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View Full Version : Milwaukee 5625-20: Will it work well WITHOUT a lift mechanism?



Tom Overthere
05-01-2009, 1:00 PM
I'm ready to buy a router for mounting in my first router table. I've pretty much decided on the 3.5HP Milwaukee 5625-20

BUT...

I've been reading reviews from users--mostly spanning 2003 to 2006--warning that the through-the-table height adjustment mechanism fails due to its use of certain plastic components.

Q1) Has Milwaukee addressed/corrected the lift-mechanism failure issue recently? I can't afford a separate, third-party lift at this time.

Q2) Is the Milwaukee 5625-20 considered a "standard fit" for third-party lifts? If/when the built-in lift mechanism does fail, I'd like to be able to find a third-party lift for it easily.

Thanks, Tom

scott spencer
05-01-2009, 1:56 PM
I've had a 5625 without a lift for a couple of years now....didn't even know about a lift-mechanism failure issue. It's a good tool IMO.

CPeter James
05-01-2009, 2:26 PM
I have been using mine in a table for about 4 years now with no problems. Be sure that the screw does not get filled with sawdust and filling the threads. That can cause a problem, but it is easy to clean. If you do get one, (and I would recommend it) and mount it in a table, turn the mounting 45º so that the height adjustment hole is NOT under you fence. This router will save your $250 to $300 because you do not need a separate mounting. It has worked great for me.

CPeter

Ben Cadotte
05-01-2009, 2:26 PM
I also have a 5625-20 table mounted and not sure whats to fail? Once the router is adjusted is has a body clamp like the others. The adjuster screw is metal. The nut may be plastic?? You push in a black plastic button to make large adjustments (bypass the screw). The router when unlocked adjusts smoothly for me. Maybe the nut wears out, or other have maybe tried to adjust with clamp pressure on, and doing so weakens the nut?? Not sure.

But I am very happy with it so far.

Ed Labadie
05-01-2009, 2:58 PM
The lift failures were very early in production, 3-4 years ago.
I bought mine when they first came out, it had the problem, showed up almost immediatelly, Milwaukee fixed it with no hassle.

IIRC, it was the spring loaded "half nut" in the base, there wasn't enough thread engagment to support the weight of the router. Start to turn the screw and the motor would fall. Just a .50 cent part that caused the grief.

Ed

glenn bradley
05-01-2009, 3:11 PM
I ran my 5625 for about a year without the lift. I had heard about the problem years ago but I never experienced it. I'm sure if you locked the base and cranked on the adjuster with the above-the-table wrench, it could fail. I eventually got a Woodpecker lift which comes in a few models to fit the 5625 specifically (no adapters required). The 5625 and the big Porter Cable seem to be the "standards" for router table locomotives if there is such a thing. You will LOVE this router but Milwaukees can become addicting. Don't be surprised if you start seeing a 5616-24 in your future. Ask an owner.

Robert Payne
05-01-2009, 5:45 PM
I've been using my Milwaukee 5625 for nearly two years in a router table and have not had any real problems with adjustments from above the table. The hole for the supplied T-wrench needs to be larger that the wrench head to allow clearance for the four rubber fingers that close in the router base to keep sawdust out or it can be difficult to remove the wrench. I usually make adjustments with the clamp partially open to avoid stress on the adjustment screw -- it is easy to adjust.

Would I rather have a lift? Sure, I'd love one of the Woodpecker PRL-V2 lifts that is made in a Milwaukee version. I just don't have $300 floating freely.

Tom Overthere
05-01-2009, 6:05 PM
Thanks, guys. I appreciate knowing that the height adjusting problem was likely either:

a) an early design flaw, simply remedied by replacing a minor part, and/or
b) users neglecting to loosen the appropriate part before raising-lowering

While waiting to hear back from you, I did indeed discover the Milwaukee 5616-24, Glenn. :D QUESTION: I know the optimal router table installation should probably be 3HP+. But would I likely "suffer greatly" if I used the 2-1/4 HP 5616-24 instead for awhile?

The stationary+plunge bases, plus the clear poly sub bases, plus the lower price have become a whispering chorus in my ear, "Get the smaller combo...You can add the 3.5HP 5625-20 under the table later, and switch the 2.25HP 5616-24 to freehand-only duty at that time..."

What do you guys think?


"I just don't have $300 floating freely." -- Robert Payne

Well put, Robert :D