Poor Man's Router Lift Question

[Angie Orfanedes]

I am about to upgrade my router table - put on a new top, and make a new fence. I am intrigued by the references to making a poor man's router lift, just by using a long piece of threaded rod and other hardware. After scratching my head a lot, and taking apart the base/spring/adjuster assembly on my Freud FT2200, I think I know how to do it.

So here's my question. I have read a lot of responses that say you must take out the springs in the columns when installing a router lift. It seems to me that keeping those springs in there, would help the router "spring" back into position when adjusting the bit height. Would someone explain to me why it is a good idea to remove those column springs?

[sullivan mcgriff]

The springs are pushing with gravity when it is mounted upside down so you have to work even harder to get more bit exposed.

[Ben Franz]

I have an older Hitachi plunge router which I use in my router table. Bought it over 20 years ago in the days before router lifts existed. There was an aftermarket adjustment knob that threaded onto the stop shaft with an extension tube and hand knob - the knob is 2 or 2.5 inch diameter. I reach under the table and crank the knob to adjust bit height. I leave the springs in the plunge mechanism and there's no significant resistance when raising the bit. Non-high tech but non-high dinero.

[Leigh Betsch]

pic of my Hitachi router and lift. I mounted the posts directly into the table insert, this allowed enough travel to get the collet above the table for bit changes. I removed the springs from the posts. I use a 3/8 16 threaded rod for the lift screw, this gives 1/16" per revolution of the lift screw. I have a drawing around someplace if you are interested.

[Curt Harms]

I rigged a crank to replace the knob and removed the springs. Bad idea. I found that when I locked the plunge lock without the springs the bit would tilt. And without the springs I had to use the plunge lock because otherwise the crank would vibrate and the router would lower on its own. I bought a router raizer and they recommend leaving the springs in so I reinstalled them when I installed the raizer. I don't know how the crank idea would work with the springs in. There's an article on Wood Central's web site where a guy rolled his own router raizer style lift using a threaded rod and hex head screw threaded into the end of the threaded rod.

[Paul Steiner]

I have the hitachi (m12v I think) pictured above in a router razier $99. It works very well but after installing it and taking the springs out of the plunge mechanism, I thought I could have done this on my own with a little engineering.

[Brian Backner]

There was also an article in American Woodworker about building a router lift. It was combined with a hinged top to allow for changing bits without the need to remove the router from the carriage. Can't remember the exact issue, but I think it was around issue #95 or 96.

There was also an article in ShopNotes (or one of its sister publications) about building a router lift with built in under table dust collection. Can't remember the issue, but within the last five years.

I spent some time trying to combine the two concepts, and eventually shelved the idea when I got busy doing other things. I was convinced, though, that the two ideas could/would work together.

Brian

[Jerome Hanby]

There was also an article in American Woodworker about building a router lift. It was combined with a hinged top to allow for changing bits without the need to remove the router from the carriage. Can't remember the exact issue, but I think it was around issue #95 or 96.

There was also an article in ShopNotes (or one of its sister publications) about building a router lift with built in under table dust collection. Can't remember the issue, but within the last five years.

I spent some time trying to combine the two concepts, and eventually shelved the idea when I got busy doing other things. I was convinced, though, that the two ideas could/would work together.

Brian

I tracked down that issue a year or so ago, it was:
<img alt="" width="1" border="0" height="5"> AMERICAN WOODWORKER #44 APRIL 1995
Had a crank on the front to raise and lower.

[Roger Newby]

I took a Porter Cable Model 7529 plunge router and replaced the plunge adjust turret with a 3/8-16 threaded rod and round threaded insert. I counterbored the lift plate to clear the head of the adjust bolt. The springs were left in and everything works fine. The whole unit is lifted out to change bits.

[Mike OMelia]

http://www.hoosierworkshop.com/rtrlift.aspx

Mike

[Clifford Mescher]

Woodworker"s Journal has an interesting home-made router lift in their new June 2009 issue. Might be worth a look-see. Clifford.

[Myk Rian]

Angie;
Believe me, take the springs out when mounted in a table.
With them in the springs will cause the router and insert to lift when you are trying to adjust it.

[Dell Moore]

I came across this one when looking at the Super Sled.

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Motorized-Router-Lift.aspx

I've been thinking of trying this possible, but I'm a crummy electrical guy.

Good Luck!

Dell

[Angie Orfanedes]

Thanks for all the replies. I have decided for now to leave the springs in - can always change that later if needed. That electric screwdriver lift is pretty cool - hmmmm (maybe I'll do that someday). I'll post some pictures of what I did on this project.