I'm having some newbie issues

[Matt Ranum]

Most of the playing around I've done with the lathe has been done with a faceplate and glue blocks since I don't have a chuck, but I was using the drive spur tonight on a piece of square Maple that was about 3"x3"x6" long. I rapped the drive spur into the end of the wood with a mallet and almost immediately after starting with a gouge the spur stripped out the wood. So I then took a hand saw and cut a shallow "X" in the end and seated the spur into that. It was a better result but still ended up ripping out the cogs.

Eventually I was able to get the corners somewhat rounded off then my troubles were over, but why all the trouble? My tools were throwing nice shavings after the piece was fairly round, and I started with very light cuts.

I was running about 800 RPM with a loose belt that will slip with a good catch when using a faceplate.

One other thing, there are times when I'm hogging off material that the chips get pretty dang hot. Does that mean my tools are not sharp enough?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Matt

I've had similar problems when using a drive spur and it sounds like you did everything correct to seat the spur. Did you use enough tailstock pressure? Any chance the tailstock position on the bed was slipping? Hard to troubleshoot with out actually being there....... but you had to have been taking some fairly good cuts to get the wood to seize / cause the spur to strip out the wood. Next time - use light cuts starting on just a small section at the end of the wood. Then slowly expand the area you are working on. You shouldn't have any problems once the wood has been rounded over.

Hot chips are a common problem when you are turning dry wood. I wear a glove on my left hand for just such a reason!

[Jim Koepke]

I wear a glove on my left hand for just such a reason!

One thing I learned early was how a loose glove can get caught in spinning things. I bought a pair of tight gloves at a close out store and snipped the finger tips off. These are great in a cold shop and they also let me work on the lathe without getting the fabric close to the action.

jim

[Dewey Torres]

Matt,
I had the same exact problem and once I bought this (http://www.pennstateind.com/store/headstock-drive-centers.html) and (in addition) honed my sharpening and tool presentation skills, the problem disappeared.

My .000000000000000000000000000000002 cents
(I am a newbie also, so it will take a while before I can actually add a whole 2 cents):o

[Matt Ranum]

Thanks guys at least I'm not alone. I just saw those spurs the other day and was wondering about their grip. Looks pretty good.

Jim, aint physics wonderful:p rotation + speed + adhesion = stinging fingers:p

[Greg Haugen]

Matt,
Those drives that Dewey mentioned are just as good as the Sorby versions that are almost 3 times as much. They do still slip in the event of a heavy cut or catch. As previously mentioned make sure your tailstock isn't slipping.

Four prong drives will either drive the piece through a tornado or continually slip and become a forstner bit. As you turn more you'll learn a lighter touch with the tool and that will help with breaking the drive loose.

I see you're in Central Wisconsin. If you're ever in the La Crosse area, feel free to contact me and we'll do some turning.

Have fun.

[Burt Alcantara]

Spurs suck. Plain and simple. Fortunately, I haven't turned anything small lately so I use the Godzilla spur made by Bill Rubinstein (http://stubbylatheusa.com/Convertible_Drive_Center.100.pdf)

It's a huge spur but nothing slips and holds on like an octopus. I have a 1" steb for the smaller stuff but will get slippage and shredding with certain woods.

You're not doing anything wrong. Just one of those turning things.

Burt

[Wally Dickerman]

I have better luck using a 2-prong spur.....After you've seated the spur, remove it and apply some thin CA glue to firm up the wood. You'll have a lot fewer problems with spinning spurs.

Wally

[Matt Ranum]

Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated.

[Curt Fuller]

At just 3x3x6 I'm thinking I'd spin that considerably faster than 800 rpms, maybe around 2000 or so. A faster speed reduces the time the tool is in the air between corners and seems to grab a smaller bite out of the wood with each contact. Also make sure you have adequate pressure from the tailstock end.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have 2 of those PSI drives. They work pretty good in hardwoods, but I think it's faster to pound the spur into the softer woods. You'll need to drill a hole in the blank for the spring pin to work, otherwise the blank may just pop off. Not all the way off, but pop off-center enough to scare the heck out of you. They also don't work well in blanks that are not square to the drive. Awesome for spindle work.

Yeah, I had the spur drive dig out my blank, so I bought the PSI drives.

[Gordon Seto]

I agree with Curt. Speed helps (as long as you are comfortable & feel safe).
Where did you start the cut on the blank? If you start from air cutting towards the end of the blank, your tool may catch the corner of the square blank. The blank is also likely to chip out. It is better to start a little from the end and cut towards the end on both ends.
You said the troubles were over after the corners were rounded off. I suspect this may be the reason.
Maple of that size shouldn't be any problem with any drive centers recommended. I used the safe drive a lot.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Drive_Centers___Safe_Driver___ safe_driver?Args=
With a safe drive, it will not rip anything when the blank slips. All you have to do is give it more pressure from tailstock.
I attended a demonstration by Mark Sfirri. He said he uses the safe drive exclusively for over a decade on spindles. He turns large unbalanced turnings. If it is sufficient for him, it should be good for regular spindles.
BTW, the Stubby spur recommended by Burt is one of the best for natural edge bowls. It is convertible for 2-prong drive. I don't think it is for mini lathes.

[Ruth Niles]

The 2-spur drive is the way to go. With the 4 spur, you now have 4 little blades that are just waiting to drill a hole! I just zip a cut on my bandsaw and tap the drive center into it. It's also easier to do one thin cut than try to center an X.

I like Wally's tip about the CA, that will be great for softer woods.

The 800 rpms seemed slow to me, too, but I like higher speed, it is easier for me to cut and control the tool. Maybe 1200 - 1800 until you feel comfortable.

Have fun, be careful.

Ruth

[Matt Ranum]

Speed may be the biggest issue I was having. I didn't think about it before but makes sense. Also I did start in the center and work to the outside, maybe not the smartest move on my part either.

Thanks for all the advice and help. You guys are great!:)

[Roger Alexander]

Hello Matt,
I like other turners will use a higher speed also. But before i put the spure drive in place. I mark the center with a punch then will mark out the drive spurs with a pen. Then i take a wood chisle and use that to drive a slot where the spir drive teeth will hit. Make sure the slant is on the same side as your drive is. Gosh hope this makes somekind of sence to you. I do this with both soft and hard wood and make sure the tail stock is up like it should be

[Tony Kahn]

Seems your drive spur problem has been well addressed, but i might be able to help with the heat thing. I try to play golf once in a while, i got tired of the heat from dry wood and retired an older golf glove to the shop. Nice tight fit and still a good feel on the tool, Works so good now i buy the tommy armour 2 packs from Sam's club and take them straight to the shop rather than golf bag.