How do you cool your shop?

[Jason White]

Getting hot in my unfinished garage shop.

It's not insulated, so A/C isn't really an option (yet).

Was thinking about getting one of those industrial-sized jobsite fans for at least moving the air around in my one-car garage. Any thoughts?

Jason

[Lee Schierer]

My shop is cooled geothermally. Actually it is connected to the house and is heated and cooled by the house system, which is a geothermal heat and A/C system. I instralled air filters in the return air inlets to prevent sawdust from getting into the rest of the system.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I parasite off the house HVAC

[Myk Rian]

I open the garage door.
For the 90º+ days I have a fan.

[Brian Kent]

I point the air filter fan towards me. I would get a window AC unit if I didn't already blow the circuits with too much plugged in at once (dryer and belt sander).

[Dewey Torres]

Wait until winter.:)

[Cody Colston]

My shop is insulated and I put a 18,000 btu window unit in the wall. It does pretty well except on those 100 degree days when I'm running the DC a lot. The Oneida cyclone really heats the air that it returns through the filter.

[Bruce Volden]

Two years ago I "foamed" my shop. Now I have no need for AC, tho I do have a fan to move air as it can get somewhat humid. Hey, I don't even need a fridge for the beverages as it stays "drinkable" (was stationed in Germany for 7 years!!)

Bruce

[Peter Quinn]

My shop is also geothermally cooled; it is in a basement with 12" thick concrete walls largely below grade. Never gets above 72 degrees, never gets below 62 degrees. Makes me wish my whole house were below grade. My cat spends the summer down there, wonder why the rest of the family isn't so smart? Global warming? Not in my shop.

[John Thompson]

Like Lee.. my rear shop (1/2 basement) is covered by the Central Air Unit leak off. It basically sits below ground with 12' ceiling and has thick, poured concrete walls. The front shop (double car garage is has the same poured concrete founddation walls that start at 4' and move to 7' where the garage and basment walls meet. The area area above the concrete has sheet rock walls with R 19.

And.. I have trees surrounding the house which shades much sun. Add a 20" floor fan on a mobile base for summer. A natural gas space heater keeps the shop at a toasty 70 degrees in winter so... I have a all year working shop. A little warm and humid in the warm Georgia summers but.. I spent a year in Vietnam with 105* in the shade with 70 lbs. strapped to my back.

If I get too warm... I sit in front of the fan or take a break in the 1/2 basement where it stays around 70 year round with CA leak off. I can't complain and simply don't.

Sarge..

[Dave Sharpe]

moved to the NorthWest.....:)

[Don Dorn]

Well insulated but just shy of 500 sq feet. Will try a 5k air conditioner for the first time and we'll see how it goes. Up until now, I too opened the garage door and used a fan.

[Stephen Edwards]

Lots of windows for fresh air. Cool? Like Dewey said, wait till winter.

[Glen Blanchard]

I had a Mitsubishi split-air A/C/Heat unit installed a few years ago in my one car garage shop. I can bring the temp down to the high 60's when it is 100+ degree day......plus it heats during the winter.

[Jim Kountz]

Mine is well insulated so most days a fan does the job but for the hot days I have a window unit. It does the job just fine but gotta keep an eye on the filter. I clean it out every two days of use during the summer.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Well insulated 24 x 24 shop with 8K btu energy star window ac. Have it set to keep the humidity of the muggy Indiana summers down. Always comfortable.

[Todd Burch]

I have a free standing 1200 square foot garage, 3 cars wide, 2 cars deep, partially insulated. I have a 16' door and an 8' door in the front (north), and an 8' door in the back (south). I get a good breeze through it in the spring and fall. Plus, 4 windows.

When it gets hot and there is no breeze, I turn on the 30" 3 speed pedestal fan and maybe a couple others, one of which is a recycled squirrel cage. It'll blow you away.

Finally, when it gets REALLY hot, I close the doors, close the windows, and turn on the 3.5 ton AC system. (Or, when it's cold, the 100K BTU heater). :D

[Chris Damm]

I use a 5000 btu window AC. My 25x25x9 shop is very well insulated (R20 sidewalls and R40 ceiling).

[Mike Cutler]

Jason

We're not that far apart geographically so I have the same issues( garage shop), both with heating, and cooling. My shop has a vapor barrier and drywall on the inside, but no insulation.
The fan (a large barn fan from tractor supply) works a bit, and does it make it more bearable, but I still end up getting the sweat on my hands on my machines, tools and materials that has to be cleaned up. I also can't store my hand tools in the shop due to humidity, or leave any machines exposed. It sucks to have to break everything down each day.

I'm going to bite the bullet this year and pull all of the drywall down, and do a proper insulation job. Maybe even make it bigger.;)
My advice would be to insulate the walls if at all possible and then get a portable AC unit in there.

[Jim O'Dell]

20 X 24 main shop and a side room that's 12 X 14. 5 windows total, and a 10' wide door to the south. I open the south facing doors and windows and turn the Clear Vue on! It exhausts outside, so creates quite a breeze. Naw, just kidding. :D:D:D
I've got a 20" tilting fan that I can set on one of the benches to blow at me. The shop is pretty well covered with trees, so that helps a lot. I've got R13 in the walls, and basically nothing in the ceiling yet. I plan on blowing insulation in pretty deep when I can. But the fan blowing on me makes it bearable. I do have a place roughed in for a PTAC, but I want my cabinet saw first!!!! Jim.

[David G Baker]

Mike,
You could possibly save tearing your drywall down by having the walls foamed. The installers cut a couple of plugs in the drywall in between the studs and shoot the foam into the wall and it expands to fill the void. It is not the high density foam but it is the type that is generally recommended for living space insulation of wall spaces. It is not cheap but it is probably cheaper than removing your old drywall, adding insulation and putting up new drywall. The plugs can be easily covered and no one will be the wiser.

[Charles Lent]

My shop is an insulated 14 X 26 outbuilding. In one end wall I have a 22,000 BTU window style heat pump mounted up high thru the wall. It does a fine job of both heating and cooling the shop. It also makes a pretty good airborne dust collector. I have added 12 x 24" filters to the intake and need to clean or replace them every few weeks.

Charley

[David Hostetler]

I started to use a "Mini wall" which jams a window unit A/C between the wall, and the door opening. I slide it in place, I close the door over it all... Then jam an old sleeping bag in the door gap on the top...

I am unhappy with the performance so far. So I have since switched to simply opening the kitchen door, setting a box fan in, and blowing cold air into the shop. (Attached garage workshop).

Honestly, opening the garage doors, and just getting the air moving works WAY better than the window unit rig.

[Jason White]

Or just blow in cellulose. Much cheaper than foam and works really well. Also you can rent the machine and do it yourself.

Jason


Mike,
You could possibly save tearing your drywall down by having the walls foamed. The installers cut a couple of plugs in the drywall in between the studs and shoot the foam into the wall and it expands to fill the void. It is not the high density foam but it is the type that is generally recommended for living space insulation of wall spaces. It is not cheap but it is probably cheaper than removing your old drywall, adding insulation and putting up new drywall. The plugs can be easily covered and no one will be the wiser.

[Ben Franz]

I installed a PTAC/heat pump through the side wall. Ptacs are the combo heater/AC units used in motel rooms. Just put it in last fall so this summer will be the first test of the AC function. The heater was great this winter - brought the 450 sqft. shop up to 65 in about 20 minutes from high 30s. Shop is a converted garage with R13 walls and R30 lid, fully sheetrocked. PTAC purchased on Ebay for $500 IIRC + shipping.

[Mike Cutler]

Mike,
You could possibly save tearing your drywall down by having the walls foamed. The installers cut a couple of plugs in the drywall in between the studs and shoot the foam into the wall and it expands to fill the void. It is not the high density foam but it is the type that is generally recommended for living space insulation of wall spaces. It is not cheap but it is probably cheaper than removing your old drywall, adding insulation and putting up new drywall. The plugs can be easily covered and no one will be the wiser.

David

I've actually thought about that, but for me it would be easier to just remove it.
When I started back up in woodworking, 1992, it wasn't with the intent to build furniture and make it as big a hobby as I have. It was more to have a space to work on home renovation projects without having to move the cars all the time.
I put up the vapor and sheetrock,and some closeout special lights, ran some rough electrical circuits, and stopped there.
The sheetrock was purchased white, to reflect the light,and was never taped and mudded, so all of the screws can be backed out easy enough and the drywall rehung, and then properly taped and mudded.
As this hobby has evolved, I'd like to be able to work more year round if possible, and actually turn it into a "proper shop".

As for the blown in insulation: I've been slowly removing it from my house,and replacing it with rolled insulation. It was used throughout my second floor, roof and attic, and has since compressed between the joists in the attic. What was 10"+ between the attic joists in 1992 was less than 6" last year, and it has sagged and compacted in the walls so I now have cold spots. It was originally installed in 1980, so I guess it's at the end of it's life Maybe the newer material is better?:confused:

[David G Baker]

Mike,
Instead of removing the blown in ceiling insulation, you could roll non backed fiberglass rolls across the ceiling joists or just roll it on top of the existing insulation.
Didn't realize the drywall was screwed on, I too would remove it and re install it after insulating, probably the most cost effective way to do it.

[Jim O'Dell]

I installed a PTAC/heat pump through the side wall. Ptacs are the combo heater/AC units used in motel rooms. Just put it in last fall so this summer will be the first test of the AC function. The heater was great this winter - brought the 450 sqft. shop up to 65 in about 20 minutes from high 30s. Shop is a converted garage with R13 walls and R30 lid, fully sheetrocked. PTAC purchased on Ebay for $500 IIRC + shipping.


Ben, what is the BTU rating on your unit? Your shop is about the same size as mine, and it seems the upper limit on the PTACs are about 15,000 BTUs. Did your unit come with the sleeve and the outside cap at that price? And what brand is it? Like I said, I have a hole roughed in for a PTAC, so I'm curious about yours. Thanks! Jim.

[Ben Franz]

Jim-

I bought a 1 ton (12K BTU) Harbor Point unit - imported. The seller's store doesn't list any PTAC units now (may be trouble for me later) but there are a lot of PTACs on Ebay now, many with free shipping. Mine came with a wall sleeve and the outside grille. As far as heat goes, it's fine - 12K was more than enough for the shop size based on all the sizing charts I found. Your cooling load will be higher than mine, esp. if you don't insulate. There are 15K units (or 14K) but more $$$.

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks Ben. The 15k units I've priced on line with sleeve and grill are about 900.00. But then again they are more of a name brand like Carrier. Maybe that's what I save for next year. ;) Although I might be able to get the TLOML to spring for one if we get a sick dog in that needs to be quarantined. (what I now call the assembly/finishing room that I added to the shop during the rehab was originally the quarantine/finishing room...guess it doesn't matter what it's called. :D ) Jim.

[Ben Galluzzo]

Since we're on the same topic... I've been looking at some of the mini-split units found on the link below since I don't have many options for an opening large enough for a PTAC unit.

http://www.acsuperstore.com/store/LGMINI06.html

I understand that there are some units that sell with pre-charged quick connect refrigerant line sets; making it easier for the the homeowner to install. Has anyone had experience with these?

[steve swantee]

Cooling? I wish! I expect I will still be heating mine off and on for another month.

Steve

[Matt Meiser]

Cooled as-needed with a window AC unit. Its really well insulated so I can keep it fairly comfortable without. If I found a really good deal on an AC unit and A-Coil I'd build an air handler and have them installed permanently.

[John Shaffner]

Mine involves 2 Tahitian girls in grass skirts waving palm fronds while i sit in my comfy chair sipping an adult beverage!

Works for me!;)
John

[Paul Atkins]

The coolest thing I do for my shop is play jazz all day. Actually, it's insulated and has dual pane windows. I just open it up at night and close it up during the day -stays cool till about 4 pm. This is all mute when I open the big door and let the heat in.

[Charles Lent]

Jason,

If you use a big fan in your woodshop you had better also wear goggles or you will be blinded by the blowing sawdust. Stirring up the air around me while I'm woodworking isn't something that I would want to do. A slight breeze may be OK, but a big fan will cause problems.

Charley

[Angie Orfanedes]

I cool myself in my garage shop in these ways:

1. Open the doors and windows.
2. Turn on the attic exhaust fan that is ducted through my garage ceiling.
3. Turn on the ceiling fan above my workbench (this really helps).
4. Drink a cool drink.

[Chip Lindley]

I guess my shop will NEVER be *cool* caus I love my Hot Oldies Rock. But seriously again, I cut 2 windows into the solid west side of my attached garage. Now I have a natural Breeze thru the shop! When August humidity is really tough, I use a *free* 1/2 hp squirrel cage blower from an old A/C system to create a B R E E Z E!

[David G Baker]

One of my shops has a door way that faces North and a small red pine forest. All I have to do is open that door and the one on the South end. Most of the time there is a steady breeze passing from North to South, if not I have a large fan mounted in the North doorway that has a forward and reverse switch so I can move a large amount of air in either direction. If this does not cool the shop I shouldn't be working in it in the first place because it is to hot to be working outside in the first place.

[Richard M. Wolfe]

I don't try to cool the shop....I cool me. That's accomplished by having air circulating and moving across me. In my backyard shop I use a cheapie box fan - and a big mug of tea.

[Lee Mitchell]

Just remembered running across this a few years ago. Did a google search on - homemade air conditioning

Here's the one I remember seeing. There are quite a few other links on this subject, too.

http://www.gmilburn.ca/2005/06/14/homebrew-air-conditioning/

Hope someone finds this info to be helpful.

Lee in NC

[Lance Miller]

A simple fan is all I need. My basement shop stays pretty cool as it is.

[Bob Slater]

Since we're on the same topic... I've been looking at some of the mini-split units found on the link below since I don't have many options for an opening large enough for a PTAC unit.

http://www.acsuperstore.com/store/LGMINI06.html

I understand that there are some units that sell with pre-charged quick connect refrigerant line sets; making it easier for the the homeowner to install. Has anyone had experience with these?

I think most of the main brands have the refrigerant in place and do not need to be charged during the installation. ( I have a Fujitsu Mini split)You do need an AC flaring tool however. I watched the guy install mine and ended up lending him all kinds of tools to do the job properly (not that I knew how) he didn't even have a level to make sure the interior units looked level. He was a hack, but friendly. His 17 year old daughter was his apprentice. I ended up redoing most of his hack electrical a few months later. I do love my mini split heat pump though. Dead quiet and AC makes my shop my favourite place to be.

[David G Baker]

Lee M,
Thanks for posting the thread. I had seen the site before but had forgotten about it. I have a couple of old dehumidifiers that have non working fans in them but have perfectly good radiators. My well water is so cold year round that I can't keep my hand in the water stream for any length of time without getting cold pain, I think I will do a little experimenting just for fun and may get something to work.

[Tony Bilello]

I wait for November.

[Jim Becker]

I have a window air conditioner to hep take down the humidity and temps to something reasonable.

[Julian Nicks]

I'm in the midwest and the late summers get pretty hot and humid. I've got 12" insulation in the rafters, and 3" in the walls of my garage, I mean shop... With a small oscillating fan blowing near me in the hot months, it's not bad at all in there.

[David Hostetler]

Since I originally replied to this post, I have insulated the ceiling, and rollup doors of my shop. We have had regular days in a row over 95 deg F (97-98 degrees). My shop hasn't tipped over 82 deg F yet. I simply open the common door, blow in cooled air from the house, and when cool enough to work I close the door, turn on the DC and get to making dust...

Only problem with this approach is we have cats, and they like exploring my shop, right under my feet... Wish the dog was still with us, he kept the cats out of his shop just fine...

I must admit, this is FAR from ideal, but considering the amount of shop time I can squeeze in, it works for me, at least for now...

I am going to fully insulate the walls sometime this upcoming winter, at the same time that I add my sub panel and circuits. The drywall is pretty damaged, so I figured I would do wiring / insulation / drywall at the same time...

I have not decided on a permanent system yet, but I am VERY strongly leaning toward a 12-16K BTU window unit, in a duct box that will allow the air to come / go from the soffits.

[Rob Damon]

Well insulated walls/roof with a 24000BTU window A/C unit in a 1200sf shop. Keeps it at 68 deg. through out the summer.

Rob

[David Nelson1]

I'll be using a thru the wall heat pump. 12,000 BTU for cool air and I think 9000 for heat. I need insulation and all the drywall installed before I can kick the football.

[David Helm]

What's an air conditioner?

[Don Jarvie]

I put a ceiling fan in along with insulation and while it hasn't been hot, the fan keeps the shop in the 70's.

[Joe Chritz]

This is middle Michigan. It is hot here about 27 days a year.

Generally I leave a fan running all the time to move the air around and help keep the RH consistent. I like working with the doors open so I do that when it is really hot, however it is sealed well enough it stays pretty cool at least half the day.

Joe

[Bruce Page]

I'm running my swamp cooler. :eek:

We may set a record tomorrow & Sunday; it's supposed to hit 101°. Were running 4-5 weeks early for those temps. :(

[Steve Kohn]

I am planning on going out this weekend and getting a 15,000 BTU window air unit. I need to dry out the shop so I can get good finishing results.

[Devon Shannon]

I build an addict fan about $50 from HD into the wall behind my mitersaw. This moves enough air to cool it down a bit in the summer. So if you don't want to insulate, I think you need a big fan, and cold drinks.

[Alan Lightstone]

18,000 BTU Split A/C Unit in mine. Usually too cold, despite the Florida heat. Really helps with the humidity, though.

[Dave MacArthur]

3 car-garage in Phoenix. It's 100 degrees here already. Haven't really noticed any discomfort in the garage... it's a DRY heat ;)

I create a cross breeze by opening the side door and far garage door part way. Work in the morning before the sun hits the west-facing garage doors. I insulated the garage doors.

But mostly, work Oct-Jun in the perfect temperature, and try to get out of the state Jul/Aug/Sep. ;)

I'm laughing from some of these replies from Michigan woodworkers, because I go to MI to get out of the Phoenix heat, and while there I keep thinking, "wow... this place is chill... this is all the hotter it gets 5 Aug? How do they stand it?"

[Dave Hartunian]

I put a big tub loaded with ice and beer on my work bench in front of a huge fan. It seems to work for me. But that is after shop time and before nagging time.

[Jon Lanier]

I'd say a fan would be your option for now. I had seen at Harbor Freight a really big fan for about $130.

[Steve Kohn]

My shop is just under 900 square feet, and well insulated. I got tired of having my sweat drop onto my work and staining the cherry. So I went to Home Depot this morning and picked up a 15,000 btu window unit. It took me about 90 minutes to install and spent the rest of the day making sawdust.

BTW the one quote I got for a mini-split A/C only (I have a Hot Dawg hanging from the ceiling already) was $3,600. This was a good quote since it motivated SWMBO to send me for the window unit.

[David Hostetler]

I wish like crazy I had a window in this garage, that would make adding a window unit a piece of cake. Just go to the garden center and get a Hibiscus tall enough to hide it from the HOA, and go to town!

[Bud Millis]

With something called doors and windows. Its a large garage with an upstairs. If it gets too hot & humid, I will use the window a/c.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Cool my shop. I'm pleased to report that after some serious modifications-/ my shop which last year was usually 20degrees warmer than the outside temperature is this year 25 degrees cooler. Today we had our first 100 deg day and the shop was an oasis at 73 degrees! Last year it was a beat up board and batten barn with a tin roof -- this year it has stucco over 2 inch foam insulation with an ice house roof---- what a difference. I don't think I'm going to have to cool it at all!

[Kevin Gregoire]

i am in desperate need of some a/c for my shop but i dont know which way to go?
can a window unit be made to work if i cut a hole in my wall?
i thought i had to buy a through wall unit as i needed a 'sleeve'?
and what is the best way to cut a hole in my wall? i do have one of those multi-function oscillating tools that i think would cut a nice clean hole.

thanks

[David Hostetler]

i am in desperate need of some a/c for my shop but i dont know which way to go?
can a window unit be made to work if i cut a hole in my wall?
i thought i had to buy a through wall unit as i needed a 'sleeve'?
and what is the best way to cut a hole in my wall? i do have one of those multi-function oscillating tools that i think would cut a nice clean hole.

thanks

There is a guy here, and I wish I could find his thread, that built a duct / mount box for a Home Center special window unit AC, the then ducted it up through the ceiling of his garage workshop, and out through the soffit. I am personally leaning rather heavily toward a 12-14K BTU portable unit. I don't mind cutting a dryer vent hole in the wall section between my garage doors. HOA won't fuss about that... It's hidden my SWMBO's flower box.

[David Hostetler]

Cool my shop. I'm pleased to report that after some serious modifications-/ my shop which last year was usually 20degrees warmer than the outside temperature is this year 25 degrees cooler. Today we had our first 100 deg day and the shop was an oasis at 73 degrees! Last year it was a beat up board and batten barn with a tin roof -- this year it has stucco over 2 inch foam insulation with an ice house roof---- what a difference. I don't think I'm going to have to cool it at all!

Funny thing about this, I would probably be just fine in my shop if it weren't for the oppressive humidity... My temps with all the insulation rarely go above 82 deg F (outside temps around 98 - 99), but the humidity hovers around 90%... I wish I were somewhere like San Antonio, New Mexico, or Arizona... A nicely insulated space and a fan is all you need there...