I was busy today

[Scott Hackler]

I took some time and decided to make a giant pile of shaving today!

I first chucked up a small cedar log and turned it rough. Boy that cedar was wet, but it was a joy to turn, and it smelt great (expecially compaired to the elm I have been turning)

Next I got a medium sized cottonwood log, split it into length wise and made 1 regular bowl and one NE. I had issues withthe cottonwood staying in the chuck. Very soft and wet, but I finally got them turned. (although the NE ended up a little thinner than I really wanted so it will probably warp like crazy.

Here a while back I snagged a 4 foot long birch log at the local limb dump. I sliced a nice sized chunk off of it and was turned a large mouth HF. I cant really call it a bowl, because its about 8-9" tall but I had to do a larger mouth because I dont have a hollowing tool and use my HD 1/2 scraper and a gouge to reach in. Heres the GIANT BONUS. My birch log was spalted, somewhat. I realy hope this piece doesnt move that much because it looks really neat. I still have some of this log left!

I also discovered, today, that if you run your lathe in reverse and hear a high pitch wizzing sound, it means the chuck it unscrewing off the lathe! I have it reattached and nothing was hurt (other than my pride). I will put the serious crank down on that allen nut before the machine goes into reverse again.

I have been using the paper sack method for my green turned stuff, but I just painted all these pieces with anchor seal on the outside and am waiting for the AS to dry. Should they still go into the paper sacks, or left out for air drying?

Scott

[John Fricke]

No Pics? :eek: I wouldn't think you need bags if they are anchor sealed

[Steve Schlumpf]

Scott - if you anchorsealed everything there is nothing else to do but wait. The paper bag idea is to slow down the rate of water evaporation as the wood dries. Coating it in anchorseal really slows that process down - so nothing else is needed.

Looking forward to the photos!

[Scott Hackler]

I didnt use AS on the inside of the pieces, isnt that normal?

BTW I bought a crap load of Pamolive dish detergent and am going to try the quick soap method as well.

[Mark Norman]

Wher's the pics Scott??

next purchase....a camera;)

[Reed Gray]

Scott,
Is the Polmolive stuff green or blue? It can color the wood. I soap soak my bowls and turnings (turned to 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, soaked 24 hours in half soap and half water, rinsed, and allowed to dry and warp before sanding). The only thing the soap does is make it easier to sand out. Does nothing to speed up the drying or stabilizing the wood. Same with DNA on thinner bowls.
robo hippy

[Scott Hackler]

Wher's the pics Scott??

next purchase....a camera;)

Oh I have a few cameras, but I am hesitant to post "rough" pictures. You guys set a high standard with your finished products. :)

[Scott Hackler]

Scott,
Is the Polmolive stuff green or blue? It can color the wood. I soap soak my bowls and turnings (turned to 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick, soaked 24 hours in half soap and half water, rinsed, and allowed to dry and warp before sanding). The only thing the soap does is make it easier to sand out. Does nothing to speed up the drying or stabilizing the wood. Same with DNA on thinner bowls.
robo hippy

I guess I misunderstood, from my drying thread the link was posted about the soap technique and from reading the article I was under the assumption that the soap would allow me to turn a green log, soap it, let it set for 4-6 days or so and then turn it to the final shape. Hmmm. I must have read it wrong.

Well besides that, if I coated just the outside of my turnings with AS, should I just let them sit on a wire shelf for __________ weeks and then turn them down to final?

Thanks