Is the Kreg Pocket Hole jig a good beginner investment?

[Mark Garc NYC]

I'm still putting my little shop and was looking into getting this.

I've already build my workbench and gotten a router, table saw, miter saw and other basic things.

I plan to build a miter saw workbench and also an office desk for a side room.

Do you think the kreg would be a good start for my first jig? What about the strength of the pocket hole design? I'd appreciate any comments.

[Ken Lefkowitz]

Extremely quick and powerful. I always use glue before screwing together. It is an excellent investment.

Ken

[Lewis Cobb]

Big thumbs up from up here in Canada. I bought one a few years back at a woodworking show and for whatever reason, never got it out for almost a year. Once I did and started slapping some frames together for workshop items, it never got put away. Fast and strong are the joints. Like others I put a little glue on the joint to feel good but doubt that it's actually needed.

Mount the unit to a piece of plywood and hang 'er on the wall - then it's at the ready when you need it.

Cheers,
Lewis

[Brian Tymchak]

Agreed. I love pocket screws. I use them a lot for my shop cabinets and carts as I feel better having a mechanical fastener in those joints. In fact, the first time I used them was on my hand tool cabinets (3/4" baltic birch case, wall mounted) I dry-fitted the cabinets, using pocket screws only, intending to disassemble them and glue the joints afterwards. It was so strong, that I left it together. Still hanging there on the wall. No issues.

I bought the single hole Kreg jig for about $25 just to experiment with pocket hole joinery and have used it for a couple years now. It would probably save some time to get the multi-hole jig or package, but if time isn't an issue for you it's a cheap way to get started with it. Pay attention to the different kinds of screws for hard wood and soft wood (the thread patterns are different, fine vs coarse).

[Eric Roberge]

You can't go wrong. Worth every penny.
Now.. go get it!:D

[chris dub]

I am a huge fan of pocket holes. I am also a beginner (and probably will be for many years) and a pocket hole jig was one of the first jigs I got. As long as it is a joint that doesn't show I swear by them. You don't have to clamp for hours, and gluing is optional depending on the application. You don't have to align mortises or dowels on both pieces of stock. It is a very forgiving joinery method. From a purest point of view it seems a little like cheating. But from a practical standpoint for joints that don't show, or you don't care that they show, I don't know if you can beat it as a joinery method.

[glenn bradley]

I started with a "mini", $20 at Lowe's, and it still gets used more than my other three setups. Definitely a great thing to have around and versatile too.

[David DeCristoforo]

"I started with a "mini"..."

Simply put, the best 20 bucks you will ever spend. Get the "mini" Kreg, the bit and the "vice grip" clamp and you will never regret it! The only "problem" is that it's so quick and easy, you might be tempted to forgo M&T joints in favor of the pocket screws in situations where the M&T might be more "appropriate". I seriously doubt if you will get even one negative reply.....

[Steve Sawyer]

I too have a Kreg pocket-hole jig. I got the kit that runs about $120 or so (don't know the model number off-hand) but I'm glad that I opted for that kit. The least-expensive kit wouldn't be bad to kinda give it a try, but anything in between will be frustrating as even the simplest project will use a LOT of screws, and a bench-mounted jig with dust collection will be a very early "wish I had" thing, ya know? Also, you can't "upgrade" from one set to another, so you end up wasting money.

The thing to think about is whether you have (as a novice) any immediate need for pocket-hole joinery. It's really best suited to cabinetry, and jigs and fixtures that can be joined using carcase-style joints. Get used to making THAT kind of a decision. There is very little in the way of tools that are NOT useful, but the question is "Do I need it now" or "can I get good use of it now". I really hate to buy a tool that sits on a shelf for six months, only to discover that there's something else of similar value that I'll need next week! :)

[Mike Gager]

yes. was one of the first "high dollar" tools i bought for my shop


i think the only negatives about the kreg stuff you will likely hear are 1. from people who dont own one and have never used one, or 2. from people that use them incorrectly

[Prashun Patel]

Yes, definitely.
I highly recommend you get a kit with a face clamp. The 'toughest' thing about pocket screws is getting them to stay put when screwing together.

[Gene Howe]

I hate the way they look on my face frames. Even with the plugs, they are ugly. Oh, wait.....They're supposed to be on the INSIDE???

Seriously, go for it. A great time saver and clamp saver. As soon as it's glued and screwed, the clamps come off, ready for the next set of whatever.

[Jeremy Polk]

Yes, the best little jig I bought. But don't foget the face clamp, it comes in real handy.

JP

[Chris Padilla]

The only negative I can think of is that it can slip on you when joining two pieces of wood together. That is where clamping comes in handy so it can be dealt with.

Otherwise, a wonderful tool for making quick, strong joints....

[Gary Herrmann]

A very useful little jig

[Joe Scharle]

I would go ahead and get the Master Jig, because eventually you probably will anyway. About a year ago I built this shop cabinet with no other joints but pocket screws or short trim screws. Even the drawers are pocket screwed. There's not a drop of glue anywhere. I did it on a bet and got paid off in January!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/970/Rolling_Shop_Box.JPG

[Chris Tsutsui]

I have the Kreg K4.

It's fast and easy though just be careful not to split MDF if using that for your face frames. :/

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Few things work 100% the way they claim & do so right out of the box.
The Kreg jig is one of those things that does both.

The only negative I can list is that the newer sets come w/out the clamp, but run the same amount as the older set.

[Brian W Evans]

"I started with a "mini"..."

Simply put, the best 20 bucks you will ever spend. Get the "mini" Kreg, the bit and the "vice grip" clamp and you will never regret it!


A big +1. I started with the $20 version, got the two-hole mini version later, and will likely get the K3 or K4 kits when a bigger project comes along. The mini kit is extremely useful for household repairs as well.

I'll also second the need for the vice-grip style clamp.

It doesn't get faster and easier.

[Don Morris]

I started out with the small Kreg kit and built a large cabinet for LOML to store kitchen things in. She had been to a woodworking show with me and we briefly looked at the pocket screw demo and she made the comment she didn't like to see "the holes". It was shortly after that, I bought my first small Kreg kit. When the cabinet was made, I asked her how she liked it...she "loved it". I had to tell her it was a face frame cabinet made with pocket screws. She has since changed her mind somewhat. Still doesn't like to see pocket screw holes, but realizes the pocket screw system can be used, and you can achieve an esthetic result. That shop cabinet shown previously is also proof of that. That was years ago. Recently when I was looking at the construction of a piece of "Stickly" (higher end) furniture I noticed it was put together with pocket screws. So it can't be all bad. It's a good, fast, reliable system. I still like dovetails, M & T joinery when building heirloom furniture, but it's hard to find fault with the Kreg system when used properly in the right place.

[John Lohmann]

I got the R3 kit, a pretty good compromise from the cheapest one, but the master system to start with is probably the best wat to go if you can afford it.

[Ray Dockrey]

I have the K3 master system and I love it. I pretty much do all my construction with pocket screws and glue. It builds fast and you don't have to wait for the glue to setup to proceed on building. I have a Porter Cable biscuit joiner that I bought to build carcasses but since getting the K3 I haven't used it. The nice thing about the master system is the dust collection. Keeping the chips clear is a big benefit. I use one of those electrical plugs that turn on the vacuum when you pull the trigger on the drill. That way you only have to here the vac run when you are drilling.

[Bruce Wrenn]

When it comes to pocket holes, there are two types of people. Those that bought Kreg jigs, and those who wish they had. Save your money, and buy a Kreg first!

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have the master kit, and I love it. One thing, it is a good idea to mount it to a board (mine is 3/4" plywood), so that you can conveniently clamp it to your bench. I used a 2x2 on the bottom of it, so that I can clamp it in my bench vise, so it cannot move on me. This also lets you use the stand offs and stops that come with them.

You will find a lot of pocket hole jigs on the market. I doubt you will ever find one better than a Kreg.

Doc

[Rod Sheridan]

Well someone has to have a negative comment, may as well be me.

I don't own a pocket hole jig, although they look very handy for certain applications.

I was however completely turned off the concept by watching an "expert" make an Arts and Crafts night table at a wood working show with pocket screws.

No M&T, no dovetails, no dadoes...........Doesn't anyone have any standards any longer?

Geez, next thing you know people will be advocating using biscuits in furniture!

OK, I'm off my soapbox, as others have said buy a good one, they're very useful.........Rod.

[Doug Shepard]

I just happened to have ordered the K3MS kit over the weekend as I need to get some shop cabinets together and dont want to spend a lot of time on them cutting joints. Mine's supposed to arrive tomorrow. One question - what kind of screw spacing should I use for putting carcasses together?

[Scott Loven]

6-8 inches on the carcasses, two screws for each face-frame joint is what I do.

Scott

[Scott Vantine]

I also started out with the Kreg Mini! I bought it to learn about pocket hole joinery and decided that as great as the mini is by it's self I needed to upgrade . I went to the local lumber yard that has been around forever that stocks anything Kreg and picked up the Kreg K3 Master Kit. It is great as I don't need to spend the time to adjust the jig around so that I can put in a second hole as the K3 has three holes in the jig that are spaced according to the width of stock that you are using! It is so much faster! And I can hook up DC to it if I am using it in the shop!

[Bill White]

I have the K-2 that I bought about 10 yrs. ago. It is a go-to device in my shop. Just used it last week on the mantle I built for the new home.
Bill

[Fred Voorhees]

One of the best investments in my shop yet. I use it extensively.

[Rob Price]

Pocket holes, yes. Kreg? Maybe. The Keg kits are definitely nice, but there are plenty of "off brand" pocke hole solutions for less. I bought a set at the local BORG and I use [gasp] regular drywall screws. you can split the wood if you're torquing down like crazy. The Kreg stuff is pricey.

If you're not sure it's for you, get a cheap knockoff set and try it out. I do have an extra bit on hand at all times, though, the tip can break off if you're not gentle. Cheapest for me was at Amazon.

I still use glue, just makes me feel better.

The most important part is keeping the wood from shifting while you tighten it.

As far as strength of joint, better than butt, better than biscuits, less than dowels, less than M&T (based on articles from FWW and Wood).

[Prashun Patel]

PennState Industries makes a good knock off too.

Personally, though, I don't find the Kreg's expensive. You can get a block, bit, stop collar, and face clamp for under $40. It's easily configurable for different stock thicknesses.

As for drywall screws, yes, I've used them in a pinch too like with plywood or jigs. But if yr using hardwoods, The McFeely's or Kreg Pscrews have selftapping heads, have a finer thread, and wider head. So they're less prone to split the wood, and have better holding power than a substitute.

BTW, keep yr eye out on **bay and A**zon. You can often get great deals on bulk pscrew packs.

[Mike Gager]

the kreg screws are about $4 for a pack of 100 at lowes. i dont think thats all that expensive when you compare that to their prices of regular wood screws which are usually about the same price for a pack of 50 or 75

drywall screws are about the same price as the kreg screws as well

[Tim Thomas]

I bought a lightly used K3 Master system from another Creek member and I love it. So far I have used it to put together numerous shop jigs, shelving units and work tables and it is just as advertised. Quick, easy and incredibly strong even without glue. I put together a lot of my shop fixtures without glue so I can easily break them down and reuse the wood. (I'm a notorious cheapskate.)

Speaking of being a cheapskate, if you get into using the jig and like it, I would suggest looking at Amazon.com for your screws. I got some very good deals on Kreg brand screws with free shipping. And go ahead and buy the large boxes of 1000 count. Even small projects can use up 50 screws in a heartbeat, and the last thing you want is to run out halfway through.

I suggest these screws to start:
General purpose screws good for 3/4 stock
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-SML-C125-4-Inch-Coarse-1000-Pack/dp/B00002240N/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1241614076&sr=8-2

Special screws good for 1/2 stock (great for making drawer boxes)
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-SPS-C1-500-Pocket-Screws-Pan-Head/dp/B0002QZ502/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1241614035&sr=8-9

[Richard Dooling]

As an experiment I built a wooden screen door for the kitchen using only pocket screws. I wanted to see how much they can take. It’s the old style door with just a long spring to pull the door back and slam! Sounds like summers when I was a kid.

After over a year and a half the only movement has been a barely noticeable shift in the outside stile – the one that gets whacked against the door jamb. It’s so minor you can barely see it though you can feel a slight ridge. I had fully expected the door to need reinforcing by now but the pocket screws are holding up way beyond my expectations.

This isn’t fine joinery and I wouldn’t recommend normally using them for something like this but my little experiment has completely sold me on pocket joinery where appropriate. Save yourself a lot of frustration though and pick up the right angle vise grip to help align things and hold them while driving the screws. It’s the one with a flat pad on one side and a pin that fits in the pocket screw hole on the other side. Where there are two or more screws per joint, the clamp holds the joint together while driving the other screw(s). Remove the clamp and drive the last screw.

I do use true pocket screws. They are a bit pricey but the cost per joint is negligible. I would advise against drywall screws in this application as there is some advantage to the large pan head style as opposed to countersunk head. The pocket screw hole has a flat shoulder that the screw head bears against.

.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Mark,


Pocket hole joinery is great. If you can swing the price I would buy the Master System. I has the most flexibilty, about $149.

Joe