Powerfeeder Question/Advice

[Scot Ferraro]

I have been reading a lot about the virtues of using a powerfeeder. Whill I do not have a shaper yet, it sounds appealing to use one on my table saw and router table. I noticed that most of the bigger units (1 hp) are all 220V, except in my research I have come across some Powermatic models that are 1 HP 115V (Powermatic PF-41 Powerfeeder, for example is a 4 wheel unit). Is there any reason why I should consider 220V vs. 115V? Can the 220V units be rewired to 115V? An increase in amps does not really matter, but I would prefer to go with 115V if I can since I only have two plugs in my shop for 220V (and this is for DC and TS and eventually DC and Shaper). I literally have no room left in my current panel to expand for another 220V circuit and I do not want to install a bigger panel-box at this point (although I may be forced to do it).

Any feedback on the Powermatic units? I realize these are all made by a select number of factories and painted different colors but I would appreciate hearing in pros and cons. Anyone know of other brands that would fit my normal "household current" preference?

I appreciate your help.

Scot

[Tom Hintz]

I tried out several Powermatic power feeders, (link to reviews below) all 110V and never thought they could be lacking in power. They are geared so far down to slow the wood movement and send that power thorugh a gear box that the motor power just isn't an issue for anything this side of a full-on industrial setting, if then.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/index.html#pwrfedrs

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a Hammer HC-308 feeder and plug it into the same duplex receptacle that my saw is plugged into (240V 15A).

If you want a 120V feeder, buy one, however the amount of current they draw is based upon how much work they are doing.

It's hard to imagine you actually using a feeder at rated capacity in a home shop.........Rod.

[Ed Peters]

related to your power panel. You could generate several empty spaces allowing for more breakers by using piggy backs for a couple of your 110, low draw circuits. They are actually 2 breakers in the space of 1. They are not terribly expensive when compared to the average cost of a panel upgrade. Another thing you might consider is an auxiliary panel. You sacrifice 2 spaces in your existing panel to gain the extra spaces provided by the auxilliary panel. Both are safe and reasonable alternatives under the guidance of a knowledgable electrician.

Ed

[Peter Quinn]

110V, 220V, no difference as far as power feeders. I use both at work, and a few that are 3 phase as well, all work pretty much the same. Don't know wether or not power feed motors are dual voltage, but my inclination is no, most I have seen have a stated voltage on the motor plate and that's what you get. Also, not sure you would need even 1HP for a router table or most operations on a TS, but it sure is comforting on the shaper.

[Scot Ferraro]

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. These Powermatic feeders look like the ticket as I want something I can use now and in the future when I add a shaper to my tool arsenal. Of course I need to convince my better half, but maybe later this year....

Ed -- thanks for your suggestion. I tried going the piggy-back route, but my panel and circuits are no longer being made and it is a special one that I have not been able to find the cicuits you propose. My neighbor is an electrician and he opted to change out his entire panel and upgrade to Square D. The $500 or so it would cost me to do the same thing might be the way I ultimately go so that I have an increase in capacity.

Rod -- thanks -- my issue is not using the feeder at its rated capacity or pushing it, but rather I do not have the space in my panel to add another 220V circuit. I suppose I could do what you say and add another plug to one of my other circuits and that the combined draw for both the TS and feeder would remain well below the 30 AMP circuit.

Tom -- great review on the Powermatic feeders (I also like reading your review on the PM2700 shaper). I got a chance to look at one of these up close at Eagle Tools -- very nice shaper from what I could tell and it will be on my list when that purchase comes in the next year or so.

Peter -- any other brands that you use that are 110V/115V at work? It seems like they are limited in the 1 hp range, but maybe I have just not come across them in my research yet. It seems like all of the heavy-duty stuff (1 HP) from Steff/Maggi/Felder/General/Delta are all 220V.

Scot

[Rick Fisher]

The Steff/Maggi Feeder is the old standby, very popular.. I believe Felder Feeders are also made by Steff.

[Jeff Duncan]

Power feeders are very handy machines, however they're not always practical for occasional use. 1 HP feeders are fairly heavy units, and your not going to want to be moving it back and forth from router table to tablesaw to shaper. They also take a few minutes to set up properly. Meaning if your going to run a dozen rips on the tablesaw it will take you longer to set up the feed then it's worth. Now if your talking maybe a hundred rips or more, then it starts to become useful. Of course once you have to set the fence for a different cut, you'll have to move the feeder again.
Also keep in mind that you need to be careful setting a 1 hp feeder up to run on a router table. You'll probably want to use the very slowest setting for any decent sized cutters. A 1 hp feeder won't slow down if your router can't keep up with it.
Lastly, (and this is just my opinion), you may want to consider buying a used feeder. They can usually be had for less than half the cost new, which would leave you with some money to put towards a future electrical upgrade.
good luck,
JeffD

[Jim Flynn]

The comment on the weight and difficulty of moving a feeder around are spot on. I use my feeder (steff/maggi, 220V 1 HP) on my Minimax for shaping and jointing, on the band saw for resawing and on the router table for molding runs that I don't have a cutter for on the shaper. In order to make this work I build a cart out of 4x4's, 2x6 scrap, large locking casters and steel plates to reinforce the point of attachment between the feeder and the cart. Weighted down with stored heavy objects it is very stable and allows me to position it at the end of shaper area on the MM for shaping, opposite the jointer portion for jointing, beside the router table... you get the idea. The key is makring sure that the unit is not too high or low for all it's intended purposes.

The other thing I learned is that the feeder can most definitely out-run your router unless you have the gears set for lowest speed. The shaper requires faster feed rates and at least my feeder has 2 switchable speeds to accomodate this type of use.

Once you start using a feeder you will be very pleased with consistency it offers you and the time savings it affords you. I find it faster than using the shaper and router table without it as it eliminates all the fiddling with featherboards, etc. I used to do to insure consistent cuts and it never burns the wood due to incorrect feed technique. Lastly it is alot safer as arguably it's best feature.

[Scot Ferraro]

Thanks Jeff and Jim -- some good advice and information. Jim -- do you have any pictures of your cart? That seems like a great way to handle the mobility issue. Jeff your point on buying used is worth noting -- I have been searching CL to find something as I agree that saving the cost over new is the way to go. I am not in a huge rush so maybe something will become available in the near future.

Thanks again,

Scot

[Jim Flynn]

Sorry Scott, Don't have a pic but it is a simple heavy duty cart. No real imagination applied.

[Jeff Duncan]

If your not in a rush and plan on getting a shaper in the future, consider buying bot at the same time. Fairly often used shapers go on the market with feeders included, this is how I bought both of my feeders. Generally this will be your best value for buying.
good luck,
JeffD

[David DeCristoforo]

I think you would be better to get a smaller 1/4 hp feeder for your router table. Something like the Delta 36-850, the PM Model PF3-JR or one of the "other brands" would be more than sufficient for your RT where a "full size" feeder would be "overkill". The smaller feeder would also be much easier to move around although you may find, as many do, that power feeders have limited usefulness on a table saw. Later, when you do get a shaper, you can equip it with a "full size"feeder that is "dedicated" to the shaper. And "for now", a 1/4 HP feeder will only set you back about half the cost of a "full size" machine.

[Chip Lindley]

Unlike *Tool Time Tim* I do not always believe that overkill is the answer! As David says, a 1/4hp PF (maybe even 1/8hp *mini feeder*) is plenty for a router table. A full size PF will dwarf your RT. Cost is also comensurate with PF size!

Unless you are doing lots repetitive work at the RT that causes fatigue, I believe that any PF is overkill! Jigs and hold-downs safely (and cheaply) keep fingers away from the cutter as well any any PF.

The sheer weight of a PF on its column may cause you to quickly rethink your RT design! Even a 1/4hp PF cannot be simply bolted down to an MDF or Ply RT with much security. But, if you are the proud owner of a QG steel, or other CI RT, disregard!

[Scot Ferraro]

Thanks for everyone's feedback and advice...I think that I am going to keep looking for used with a feeder....although the upcoming 20% off at Woodcraft has me thinking...that PM2700 would be truly awesome...:cool:

Scot