Table Saw Insert

[Dan Stuewe]

One of the many things I dislike about my table saw is the insert. I have an inexpensive Craftsman that has a 1/16" thick steel insert. I think some of the benchtop saws have something similar. Anyway, I would love to make a zero clearance insert for my saw, but I've been concerned about the thin material resting on the lip of the saw table. I've thought I could use thicker material and the route the edge to the correct thickness, but I would have little margine for adjustment. And would I trust that thin of a piece of MDF or plywood. Would solid hardwood be a good choice? What do you think? If you've had this problem, what have you done?

BTW, the "sad" face on the fence was there when I bought the saw :rolleyes: - honest.

[Greg Heppeard]

Good Luck, Dan. You might think about finding a couple of metal replacements (like the ones that came with the saw) and fabricating a replacable wooden insert into them. I've seen something like that made commercially for other saws. As to the fence, I've seen a lot worse.

[Ralph Steffey]

I have a simular saw I take out on trim jobs and if I need zero clearence I just put a piece of 1/4 inch masonite on top of the table and run the blade up thru it. This works good for 4 different widths by turning the board. If you need more than 4 widths just make two boards.

[Dan Bundy]

I have a Craftsman, too, but a different model. Still, the insert is pretty thin. I use 1/2 or 3/4 MDF or plywood and rabbet the edge after using the original as a pattern. Then I run it over a dado ~3/8 wide to provide some clearance for the blade before it's raised through (you could also start with a smaller diam blade and raise it through first, then replace with regular blade). Hope this helps. DB

[John Christiansen]

You can see the insert on my Craftsman saw, it is a 1/4" thick piece of luane(sp?) but my old insert was the same stamped tin thing you have, The leveling tabs allow the 1/8" or so steel to be set into the 1/4" recess and ride flush with the surface of the saw. At least that's how it worked in mine. Check your actuall recess depth.

And you need something like this on your fence.

http://www.jcshop.netfirms.com/oldrip.JPG

[Dave Moran]

Dan, is it possable that you could make an insert to go under the existing dado plate and protrude flush with the top of the plate? Being the cutout has square corners, it should be possable to raise the center section by building a tall fence to support the future zero clearance insert. Mounting can be with double sided patern tape, that stuff really sticks.

Dave

[Don Abele]

Dan, I used to own a Craftsman with the same type of insert. I made a replacement one with 3/8 inch lexan (plexiglass). I routed spots out for the 4 tabs on the saw that support it. At those points the lexan was only maybe 1/8 inch thick. Used it for 4 or 5 years with no problems.

[Jim Becker]

Lee S recently posted about his new Craftsman insert he had milled by a local machinist. It features replacable wood inserts. Since it's made from aluminum, it's more than strong enough at the edges, especially since the additional thickness (3/8" I think) stiffens up the whole thing. He had it at Five Barns last weekend and it's impressive. Perhaps you can have one made locally in the same manner.

[Hal Flynt]

I glued some 1/4" Hardboard, rough side to rough side, then cut some oversize blanks. Next I used a trim router bit to make the profile. I fine tuned one to call the Master and made the rest from it. I Cut the mounting point pads with a mortizing bit to where the insert would sit about 1/16 to 1/32 below the surface. Drilled holes and screwed in some allen head set screw to level. (The first one I tapped and then screwed in the set screws and it tool too long, so I ended up with drilling a hole the was very tight and let the set screws make the threads which works great.)

I think I ended up with 6 blanks out of an 18" x 24" or so scrap piece of masonite.


Your mileage may vary.