Band sawn glue up quality edges

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Who's doing it?
What is your set up?
What blade?

I have a colleague who wants to cut thin strips on his band saw and have the cut faces good enough to use for glue ups.

[Phil Phelps]

Mmmm. What kind of wood? Hopefully nothing with a tough grain. I use a block wet stone to remove a portion of set on my 1/4", 6 tooth, hooked, blades. While it's running, I start from the back of the blade and lightly run it along the side of the blade on both sides. I can saw a letter from MDF and have it smooth enough for a light 220 sanding. Soft wood, such as sugar pine and even basswood would pass the test. Poplar is too hard for my fine set, however. Hope I've helped you.

[Doug Mason]

I've never been able to achieve an acceptable cut for glup from the bandsaw. I've read a post in which someone said it could be done with a carbide blade and a power feeder.

[Howard Acheson]

I've never found a blade to do that.

When cutting veneers, I first joint or plane the board face flat. Then I put that face against my fence and slice a veneer. Then I repeat the process starting with a jointed face.

Now when gluing up, I can glue the jointed face of the veneer to the substrate and then sand the veneered surface flat and smooth.

[David Christopher]

the resaw king will get pretty close to what you want...but they are expensive

[James Carmichael]

What Doug & Howard said.

[Jamie Buxton]

When you say "glue-ups", what do you mean? Do you want a face that is smooth enough that it will make a secure glue joint? Or do you want a glue line that is so smooth that you can look at it? That is, the glue line is almost invisible. The first is possible. I do it routinely. The second is beyond any bandsaw I know.

For instance, I cut tenon cheeks on a bandsaw. There are little ridges and valleys on the cheek. But it is still a secure glue joint. But if I tried to use the same bandsawn cut for the board-to-board butt joints in a table top, the glue line would be too visible for me.

[Danny Burns]

Even if you find a blade that is capable of such a feat, then you have to eliminate all vibration in the saw, which is a long slow trial n' error process, that can be tedious to say the least.

If you plane one surface of your stock flat before the bandsaw, and then run your wood through the Bandsaw, then you will be half-way there.

If you have access to a tablesaw, and wood that is not too thick, then using a Glue Line Rip blade for the task will give you the surface you are looking for.