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rick sandor
04-28-2009, 1:24 PM
Hi everybody,
I typically lurk but in this case I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.I'm looking to get a jointer plane and need some advice between bevel up vs bevel down.
I will use it to flatten boards and joint edges. I'm a hobbyist that spends a few hours a week in the shop (if I'm lucky). Because of time constraints my primary goal is to get it right the first time. I'm aware of Chris Schwarz's pro and con arguments. I realize that ultimately it will be my own hands on experience that will be the judge but but I think the collective wisdom here is a great start.
Thanks,
Rick

Michael Faurot
04-28-2009, 3:09 PM
I have a Stanley and Record No.7 and both do just fine for jointing. For flattening panels, I like a No.6, but that's just personal preference.

Either a bevel-down or a bevel-up will work. The bevel-up may give you some additional options though, especially if you're using it to flatten. With the bevel-up you'd have the option to to easily switch out different blades, each ground to a different angle.

If cost is a big cocnern, you can probably find a vintage No.7 for under $100. You're not as likely to find a used bevel-up jointer, so then you'd be looking at $350 from Lie-Nielsen or $279 from Veritas.

Jim Koepke
04-28-2009, 3:55 PM
Rick,

Welcome to the Creek, come on in the water is fine.

Your profile does not show a location. Look at the Lie-Nielsen show page:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/?pg=1

If you live anywhere near where they are having a show, you should go and get a hands on trial of what they have to offer.

You do not mention if you already have any other planes.

My opinion of bevel up planes is limited to the block planes in my shop.

Michael mentions a #6. One advantage of this plane is it has gotten a bad rap from Patrick Leach on his Blood & Gore site. This has their price lower than any other plane. I have two #6s that cost a total of $45 for both of them. One was missing some parts, but I have been stashing parts for years, so that was not a problem.

Until recently, my opinion was a #7 was fine for a joiner. Just recently bought a #8 and my mind has been changed. The #8 is heavier, but the balance feels better to me. My thoughts were also that there was no need for a #6. That may be true, but my pre-lateral #6 gets picked up a lot for a work out.

So, it comes down to the idea that what ever choice you make, it will likely be a good one. Getting some hands on experience may be the only way to really decide. Make sure the ones you give a trial have equally sharp blades.

The alternative is to put pencil to paper and make a list of what you will be using the plane for, then have one column for BU and one for BD and put an X in the column where one plane is better suited for the need than the other.

Also remember that no matter what anyone suggests, it is based on their own needs and uses. I like old Stanley/Bailey planes. Many folks like Stanley Bedrock planes. My preference is for the rounded sides and not the flat top sides. I also like lower cost. The old Baileys are a good value. They may require a few hours to clean up if bought at a yard sale or auction. If you purchase one from a source like Brass City Records, you will likely have something that works out of the box.

jim

Sam Takeuchi
04-28-2009, 4:28 PM
And I think it really depends on the size of boards you are going to be working on. If you'll be working on a board longer than, say 2', probably #7 and #8 will come in handy, but if less than that, maybe #6 will be plenty. I see a lot of nice #6 on the 'Bay, like others say, they are cheaper than the rest of the Stanley single digit family for the most part. I am tempted to get one, but I always tell myself that I have no need for it since I have a LV BU jack and #7. But before I got a #7, size of material I often work with were the thing of concern. Whether #7 would be over kill or #6 would do the job. I even though about getting a transitional #29 since 20" length was ideal. In the end I got a #7 because I found one at a good deal, but to be honest, I still think 20" length would suit me better.

In the end, if it's too big for what you do, it only becomes unwieldy. So it's something to consider about, I think.

Danny Thompson
04-28-2009, 9:49 PM
I'm a big bevel-up fan. Foir a hobbyist with fewer planes, the bevel-up version is a lot more flexible because you can vary the microbevel to match the grain in question, including the low angle, which is very good on edge grain.

Tri Hoang
04-28-2009, 10:15 PM
I have a few bevel up planes but would reconsider Veritas BU jointer due to the fact that you can't use its sides/sole as a quick check for flat during planing. If i've done it again, it's probably a #8. Personally, the weight of the jointer is not as important as the balance...how it feels in my hands.

David Gendron
04-28-2009, 10:50 PM
I'm with Tri on this one, I have both, the LV BU jointer and a 608(bedrock) from Stanley and I love the Stanley, I meen the LV is a great plane but I use it more as a large smoother and to thrue end grain on larger panels(who don't fit my shooting board) or if i have tricky grain that the 608 wouldn't perform as well!

If I had only 3 planes, it would be a 4 1/2(that I don't have) a #6 and #8.
David

Derek Cohen
04-29-2009, 1:00 AM
Hi Rick

This may help, a comparison between the Veritas BU Jointer and the Stanley (BD) #7...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Lee%20Valley%20Bevel%20Up%20Jointe r_html_528c4e40.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Lee%20Valley%20Bevel%20Up%20Jointe r.html

Regards from Perth

Derek