Sawstop Version 1 Question

[Wes Billups]

I'm looking at a 5hp SawStop tomorrow that's two years old. This is model CB51230 versus the current ICS51230 they are currently selling. I was wondering what the differences are? I've scoured the internet and can't find a comparison. I'd also appreciate any recommendations on what to check out on the saw other than a normal cabinet saw. I've always looked these over in our Woodcraft and Woodwerks but never thought one would be within my reach financially.

Thanks,
Wes Billups

[Paul Ryan]

Wes,

I have a SS version 3 if you will (a PCS saw). However I think the older model you are talking about has been upgraded to a model with newer electronics. The new saws use a different cartridge that can detect different conductors easier. Meaning some of the older saws trigger the brake a little easier on materials that conduct compared to the new saws. But as far as I know the new cartridges are compatible with the older saws. If I were you I would give sawstop a call they would give you more info. What I do know is they have made some changes to the new saws and cartridges to eliminate some of the unexpected brake firings that have had from time to time.

[Kevin Groenke]

I'm not certain of all the differences or exactly when they occured but here are a few that I'm aware of:

The riving knife clamp/locating pins were changed slightly.
Motors came from a different supplier.
The main board in the control station changed slightly. (one is 9 pin another is 15?)
Miter gears on elevation mechanism changed from straight to helical.
Door interlock sensors were added early on, we don't have em.

Inspecting a SS shouldn't be different than any other machine. If any adjustment mechanisms aren't smooth, investigate to see if there is an obvious reason (dust build up, corrosion, too much grease, etc...) Check that the miter gauge slot is parallel to the blade : if it isn't, it's not a problem, but it is a clear indication that the current owner doesn't know what they're doing and should be ignored.

Closely inspect the elevation adjustment miter gears: make sure they mesh well and are undamaged. You might tilt the blade all the way to 45, sometimes this adjustment mechanism slips, this is easily remedied, but if it's off, it might be indicative of poor maintenance or other issues.

The saw will self-test each time it is switched on, theoretically if the blade starts spinning when you pull start, all is well and the saw will stop if you get into it.

You can confirm that the detection system is working by touching the side of the blade when the saw is switched on, BUT NOT SPINNING. A red light should come on on the control box when you touch the blade. Confirm that the bypass key is present and start the saw in bypass mode (the green light will be blinking on the control panel) you should be able to cut aluminum or other conductive materials (hot dog) when the saw is in bypass mode. You might further test the electronics by adjusting the blade/brake gap. This involves just turning an accessible socket head screw, if the gap is too big, indicator lights will blink and the saw will not start up.

I suppose if you wanted you could take (or offer to buy) a brake cartridge and do your own hot dog test.

The "main brain" is in the brake cartridge itself, so a new brake cartridge will provide any processor/diagnostic upgrades.

SawStop manuals are here:
http://www.sawstop.com/support/cabinet/manuals.php

If you're not familiar with anything I mentioned, the manual should clear it up.

Enjoy.
-kg