OMG!!! Not another TS opinion Thread PHULLEEZ

[Mark Versprille]

I've been butchering wood for 40+ yrs. and am still woefully ignorant of many things. This time it's about TS's.

I am putting together my first "real" shop and need to know what HP saw to get. What is the hardest/thickest wood you would cut with a 2HP or 3HP? Is there a big difference? Would going up to 5HP improve the quality of cuts due to the feed speed?

I have pretty much decided on a Griz (bang for the buck) and I like it's feel more than the other cabinet models in the same price features range. I am wiring the shop now and need to know what sized service to put in.

And if any one here has gotten a Griz with the attached router table, how difficult is it to install a router lift in it?

Thanks in advance, folks.

[Jason White]

I just bought the Grizzly 1023 with the router table. You can't put a lift in it because it doesn't accept an insert plate. The router is held in place underneath with little clamps.

As far as HP -- I got the 3HP because of the price. Cuts 8/4 red oak like butter. I get a little burning with hard maple using a 50 tooth combination blade, but the saw doesn't bog down at all. That said, I probably should have gotten the 5HP.

Good choice on the Grizzly. I love mine!

Jason


I've been butchering wood for 40+ yrs. and am still woefully ignorant of many things. This time it's about TS's.

I am putting together my first "real" shop and need to know what HP saw to get. What is the hardest/thickest wood you would cut with a 2HP or 3HP? Is there a big difference? Would going up to 5HP improve the quality of cuts due to the feed speed?

I have pretty much decided on a Griz (bang for the buck) and I like it's feel more than the other cabinet models in the same price features range. I am wiring the shop now and need to know what sized service to put in.

And if any one here has gotten a Griz with the attached router table, how difficult is it to install a router lift in it?

Thanks in advance, folks.

[Dick Bringhurst]

HP and type of blade are hard to separate. I currentyl have a 3 HP saw and it cuts most any thing I want without too much concern as to which blade I have on the saw. I had a 11/2 HP saw before and could do most anything I wanted BUT had to change blades to do so. I am not talking about blade manufacturer (Delta - Tenryu - Ridgid etc.) I mean the number of teeth per inch. I've ripped 2x oak with a Cman 1HP saw and and a rip blade than only had 12 teeth on it. Worked fine. 3HP seems to be the most common in the cabinet saws. Dick B.

[Jim Summers]

I have a 3hp TS. It cuts 8/4 maple, cherry, oak, just fine. Some burning on maple and cherry, but very little.

HTH

[glenn bradley]

My 1-3/4HP does a nice job on almost anything I throw at it. That said, if the opportunity came along and made sense, I would take 3HP in a heartbeat.

I would pass on any router extension wing that didn't allow a lift (or the quick swap of multiple routers/plates if that suits you). You can easily add this wing later and besides, routers belong to the left of the blade anyway (read a bit of humor there as this is truly a personal preference based on your layout).

The 1023 has a large and loyal following but the new saws offer riving knives. Hmmmm, "proven performer" or "reliable heritage but, new machine" . . . .Hmmmm. That is your (enjoyable) problem.

As I learn more and more about this sport and my approach to it I have learned that I would now spend the amount of money I would have formerly balked at to get the beast that will last me to the grave. Just my .02.

P.s. You could always save yourself the trouble and post this question on the EZ forum where all tablesaws are EVIL :D:D:D

[Ed Hazel]

I have the Grizz 1023 3hp It has never left me wishing for more power. I went with the Quality grinding 27 x 20 inch router table extension they made it with a miter slot and slots to mount a fence my router lift slipped right in it is slick.

[Tom Veatch]

...As far as HP -- I got the 3HP because of the price. Cuts 8/4 red oak like butter. I get a little burning with hard maple using a 50 tooth combination blade, but the saw doesn't bog down at all. That said, I probably should have gotten the 5HP....

If 3HP "cuts 8/4 red oak like butter" and "doesn't bog down at all", why would you need 5HP?

[Mark Versprille]

If 3HP "cuts 8/4 red oak like butter" and "doesn't bog down at all", why would you need 5HP?

That's the first time I've heard a Grunt not wanting more horse power:D

[Mark Boyette]

absolutely.. a 3HP is plenty. With a good blade all things are possible.

[Mark Versprille]

I'm going with the G0691 with a mobile base. Bigger table is safer for heavier/larger pieces. With the riving knife I will keep the guard on in more situations. 3 HP is twice as strong as any TS I've owned so burning/bogging probably won't be a problem considering what I'm used to (Rigid portable). I'm not going for the router extension table. It doesn't sound user friendly and I hope this is my last TS so resale isn't an issue. Now where is that Amazon.com link?

[Tom Veatch]

That's the first time I've heard a Grunt not wanting more horse power:D

'cause I bought a 3HP and misery loves company!:D

Not really. My 3HP Jet is in the "cuts like butter", "never bogs down" category, and I honestly can't see where running 2 extra horsepower that would likely never be used is any advantage - at least in my applications. Very well could be different in a heavy production shop.

Now if you'd said "firepower", a grunt never, never has too much of that. Unlimber the 16 inchers! :D:D

[scott spencer]

Mark - I've currently got a Shop Fox W1677 3hp saw (same as a Griz 1023SL). My previous two saws were 2hp and 1-3/4hp...with proper setup and good blade selection, there was nothing those saws struggled with much to cut, but they were more sensitive to those factors. The 3hp saw hogs through just about anything with less regard to blade choice, sharpness, etc. It's hard to imagine needing more than 3hp for hobby work. 5hp won't hurt a thing, but I doubt you'll see any improvement in cut quality from the added horsepower. The end cutting performance really boils down to proper setup and blade selection.

Enjoy your new saw and be safe!

[Jason White]

Did you have to add legs to support the router table? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and wonder whether the saw might get tippy without legs.

Jason


I have the Grizz 1023 3hp It has never left me wishing for more power. I went with the Quality grinding 27 x 20 inch router table extension they made it with a miter slot and slots to mount a fence my router lift slipped right in it is slick.

[Myk Rian]

Since everyone else has spoken about what hp saw to get, it's time for the power question.
If you can swing 100 amp service, do it. 60 amp minimum. Use a breaker box big enough for plenty of 20 amp service outlets, and 2 to 4 220 volt, 20 amp supplies.

[Mark Versprille]

Since everyone else has spoken about what hp saw to get, it's time for the power question.
If you can swing 100 amp service, do it. 60 amp minimum. Use a breaker box big enough for plenty of 20 amp service outlets, and 2 to 4 220 volt, 20 amp supplies.

Oddly enough that's exactly what is planned. 100 amp box with ten slots. right off the bat there will be two 220 v. circuits and two 110 v. and one for lighting. I'm using 14 gauge romex for lighting 12 gauge for the 110 and 10 gauge for the 220 lines. Anything else I should be thinking about on the sparky stuff?

[Scott T Smith]

I have a G0605X (12", 5 hp) and really like it a lot. The extra HP is nice to have.

[glenn bradley]

Just as a barometer; I put in a 12 slot box and have 3 left and my lights aren't on it.

[Mark Versprille]

Many people use your shop at one time, Glen? How many machines are going at once?

[Jason White]

Because it was only about $100 more.


If 3HP "cuts 8/4 red oak like butter" and "doesn't bog down at all", why would you need 5HP?

[Bob Genovesi]

My 1-3/4HP does a nice job on almost anything I throw at it. That said, if the opportunity came along and made sense, I would take 3HP in a heartbeat.

I would pass on any router extension wing that didn't allow a lift (or the quick swap of multiple routers/plates if that suits you). You can easily add this wing later and besides, routers belong to the left of the blade anyway (read a bit of humor there as this is truly a personal preference based on your layout).

The 1023 has a large and loyal following but the new saws offer riving knives. Hmmmm, "proven performer" or "reliable heritage but, new machine" . . . .Hmmmm. That is your (enjoyable) problem.

As I learn more and more about this sport and my approach to it I have learned that I would now spend the amount of money I would have formerly balked at to get the beast that will last me to the grave. Just my .02.

P.s. You could always save yourself the trouble and post this question on the EZ forum where all tablesaws are EVIL :D:D:D

Glenn pretty much sums up my situation as well.

For the most part no one cuts 8/4 or 2" Oak or Maple on a regular basis. I have a 1 3/4 HP Jet Contractors saw that's wired for 220 volts and it too cuts anything I push through it.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s225/BobbyG53/Jet-01.jpg

If money was no object I would love to have a nice 3 HP cabinet saw but this would be a want and not a need. I would not opt for the router station in the table extension, I like to keep my equipment separate.

For saws I think I'd opt for the Grizzly G0651 or a General 650.

[Matt Day]

As far as the wiring is concerned, I'd wire it as heavy duty as possible. If you get a 3hp now and upgrade to 5hp at some point, do you really want to pull new wire everywhere?

[Lee Mitchell]

FWIW....

I've had a Grizzly 3hp 1080s since 2001. It's done everything I've asked of it over the years. If I had to buy again, I'd buy it again, without any hesitation.

Mine has the short rails. Just finished adding a homemade router table to the ends of those rails. Mounted a router with above table adjustment, so a router lift isn't needed. Now the saw fence does dual duty.

Ordered these fence clamps for sacrificial fences on either side. I see they are on sale now. I paid full price, but they're worth it. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17821

As to power, I added a 200amp panel in my shop. It was probably overkill, but there'll be no worries about slot availability for whatever comes along in the future.

Hope these thoughts are useful.

[John Carlo]

I was disappointed to find out too late that My Sears cabinet say could not accommodate my Freud Dial A Width dado set at wider settings. Be sure the arbor length can handle 13"16 and you have the horses to do so.

[Mike Wilkins]

You can't go wrong with the 3 horse Griz. Unless you are running a pro shop and ripping a thousand linear feet of hardwoods daily, this should be more than enough for your needs. I went from a Rockwell/Delta Unisaw with 1 1/2 horses to a Laguna slider with 4 HP. SWEET.
As for electrons; I went with a 100 amp panel with 2-240 volt breakers and the rest 20 amp. 2 circuits for the lights on separate switches, and separate feeds for the outlets. #12 for all the 110 and #10 for the 240. I used commercial grade outlets and switches because they are built heavier, can withstand more useage, and they were on clearance(always a plus).
Good luck and stay safe.

[Caleb Larru]

I just bought and am in the process of putting together the G0651. I was impressed with the packaging and shipping. I had it delivered to one of my warehouses and then loaded it on my trailer to take home.

If it wouldn't have been for Larry coming over, it would still be sitting on my trailer. :o

If you want table space and ability to cut full sheets the G0651 is the way to go.

[Philip Johnson]

One thing to keep in mind may be resale. I had a 3hp and never really needed more but when I bought a new pm 66 a while back the price was only about 150 more for 5hp. He said the resale is better because most shops want the 5 hp. That being said I don't think I notice much difference in normal use between 3 and 5hp.

[Mark Versprille]

Well, things change overnight. A cabinet shop in Brooklyn is closing up. They have a one year old 1023SL for $750. That sound about right for a price?

[Lee Mitchell]

Grizzly has the 1023 series with free shipping right now. Prices start at 1075.

Sounds like you may have found one for a good price. Unless it was in high production use. I'd say a good buy if from a small shop. OTOH, if it's been "ridden hard and put up wet", with tons of MDF, it may not be. Wear and tear could have already taken a considerable toll.

Guess I'd want to know more about how it was used.

Hope this helps, a bit.