Moving a Unisaw

[Jerry P. Doan]

I have a Unisaw with right table extension and shelf, on a Delta mobil base made for this combination. Due to the weight, it is difficult to move the Uni, and the wheels tend to leave black marks on the floor when I do move it.

I would appeciate any suggestions from anyone regarding modifications I might make to the mobil base to make it easier to move it. It is the kind with the foot levers.

[Jamie Buxton]

Jerry, my suggestion is to throw away your existing base. I've got a Unisaw, and this is what I did. I mounted two wheels on the side of the saw's base, on the side away from the extension table. The wheels are set so that they just clear the floor while you're sawing. To move the saw, I pull up on the fence rails on the extension table side. When I pick up, the wheels touch down on the floor, and the saw moves around just like a wheelbarrow. There are several good things about this scheme. First, it is inexpensive. Second, there are no moving parts -- unlike most caster schemes.
I did this to my saw over 25 years ago, and it is still going strong.

[Jerry P. Doan]

Jamie, what material are your wheels made from and how did you attach them? What is their thickness and diameter?

[JayStPeter]

I find the Delta Unisaw base to be fantastic. Is yours the one that is sold by Delta to fit the extended Unisaw? I have no problems at all with mine.
I have heard that a significant amount of extra weight (i.e. storage shelves under the extension) will cause the wheel with the lever to have problems. But, only with the mechanism that raises the base.

Jay St. Peter

[Jamie Buxton]

Jerry --
They're what's called "fixed casters". If you looked under a furniture dolly on the end that doesn't steer, that's what you'd find. They're available in most hardware stores. They have a wheel (4" rubber, about 1" wide), an axle, and a mount that is kinda like an upsidedown U. The upper part of the mount has four holes for bolting up to the the dolly or whatever. I mounted mine directly to the side of the saw's base. That is, the bolts are horizontal, instead of vertical like they normally go.

[Jerry P. Doan]

Jay- Yes it is the one made for the extended table. There is nothing at all stored on the shelf or on the saw when I move it. It is difficult for me to move, unlike my other machines. The wheels leave a few black marks on the floor when I do move it. I have wondered if the weight of the saw is deforming the wheels or the base slightly. The foot levers that raise and lower the saw do not seem to be a problem.

Jamie - Thanks. I get the idea. Since your solution is inexpensive and logical, I will try it.

[W.C. Turner]

Jerry,

Are you sure you have the rubber feet adjusted so they clear the ground when you're trying to move the saw?

[Stan Smith]

Mornin'

I have the jet unisaw (50"xacta) with an HTC base. The entire setup sets on the mobile base. It can be moved very easily, perhaps too easily. I have to be careful not to bump it too hard or it will move--even with the set bolt tightened down on the wheels. In my relatively small shop, I have everything on wheels. I've found this to be a great help. I've got my lathe for sale and had to roll it out to clean it up. I've made homemade mobile bases for some of my equipment including the bandsaw, dp and lathe. Got the plan from ShopNotes.

[Mike Vermeil]

Jamie,

Have you had any problems with racking the extension table/fence rails? What fence do you have?

I've been considering your setup for a while now, because I don't want to add any height or instability to the saw. I have a Unifence w/ long rail. I was worried about not having a rear rail that runs across the back of the saw as the fence rail does in the front. I was thinking of adding a piece of angle iron from the left rear corner of the saw table to the far right end of the extension table to be safe.

[Jamie Buxton]

Mike ---
I have not seen any problems with the ripfence rails. For perhaps ten years I had a Unisaw fence with 60" rails. (Maybe that fence was called "Jetlock"?) For the last fifteen years or so I've had a Paralock II with 60" rails. Both of these fences have rails at both front and back. The rails are darn stout, and they bolt to the saw's top with big bolts. (I also have a router hung under the saw's extension table, so I'm using these rails several different ways.) If I were to put a Besemeyer-style fence (which doesn't require a back rail) on the saw, I'd still bolt on a big angle iron at the back, to support these other uses.