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Chris Hall
04-25-2009, 2:20 PM
May I ask for some assistance for setup and alignment of my new power feeder; steff 2048 / 4 wheel, 8 speed?

Goal: I need to make a set of 10 Lite french doors for inside the house, and two craftsman entry doors in a three panel / six lite styling. Both doors will be 1 3/8" thickness using VG Doug Fir. Oh yes, and nine double hung craftsman windows...

Problem: I am experiencing snipe, divot, or bump at the end of the cut when running narrow pieces through my shaper. Wider pieces ,sometimes infrequently, have some of the same snipe at the end of the cut The used shaper, powermatic model 26, is new to me also. I am in the newbie learning stage for using both. I have searched the forums and read numerous posts/threads but did not find information to address the following.

Current Setup: powerfeeder is per manu recommendations; 1/8~5/32 lower than workpiece, angle output side of feeder toward fence 5/32~1/4, have the feeder wheels level to shaper tabletop, feed rate is at lowest setting of 6ft/min. Middle of feeder is aligned with bit; ie. two feed wheels in front, two feed wheels behind.

Using new Freeborn bit set to make glass panel doors. Running test pieces at 3/4" thickness and 1 3/8" thickness.

Fence is factory split fence with each half aligned. Fence facia boards have been trued square, flat, straight.

Specific Problem: Works great, but i notice a 2.25" long snipe when running small pieces, ie. window mullions .75 x 1.75 x 12. The snipe is at the end of the cut and starts when the end of the piece is clear of the inboard split fence. It is as if the piece is pulled into the cutter by 1/32" for the end of the cut? I sometimes see the same thing on larger pieces...

I spent 4 hours yesterday doing test cuts with changing angulation of the X, Y, Z axis alignment for the power feeder with some improvement; but not elimination of the snipe at the end of the cut on narrow pieces.

Next Steps: I am on the way downstairs to try tilting the feeder into the fence versus away from the fence to see if that makes a difference.

Suggestions? Best practices? Been there, solved that?

David DeCristoforo
04-25-2009, 2:27 PM
1st of all, you need more pressure on your feeder wheels. I usually start with the bottom of the wheels 1/4" lower than the thickness of the stock and if my run is not going well, I will drop the feeder head a bit more. This alone could cause your "sniping" problem. Also, double check your fence. If the two sides are not in "perfect" alignment... snipe. I always use a "sacrificial" fence face that spans the cutter opening with the cutter pushed through the fence... in effect a one piece "zero clearance" fence. This will effectively eliminate any "sniping".

J.R. Rutter
04-25-2009, 3:16 PM
If you can't fit a zero clearance fence on top of factory split fence, then set up an outboard fence. Using an outboard fence, or trap fence, will let you dimension as well as have a constant contact with the part as it is fed. Basically, clamp a strip of something to the table spaced away from the cutter as needed. Then angle the feeder toward it as opposed to the factory fence. You can rig up some springs or featherboards to help keep the parts pressed against this fence.