Help w/Church Table Design

[Waymon Campbell]

I am looking for comments or suggestions for improvement on the table design. The table is to be placed in the foyer of my church. The top will be 20"x42"x3/4" bloodwood. Apron and legs will be curly walnut. Height will be 32". The three crosses pictured on the apron will be inlayed with a contrasting wood (I am thinking maple). Finish will likely be BLO with a spray satin lacquer top coat.

Any suggestions for improvement would be greatly appreciated.

[Keith Starosta]

Waymon, about the only thing that I can think to add would maybe be some nice breadboard ends on the tabletop. Other than that, it looks like a really nice, simple design suitable for your church.

I'm looking forward to the finished product!!

Keith

[David Klug]

I don't know how this table will be used but a small board in the back and a short one on the sides might be useful.

DK

[Jamie Buxton]

Have you considered making the crosses as piercings? Y'know, cut them all the way through the apron?

[Chris Padilla]

Ebony crosses might be nice or you could do 1 maple cross, 1 ebony cross, and 1 piercing cross as Jamie suggested. :) It is fun designing someone elses table!

Will the drawer fronts be part of the apron so they match? They could be another spot for contrasting wood or matching the top maybe.

[Jim Becker]

All good suggestions, although I wouldn't prefer the breadboard ends that Don suggests. I like the simplicity of the design without them. Assuming you're leaving the drawer fronts in curly walnut (too much contrast would take away from the table) I'll suggest you do things such that the drawer fronts are cut out of the apron board for an exact grain match across the piece. I posted a technique for that in the "Shaker Student Desk" project article on my site that I've used and seen used. Do pick your lumber for the apron carefully if you do that, however...best to have straight grain at the top and bottom of the apron to accomodate "seamless" seams when you cut it all apart and reassemble. I do like the piercing idea for the crosses, too...classic.

[Jamie Buxton]

Waymon --
I haven't ever worked with bloodwood. However, my experience with other red woods is that they age to brown. A piece which looks really striking when it leaves the workshop looks very different in a couple of years.

Jamie

[Carl Eyman]

Among this talented group one feels like the fool going in where angels . . ., etc. But here goes: The minute I saw the picture - which I think is super, I wondered how it would look with the french legs Norm used a couple of years ago. Like this:

[Todd Burch]

Waymon, if you can find some, maybe you could use dogwood for the crosses, as that is what I understand was used in the "real deal", and also why it does not grow to the sizes big enough to ever be used again for that purpose.

I would suggest the size of the bottom of the leg be 1/2 the size of the top of the leg. A "v" groove around the leg where the leg starts to taper might be a nice transition.

A small 45° chamfer cut all around the bottom of the leg is handy so that when the table is drug across the floor, and it will be, it won't chip or splinter.

If the top overhang allows for enough room, 1¾" or more, a bevel cut underneath looks nice - it gives the table a lighter look. Leave about 3/8" of edge showing. Breadboards don't work well with a bottom bevel.

(psst - don't tell nobody, but spend more time on the finish on the top than the rest of the piece, as that is what gets oohed and awed at most!! )

Todd

[Jeff Evans]

I think the drawers may take away from the crosses in the center. I would not do the drawers unless they are necessary. You may want to consider inlaying the crosses in an light colored oval (maple?). Maybe a little sand burnt shading in the oval to create a hill and walnut or similar wood for the crosses.

Jeff Evans

[Jim Becker]

Jeff makes an excellent point...so if you need the drawers, consider putting them in the end aprons, rather than the front. They are small as drawn and should fit just fine.

[Waymon Campbell]

Excellent ideas everyone. I will definitely incorporate a few of them.

[Chris Padilla]

Waymon,

You need to get 4 or 5 of us to "sign-off" on the design and if you want to do any changes after that, you need to run it by the same 4 or 5 to get further sign-offs...it's a pain but it is for the best.... ;)

[Bart Sharp]

I am looking for comments or suggestions for improvement on the table design. The table is to be placed in the foyer of my church. The top will be 20"x42"x3/4" bloodwood. Apron and legs will be curly walnut. Height will be 32". The three crosses pictured on the apron will be inlayed with a contrasting wood (I am thinking maple). Finish will likely be BLO with a spray satin lacquer top coat.

Any suggestions for improvement would be greatly appreciated.

I hope you don't mind a couple of comments from a rank amateur. To my eye, it looks like the legs taper a little bit too much. It makes them look chunky at the top and weak at the bottom. And I'm not sure I like the way the rectangular drawer fronts interact with the curve on the bottom of the apron. It won't be nearly as noticable on the finished piece with the apron and drwaer fronts made from a single board compared to a black on white line drawing, but it might be something to look at. Maybe curve the bottom of the drawer fronts to mimic the apron or something.

I love the idea of the crosses being inlaid using maple. I built a walnut bible box for my aunt last year and really wanted to do an inlaid maple cross, but I knew I didn't have the skills to pull it off and I didn't want to screw up an otherwise nice box trying something new. On your table I might even be inclined to use straight-grained walnut for the apron and curly maple for the inlay, really emphasize the focal point.

[Pete Lamberty]

I am one that usually tends toward simplicity. I think the form of the table should speak for itself. To many bells and whistles only detract from the overall design. I would make the whole table out of walnut. Straight grain for the top and legs and curly for the aprons if you have to. I would carve the crosses into the apron or use an ebony inlay, for a subtle look. People will look at the whole table when it is made simply instead of individual parts when a bunch of doodads are put on it. Make the viewer "discover" the beauty of the table instead of hitting him over the head with stuff to look at.

[Waymon Campbell]

Waymon,

You need to get 4 or 5 of us to "sign-off" on the design and if you want to do any changes after that, you need to run it by the same 4 or 5 to get further sign-offs...it's a pain but it is for the best.... ;)

Do you have a form for that? :D

Also, the four or five of you will have to form a committee that meets for several hours each week to go over all details, discuss pros vs cons, and produce volumous paperwork explaining it all!

[Dan Gill]

I like the design, although I wonder what the drawers are for. If you don't have a use for them, I'd eliminate them.

Will the inlaid/pierced crosses be easily visible by a person of average height? If not, you might consider a back piece rising above the top.