestorm it sure came handy (during and after). It chews through oak like it was butter.

If it was me I would look at Husqvarna and Stiehl. Both brands are well known and if you can find a local dealer too then I think you would be all set. I didn't go with the big box store since I wanted more guidance on model choice and I wanted a place that had parts handy.

It is a bit on the heavy side so that might be something to think about since it can get a bit tiring, but the power is awesome.

Ohh, and be safe when using it. Get the steel toed boots, chaps, and a hat with hearing protection.

[Ryan Baker]

You can get yourself a real nice Stihl for $700.

[Rich Souchek]

Travis,
Agree with the above comment about arboristsite.com as being very informative about chainsaws. They ae very particular about them and very biased on pro quality Stihl and Huskys. Not all of the saws made by these two manufactures are liked, do some reading.
That said, $700 can get you some nice new saws (Makita, Stihl, Husky) or good used equipment. It will probably depend mostly on what you intend to do with the saw (cut smaller firewood stuff under say 20 diameter vs cutting 60" diameter hardwoods like oak or pecan to using the saw in a chainsaw mill), what chainsaw shop are in your area for service and parts, to what preferences and expereince you have.
Rich S.

[Ron Bontz]

1 vote for a Husqvarna Rancher 460. Mine has a 24" bar and works very well.:)

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Travis, southern South Dakota, I'm guessing the same Siberian elm that we have a "bunch" of in western Nebraska. What part of southern SD?

It's kind of interesting wood. A search here will yield you a couple photos of projects built with it. I've used a few pieces of firewood for bandsaw and handplane practice. It has interlocked grain, and is not the easiest stuff to work with.

$700 will buy you a nice Sthil, which is what I would get.

[jim carter]

get a stihl if you can.

[Scott T Smith]

Travis,

Stihl and Husky both make great saws, and they make some that are not so great.

Echo and Dolmar also have a great reputation.

If you're planning to leave the saw at your folks ranch, I would find out who the local dealers are and ask them for a recommendation, and if possible purchase it locally. That will provide you with a local service option, and the should be familiar with the best saw / chain combination for harvesting the local wood.

If you're planning to keep it for yourself, then find out who your best local dealers are and seek their advice.

Arborsite has some good info, as does the Forestry Forum.

Stihl has both commercial as well as homeowner models. Typically the commercial models have a white handle, and the residential models are orange.

Pay particular attention to the type of chain that you buy with the saw, as this makes a difference both in terms of safety (anti-kickback) as well as aggressive cutting.

Also, the single thing that you can do to extend the life of the saw is to always use a fresh oil/gas mix in it. Dispose of any mix that's older than 30 days, and replace it with a fresh blend.

[Bob Wingard]

+1 on the Husqvarna 455 Rancher .. .. strong saw & great balance. This is one of the best they've ever had in their lineup.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Hey folks... my parents still live on the ranch I grew up on in Southern South Dakota. They have a lot of elm tree's that have seen better days. I was thinking about trying to take some cuts home with me to colorado on my next trip there.

I would like to find a nice sized chainsaw....something worth a few extra bucks if need be that can get the job done. I'm not sure if it's "american elm", "red elm" or what....

Thoughts?

Thanks


Travis, you'd do very well with a Stihl MS-441 or Husqvarna 372XP, which are both close but over that $700 figure. Both of these are professional saws and should last a lifetime. They're both around 70cc.

In the sub-$700 range, the Husqvarna 357XP and Stihl MS-361 are comparable saws, and close to 60cc.

EDIT: stihl and husky have pro and homeowner grade saws. In Stihls, look at the 260, 361, 441, 461, 660, and 880. They are the pro models. In Husqvarnas, the "XP" denotes a pro saw. Those are the ones you want to look at.EDIT

There are also a couple other saws that don't get mentioned a lot, which are very high quality german made saws; Solo, and Dolmar.
The Solo 675 is about 70cc and $700.
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=solo%20chainsaw&catID=45

The Dolmar 7900 is another well made german chainsaw,(also marketed by Makita as the dcs7901---the "DCS" part in the makita part number means 'dolmar chain saw') and a little over $700. But, it has 79cc; quite a large saw and the best power to weight ratio of anything in your price range. These are also rented by Homedepot, which is a testament to their reliability.
Check Ebay for the best price on Dolmar saws. You can probably find one for a bit under $700.

I almost bought one, but ended up with a larger Husqvarna because I wanted to mill with it.

If you're not familiar with 2cycle engines, then you need to buy whatever a local dealer can service.

[Jason Roehl]

Nathan has some good info there.

However, I got my Husqy 372XP from southwestfastener.com about 4.5 years ago for around $600 delivered. Unfortunately, the 372XP is a discontinued model (replaced by the 575XP), and they don't have the prices listed on their site any more.

I have probably 200 hours on my saw, and it still runs like new.

[Ed Labadie]

Nathan has it covered pretty well.

I prefer the Husky 372/Jonsered 2171 over the Stihl 441. The Husky is slightly lighter and has a slimmer body, to me, it handles better. Performance between them will be so close it's not even worth discussing.
The Husky/J-red also come with the larger felling dogs and a roller chain catcher, you have to add them to the 441 if you want them.

An FYI on Jonsered, they are owned /built by Husky, same saws internally, different plastic externally. The Jonsered has a straight handlebar, Husky/Stihl are angled.
The red & black J-red just looks better too. :D

Ed

[Sylvain Deschamps]

I bought Husqvarna model 45 back in 1989 (model numbers have changed since then) and it's stands up to it's reputation. I'm not a pro but I cut an average of 8 16" cords every year for my own use, and I have done at the least 2 dozen lot clearances with maple, beech, birch and under brush. During winter at -30 and in summer at +30, it never let me down. Maintain it properly, change the blade and chain occasionally and use high quality oils and it'll serve you extremely well.

[John Callahan]

Stihl or Husky .......... my choice would depend on the dealer especially if you aren't mechanically inclined. A good servicing dealer is worth his weight in gold- service, parts, and advice. Where I used to live Stihl dealers were rare and Husky was well represented. Where I live now the opposite is the case. My Husky's have served me well over the years. Used to put up 10-12 cord of wood a year- wood was my folks primary heat. Had a 61 and currently a 55 Rancher. Dad's old 40 (brother has it now) is still running strong. Another brother has a 257XP ....... all good. You won't go wrong with either but over the long haul I believe the dealer makes the difference.

[Jonathan Spool]

+1 for the Stihl MS361. Pro quality and performance. 59cc but the electronice keep the torque up. MS441 is at 73cc but I don't think you can find one fo under $700. You'll have the MS361 for the next 20 yrs with reasonable care.

[Ken Garlock]

HI.
On Monday I watched the removal of an Arizona Ash from the back yard of my daughter's new house. The side benefit was that I now have a pickup full of various sizes of Ash.:cool:

The men on the job used Stihl MS 192-CE chain saws. The are compact, light weight, with 14" blades(16" available,) and priced in the $330 area. These fellows make a living trimming and removing trees, and from what I could see the MS 192-CE does the job and earns its keep.

I think I may get one for my own use.:)

[Rob Hermann]

I have a Stihl and love it. Great quality tool.I use it only occasionally and yet, it starts everytime and runs great and is a cuttin' fool.

[Ed Labadie]

HI.


The men on the job used Stihl MS 192-CE chain saws. The are compact, light weight, with 14" blades(16" available,) and priced in the $330 area. These fellows make a living trimming and removing trees, and from what I could see the MS 192-CE does the job and earns its keep.

I think I may get one for my own use.:)

You'll think it's a good saw until you run the ms200. :p

Ed

[Kelley Nelson]

Makita saws in the US are made by Dolmar, and are supposed to be very good saws. I've had limited time with a DCS6401 and it was a very nice saw, professional build. It has a good rep on ArboristSite as well.

[jason lambert]

Did alot of research I would up getting a Stihl basically the one thing that put them ahead was the safety features. I got the one below the 440 the 440 although more power was much heaver. I think the model was a 665 or something anyhow it is great love the thing and good for up to a 25"" bar. Get the pro model if you can the chain runs faster than the home models I paid about $600 for it.

[Larry Conely]

I bought a Stihl about three years ago. It has been in the shop almost constantly. It has never run for more than three minutes continuously. Warranty has run out and nobody can make it to work. I'm looking for another saw now.

[Ed Labadie]

I bought a Stihl about three years ago. It has been in the shop almost constantly. It has never run for more than three minutes continuously. Warranty has run out and nobody can make it to work. I'm looking for another saw now.

IMO, Larry thats unacceptable. I will blame it more on the dealer that Stihl, they are failing to stand behind something they sold.
If you get around the state much, I suggest seeing these guys. http://www.superiorsaws.com/ They are the best I've ever dealt with on repair issues, they might be able to get Stihl to do something for you.

On the other hand, I wouldn't blame you a bit for buying a different make saw.

Ed

[David Keller NC]

"I bought a Stihl about three years ago. It has been in the shop almost constantly. It has never run for more than three minutes continuously. Warranty has run out and nobody can make it to work. I'm looking for another saw now."

I agree with Ed on this one. This is the dealer's fault. Call Stihl North America directly. Regardless of the warranty status, I'm pretty sure you'll get satisfaction, particularly if you've got records of all of the service work that's been attempted.

To the Original Poster -

Generally speaking, in this area all of the pro crews use Stihl saws. That should tell you something - pros do not put up with poor quality equipment. Husky has a similar reputation in some areas of the country.

The one thing you don't want to do is buy a Homelite, Echo, or similar product from one of the big box stores. They're cheap, in both price and performance.

I have two Stihls - one's a "Farm Boss" (which I think is now the 290), and the other's a massive 066 Magnum (now the 660, I think). Both run superbly, though they're 12 years old. I heat my shop with firewood, and they see a lot of use.

Based on that experience, I would suggest to you that a $700 saw is too much. Assuming you're going to be cross-cutting elm for turning/general use, it's a mistake to get a massively powered, big saw. While there's no question you need that kind of power to do a ripping operation with a chainsaw lumber mill like Granberg's Alaskan, such a saw is heavy as heck and the power means it's a lot more dangerous than a smaller saw meant for cross-cutting trees up to 2 feet in diameter.

For that purpose, you should be able to get a Farm Boss for about $400, and it will make a superb, medium powered firewood/general use saw.

[John Thompson]

I agree with David... you can get too much just as you can get too little and the larger you go the more dangerous things get. Also agree the Stilh Farmboss is about right as not too big.. not too little. About a 16" -18" bar is about all you will every need IMO unless you decide to make a career change to lumber-jacking. :)

Sarge..

[David Keller NC]

"About a 16" -18" bar is about all you will every need IMO unless you decide to make a career change to lumber-jacking."

John's right about this - one of the biggest mistakes newbies and homeowners make is thinking that the length of the bar determines the capability of the saw (ie., how big a log it will cut). This is completely backwards - the power of the motor determines how big a log that the saw will cut, irrespective of the bar size (within reason, of course).

That's why you'll run across itty bitty homelites in a big box store with a 20" bar. The saw doesn't have anywhere near the power necessary to run that length of chain without bogging down, but it sells saws.

Though my Stihl farm boss is easily capable of running a 20" bar, I have a 16" bar on it - it makes using the saw much, much easier to handle. The Stihl 066 came with a 4 foot bar, which I took off and replaced with a 28" bar, for the same reasons. The 4 footer is only used with an Alaskan mill and a rip chain (and honestly, a single 066 motor isn't enough, nor would an 850 - it needs a double-motor bar setup and 2 660 motors (and a helper!) - it takes tremendous power to rip a large log of hardwood).

[Nathan Hawkes]

don't[/B] want to do is buy a Homelite, Echo, or similar product from one of the big box stores. They're cheap, in both price and performance.

I have two Stihls - one's a "Farm Boss" (which I think is now the 290), and the other's a massive 066 Magnum (now the 660, I think). Both run superbly, though they're 12 years old. I heat my shop with firewood, and they see a lot of use.

Based on that experience, I would suggest to you that a $700 saw is too much. Assuming you're going to be cross-cutting elm for turning/general use, it's a mistake to get a massively powered, big saw. While there's no question you need that kind of power to do a ripping operation with a chainsaw lumber mill like Granberg's Alaskan, such a saw is heavy as heck and the power means it's a lot more dangerous than a smaller saw meant for cross-cutting trees up to 2 feet in diameter.

For that purpose, you should be able to get a Farm Boss for about $400, and it will make a superb, medium powered firewood/general use saw.


I have to disagree about Echo saws; Echo is a german company, and like Stihl and Husqvarna, have low end models, and some are sold at box stores, but what you find at the dealer is quality, and many a tree crew around here uses high end Echo saws, trimmers, blowers, etc. My father has a Farm Boss saw, and it is okay, and more than enough for most people, but if you have a $700 budget and grew up on a farm, chances are you're looking for more saw. IMHO it is not going to stand up to the abuse of long cuts at wide open throttle for several minutes at a time, which is what it may take to process a large log into blanks. They simply aren't meant to do that. Ask any dealer and they will tell you that flat out. I'm not saying you should go grab a Stihl 660 or Husky 395XP ;) (a bad mojo saw, though) but if you have the money, buy the absolute best saw you can afford. That said, the Farm boss is HEAVY AS HECK! My MS361 weighs about a pound less and has significantly more power. The Dolmar 7900 that I was talking about weighs the same as the Farm Boss and has nearly twice the power. But....the husky I use to mill with gives me back problems for sure. Dealers will sell the Farm Boss with a 20" bar, but if you ask them their honest opinion, it should be sold with a 16". If you need a 24, 30, or even 36" (or larger, hee hee) bar, then you need to step up. A Farm Boss isn't ever going to do well with even a 24" bar. That said, there's a reason it is Stihl's #1 selling chainsaw; its reliable, has as much power as most people will need, and is affordable. Hope I don't come off sounding like a know-it-all. I own three saws, and use them a lot. Just my experience.

[Nathan Hawkes]

John's right about this - one of the biggest mistakes newbies and homeowners make is thinking that the length of the bar determines the capability of the saw (ie., how big a log it will cut). This is completely backwards - the power of the motor determines how big a log that the saw will cut, irrespective of the bar size (within reason, of course).

That's why you'll run across itty bitty homelites in a big box store with a 20" bar. The saw doesn't have anywhere near the power necessary to run that length of chain without bogging down, but it sells saws.

Though my Stihl farm boss is easily capable of running a 20" bar, I have a 16" bar on it - it makes using the saw much, much easier to handle. The Stihl 066 came with a 4 foot bar, which I took off and replaced with a 28" bar, for the same reasons. The 4 footer is only used with an Alaskan mill and a rip chain (and honestly, a single 066 motor isn't enough, nor would an 850 - it needs a double-motor bar setup and 2 660 motors (and a helper!) - it takes tremendous power to rip a large log of hardwood).


Stihl only recommends a 36" bar on the 660; up to 60" on the 880. Husqvarna 395XP will run a 48". I ran both before buying, but the 395 (I have the older 394 that I rebuilt) seemed to have much more torque. I have a 42" as my largest, with a 36" max cut--it handles it fine with an auxiliary oiler. This was really key. I've had no trouble ripping several walnut & cherry crotches roughly 30", and a few oak logs that maxed out the mill at 36".

[Kevin Godshall]

I've been running a JonnieRed (2054 Turbo) for about 12 years now and wouldn't think of even trying another. Recently helped out a neighbor and ran his Huskie 455, and it would make a very close 2nd. Biggest factor in moving his up the ranking was the sharpening he had on it. Literally pulled you thru the log.

Mine is so strong, I cut for 2 hours the other day before I realized I forgot to put the loop back on.................

[Izzy Camire]

I like my Husky 357XP. Great saw

[David Keller NC]

"IMHO it is not going to stand up to the abuse of long cuts at wide open throttle for several minutes at a time, which is what it may take to process a large log into blanks. They simply aren't meant to do that."

I disagree - I have one and do exactly that with it. The most recent use was cross-cutting a 3' diameter red oak log into about 10 pieces. It's done a lot of those jobs - my guess is that I've cut up about 40 red oaks of similar diameter to feed my woodstove over the last ten years, and many more trees that I cut up for neighbors after the 4 hurricanes that went through Raleigh.

But the point to the original poster is that it doesn't make a lot of sense (to me, anyway), to buy a $700 ginormous chainsaw to cut up reasonably sized trees (cross-cut, anyway - ripping is another story).

[Ken Garlock]

You'll think it's a good saw until you run the ms200. :p

Ed

Hi Ed. Thanks for the comment and tip, it does look like the MS 200 is the bigger brother of the 192.

[James Carmichael]

There's some awesome CSes listed here, but I don't know that you need nearly that much saw unless you're planning to mill. Weight may definitely be a factor when you start getting above 60cc.

I would highly recommend you visit the Arborist site and/or get some education in safe felling.

[Ed Labadie]

I would highly recommend you visit the Arborist site and/or get some education in safe felling.

By the time the guys over there get done with him he will have a minimum of 6 saws and 3 of them will be modified. :D

Ed

[Jim Heffner]

I will have to disagree with other posters about their choices of chainsaws. I have 2 Stihl saws that belonged to my dad, till he passed away in 1994. They have been used very little since that time and have been nothing but a PITA ever since! I have gone thru both, from the fuel cap to the crankcase, doing every clean up, maintence procedure possible
and they both are still hard to crank and keep running...and I got tired of it and parked them both! I went to the big orange store, bought a Echo
with a 14" bar, set it up, fired it up and started cutting wood. I have never been happier with a chainsaw in my life. It starts, runs and cuts,
perfectly.....every time...can't say that for the Stihl! It seems the older we get, the less we need that doesn't work properly and this includes our tools! Another thing to consider is the weight of the saw...a lighter weight
one will tire the user a lot less by the end of the day than a heavier one will. I know some swear by their Stihl or Husky saws....others at them!

[Jacob Reverb]

Stihl 361. Great saw.

[John Thompson]

I will have to disagree with other posters about their choices of chainsaws. I have 2 Stihl saws that belonged to my dad, till he passed away in 1994. They have been used very little since that time and have been nothing but a PITA ever since! I have gone thru both, from the fuel cap to the crankcase, doing every clean up, maintence procedure possible
and they both are still hard to crank and keep running...and I got tired of it and parked them both! I went to the big orange store, bought a Echo
with a 14" bar, set it up, fired it up and started cutting wood. I have never been happier with a chainsaw in my life. It starts, runs and cuts,
perfectly.....every time...can't say that for the Stihl! It seems the older we get, the less we need that doesn't work properly and this includes our tools! Another thing to consider is the weight of the saw...a lighter weight
one will tire the user a lot less by the end of the day than a heavier one will. I know some swear by their Stihl or Husky saws....others at them!

Jim.. I had an older Stihl that was a pain also. That was when they had a different carburetor and no clear bubble primer to use to get gas up. You had to pull it a few times to prime it and then use the choke for two pulls.. turn the choke off and then pull again. If too much gas got in the cylinder head when priming... it would flood the saw. The carb was finickly also.

Since.. they have gone to a more advanced carburetor and a primer which requires three plunges to prime.. choke (when saw is cold) for no more than two pulls.. turn choke off and it will crank on the next pull. I had a weed-eater back then that did the same thing... Absolutely no problems for me these days.

Can't comment on the Echo as I have not used one..

Sarge..

[Mike Heidrick]

Stihl. I had a MS290 Farm Boss of 3 days. Returned it and got the MS260 Pro. What an awesome saw. I LOVE the decompression button. Makes starting the saw SO much easier. Check it out or move up to the 361.

[David Gendron]

An other saw to look at is Shindawa, they usualy are cheeper than the Huski and Stihl. I have an old Stihl 38 magnum(72cc) That is about 12 years old and about 1000 hours and still start like a new one! I also have a Huski 345xp, that is a good saw, quik and light, but fragile like all the xp series!

[jim carter]

I will have to disagree with other posters about their choices of chainsaws. I have 2 Stihl saws that belonged to my dad, till he passed away in 1994. They have been used very little since that time and have been nothing but a PITA ever since! I have gone thru both, from the fuel cap to the crankcase, doing every clean up, maintence procedure possible
and they both are still hard to crank and keep running...and I got tired of it and parked them both! I went to the big orange store, bought a Echo
with a 14" bar, set it up, fired it up and started cutting wood. I have never been happier with a chainsaw in my life. It starts, runs and cuts,
perfectly.....every time...can't say that for the Stihl! It seems the older we get, the less we need that doesn't work properly and this includes our tools! Another thing to consider is the weight of the saw...a lighter weight
one will tire the user a lot less by the end of the day than a heavier one will. I know some swear by their Stihl or Husky saws....others at them!


gets some weights and work out. i have a stihl 075 and it takes a man to handle that saw.

[James Carmichael]

By the time the guys over there get done with him he will have a minimum of 6 saws and 3 of them will be modified. :D

Ed

Too true, he'll probably be questioning his own sanity.

If you think the "best sharping method" threads get ugly here on SMC, try posting "Husky vs Stihl" over there and watch the fur fly (just don't tell them I sent you!).

[Jim Heffner]

Jim.. I had an older Stihl that was a pain also. That was when they had a different carburetor and no clear bubble primer to use to get gas up. You had to pull it a few times to prime it and then use the choke for two pulls.. turn the choke off and then pull again. If too much gas got in the cylinder head when priming... it would flood the saw. The carb was finickly also.

Since.. they have gone to a more advanced carburetor and a primer which requires three plunges to prime.. choke (when saw is cold) for no more than two pulls.. turn choke off and it will crank on the next pull. I had a weed-eater back then that did the same thing... Absolutely no problems for me these days.

Can't comment on the Echo as I have not used one..

Sarge..
Sarge, you are exactly right on the money with these older Stihl saws!
You pull, yank, grunt,cuss and do it till you are worn completely out and have no energy left to cut wood if they ever crank! I bought the cheaper Echo CS-306 and this little saw is a real pleasure to use and doesn't wear you out before you get started. I remember my dad saying negative remarks about cheaper saws like Homelite and some others that other people had at that time....the truth was at the end of the day when all the cutting was done....those cheaper saws would still be ready to go when the more expensive one's were headed for the shop to be repaired!

[Ed Labadie]

Too true, he'll probably be questioning his own sanity.

If you think the "best sharping method" threads get ugly here on SMC, try posting "Husky vs Stihl" over there and watch the fur fly (just don't tell them I sent you!).

You got that right! I'm a member there......I just stay out of the threads like that.
I can't pick sides anyway, I run Stihls, Huskys & Jonsered. :rolleyes:

Ed

[Hilel Salomon]

I agree with Nate and David and would like to add (emphasize) the following:
Before you do anything, decide on what you will be doing with the chainsaw. If you'll be working on small, medium sized trees, firewood etc., don't get too big a saw. I have chainsaws ranging from the limb cutting ones to the 066 Stihl. You wouldn't want to be hauling the 066 around for small and medium jobs.
I have Echo equipment and find them to be very, very well made, easy to start and excellent for small-medium work; For limbs, I use the echo's and the 200 Stihl which is fabulous but-imo-overpriced for what it does. For medium to moderately large, I use Husqvarna 372's and a Stihl 036 pro. For really large (not gigantic) stuff, the 066 is great. I also have a small/medium Makita and a medium Solo and think that they are fine as well. Service is extremely important and it is harder to find service on those than it is on Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo stuff.
I would avoid buying a chainsaw at HD or Lowe's. They generally carry the lowest ends of the brands, don't service what they sell and you may wind up with a giant door stopper. I hate to say this, because, I would like to buy American, but the stuff made in Germany and Sweden tends to be superior to the ones made here.
Luck, Hilel.

[Bill Orbine]

I wouldn't buy anything from the BORG. STIHL is my choice. Have a Farm Boss from the late 80's or early 90's and it STIHL runs great today. The key to longevity is maintenance and USE it every once in a while before motor dries up leaving rancid gas and oil.