Ipe Hall Table

[Bob Hallowell]

I got the Idea for this table from two different posts "Floating Hall Table" and "Cocobolo Writing table" I hope they don't mind I borrowed Some design elements from both.

The top was free wood I was given and was told It was Ipe, he was using it for a small outside ramp he was making for a hardwood dealer. He tossed 2 peices to the side because they had so much figure in them. I am not sure it is Ipe but I can say it was the hardest most dense wood I have every used and I have used alot of exotics in the turnings I do.

The legs are Black Walnut that I ebonized with the vineger steel wool trick.

I used no metal on the table the top is held with a sliding dove tail and pinned with a blackwood peg in the center, the legs a M&T.

The finish is Deft lacquer that still needs rubbed and buffed out.

I am curoius on what you guys think this should sell for if I decide not to keep it and take it to a show I am selling my turnings at this summer? I know how to price round stuff but flat I am not to sure. Plus I don't know if we even want to sell it.

Thanks for looking and fell free to critque it.
Bob
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/bobha8/table1.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r111/bobha8/table2.jpg

[Ed Sallee]

Very nice piece! The grain really popped for you.....

The turning looks great sitting on top of it..... very attractive display.

If I were to keep it and use it to display your turnings at a show.... there's nothing wrong with throwing a high price tag on it and see what happens..... It's definitely worth keeping, though.... I'm glad the choice is not mine.

Excellent looking piece and display.

[John Keeton]

Bob, you gotta love guys that don't want that ol' nasty figured wood!! That is a striking top, and works very well with the ebonized walnut. Can't help on pricing as I have never sold any pieces. But, I would be hesitant to sell something that was a "first", and it may make a very nice "display" piece for some of your round work at the shows. Just a thought.

Ed, you beat me to the "display" idea!!

[Jack Camillo]

Wow, is all I can say. I like that piece a lot - everything about it. I'm not a pricer by any means, but I think if I came across it at a show, I wouldn't think somewhere in the range of 500-650 was unrealistic.

[Ed Sallee]

I was thinkin' more like $1500.... it'd go for that, might take a while, but you'd have your display for longer.... but then again, it could go straight away..

But, the pricing all depends on cost of material and time put in.... and there is something to be said about artistic value.

[Bob Hallowell]

I was thinkin' more like $1500.... it'd go for that, might take a while, but you'd have your display for longer.... but then again, it could go straight away..

But, the pricing all depends on cost of material and time put in.... and there is something to be said about artistic value.

Thanks guys,

Wow I was thinking more in the $600 range which I thought was high. as for materials I have $20 in deft lacquer and a few bucks for vineger All the wood was free.

[Ryan Sparreboom]

Very very nice table. Price it as if you had paid for the wood. I'd lean more towards the high end of whats been suggested so far and say you should get $1200 easily from the right buyer. The wood is beautiful and the craftsmanship is superb. Don't let it go for too cheap.

Ryan

[John Keeton]

Ryan is right on the wood. Materials should always be priced at market. Getting a good deal on materials is part of the labor - all the looking and scrounging to get a good deal (or in this case the good fortune of being in the right place at the right time) is part of the job of a craftsman. The customer should not benefit from that. Were it not the case, then you should tell your customer - YOU find the materials, and buy 25% extra for waste, and I will just charge for the labor and design art. You won't get any takers on that one!;)

[Dewey Torres]

Bob,
Nice job on the table... I was thinking $700 before I read everyone's posts. I like how you have displayed your turning. I still think it looks like a blow fish.

[David Gendron]

When you say all the wood was free, you have to think that it's not always that way. so price your piece as so! I think the $1500 is not to much that piece realy sticks out and I think that some newbe at saling there products, tend to undersale what they make! that said, some over sale there products only because they have a name attached to it!
thats only my 2c worth!!

[Bruce Page]

Bob, I agree with the original owner of the wood – it has way too much figure. You should send it to me. To save you trouble, you can send me the legs too.
I know, I know, I’m just a great guy.:D

[Tony Bilello]

I think $650 to $700 is a reasonable price based on similar furniture for sale.
The value of a piece is generally determined by the overall 'look'. It's the 'look' that makes it desirable. The average consumer does not care how much the wood cost or how long it took to make. Time and materials is concern of the designer/builder.

[Don C Peterson]

Beautiful! As for the price? My thought is that $600 is a steal. The right customer would pay $1,500. Of course it depends on how quickly you want to sell versus how much you'd like to make...

Regardless, that's a very nice table, good job.

[John Thompson]

Very nice job.. I cannot help on the pricing as I haven't personally purchased a piece since the mid 70's and just don't know the market. But.. I would go high and be willing to come down. If you price low.. there is no room to negotiate down to more than you originally thought it would sell for as you might get more.

Something is worth what someone is willing to pay. You just hope that the right someone's come along when you're the seller.

Sarge..

[Jim Becker]

Outstanding piece.

[David Gendron]

I agree with John T., and the other thing is it's one of a kind so price as to go with it.
If you want an idea, google tables and you will see that any custom furnitures go for much more than you think! I made a chest fr a client(sister inlaw...) Mahogany, hand cut dove tails all hand made(no power tools) and sold it to her for $700cdn. after that I went on the web and found some basics pine chest for twice that price! So think and look befor you put a price on it!

[Greg McClurg]

Beautiful work. I'd price it high then if someone wants to pay you that much great otherwise you get to keep it. If you use it as a display table someone will buy it. Gotta love that free lumber.

Greg

[Steve Schlumpf]

Outstanding piece Bob! Beautiful wood - great design! This piece goes beyond normal furniture and classifies as a piece of art. Don't be bashful with your asking price! As mentioned - if you start high, you have room to negotiate. I would think $1000 as a rock bottom price but would have it stickered for at least $1200, if not $1500. It may not sell right away, but it could!

[John Michaels]

I love that table! Nice job. How does the vinegar steel wool trick work?

As far as pricing your table is worth well over a $1000 IMHO.

Here's a link to a gallery with some tables to help with pricing.

http://www.nwfinewoodworking.com/type/hall_tables.htm

[Benjamin Dahl]

Bob, that is a beauty. Cool to see you have talent both at turning and flatwork. I think you should price it high as well.
Ben

[Mark Versprille]

I haven't seen the pieces you drew inspiration from, but those furniture makers should feel flattered by what they have led you to make. Your table is a clean, un-muddied design. It's very reminiscent of the Pacific Coast Arts & Crafts style but there is something different about it (that I can't put my finger on) that gives it a kind of european feel. Were I to come up with that design I'd be very proud of myself. And the craftsmanship is up to the design. Damn good work.

[Irwin Fletcher]

Absolutely beautiful! The fact the wood was free makes it even sweeter.

[Bob Hallowell]

I love that table! Nice job. How does the vinegar steel wool trick work?



Thanks for all the kind words guys.

John,
you just put some steel wool or steel uncoated nails in some vineger for a couple weeks. Then rag or brush it on walnut or oak and the tanin in the wood mixes with the liquid rust you just made and turns the wood black. Then you need to wipe it down with Mineral Spirits to take the rust off and lightly sand the grain.

Bob

[Jim Kountz]

Thanks guys,

Wow I was thinking more in the $600 range which I thought was high. as for materials I have $20 in deft lacquer and a few bucks for vineger All the wood was free.

Bob, first of all, stunning table!! Really nice man I love it.
About the pricing. While the wood for this one was free dont price it according to that. Sure as you do someone else will want one and you may have to purchase the materials so therefor you wouldnt be able to price it the same and that could start a whole nuther thing!!
Again, really nice piece, well done!!

[John Keeton]

Thanks for all the kind words guys.

John,
you just put some steel wool or steel uncoated nails in some vineger for a couple weeks. Then rag or brush it on walnut or oak and the tanin in the wood mixes with the liquid rust you just made and turns the wood black. Then you need to wipe it down with Mineral Spirits to take the rust off and lightly sand the grain.

BobPWW has an article on ebonizing this month. Haven't tried it, but certainly does add to the piece.

[David Keller NC]

Bob - One way to price your work (and I've the feeling you already know this from your turnings) is figure your labor hours, multiply by your shop rate, and add twice the (market) material costs. Generally speaking, anything less than $50 an hour for a shop rate is a money-losing proposition, because that includes all of the things that a customer has to pay for to keep you in business but aren't specifically attached to the piece (sandpaper, wear on router bits, depreciation on machines, sharpening, marketing, photography, etc...).

The multiplyer for the market rate of the materials (ie., price per b.f.) takes care of waste, the occasional unusable board, and the labor/gas to go look for the wood and to pick it. I've had to explain more than once to someone that wood doesn't come in the exact size for their project, and I can't sell (or even use, in some cases) leftover scraps.

By the way - that really doesn't look like any Ipe I've ever seen. Could be wrong about that, of course, and it's hard to judge from a 'net photo. One clue is that Ipe is one of the hardest woods you'll ever likely encounter. It makes hard maple look like soft white pine. It's generally purplish-black in it's freshly planed state, and quickly weathers to a greenish-gray. It is also extraordinarily brittle - a pass across end-grain can split out more than a quarter inch at the corner.

[allen levine]

Although Im quite the beginner, Ive built a few outdoor chairs and tables out of ipe, and the few hundred linear feet I purchased had tremendous variations in grain and color.
The gloss finish you achieved on that top is incredible.
Its such an oily wood, I didnt think it could take a poly or laquer finish that well. Congratulations on a fantastic piece. Price it accordingly, its quite a stunning piece of furniture.

[Bob Hallowell]

Although Im quite the beginner, Ive built a few outdoor chairs and tables out of ipe, and the few hundred linear feet I purchased had tremendous variations in grain and color.
The gloss finish you achieved on that top is incredible.
Its such an oily wood, I didnt think it could take a poly or laquer finish that well. Congratulations on a fantastic piece. Price it accordingly, its quite a stunning piece of furniture.

Allen,
I have been wood working for a while but still consider myself a beginner. But with turning I have learned to deal with oily wood. I always seal oily wood with shelac first and never have problems after that.

Bob

[Jason Tuinstra]

Bob, great looking piece! I really, really like the way the ebonized walnut turned out. That's a great effect. It gives the walnut a "wenge" look to it. Real nice. Also, I like your use of the sliding dovetail - joinery and art all in one. Great job!

Concerning the price, that's always touchy. I'm certainly not an expert, have struggled with it often, and am certainly glad that you've gotten some good advice as to formula etc. The only thing that gives me pause in suggesting the higher end that people have suggested is the laminated legs - if I saw that correctly. Also, I don't know how wide the table top is, but I think a single board top or a book-matched top would push it more in this direction as well. Please don't take this wrong. I hesitate to mention this at all lest I sound too persnickety or leave you with the wrong impression. It's an awesome table and should fetch a handsome price! These are just things that I would look at and expect if I was going to buy a table like this in the 4 digit range.

Keep up the great work!

[Bob Hallowell]

Bob, great looking piece! I really, really like the way the ebonized walnut turned out. That's a great effect. It gives the walnut a "wenge" look to it. Real nice. Also, I like your use of the sliding dovetail - joinery and art all in one. Great job!

Concerning the price, that's always touchy. I'm certainly not an expert, have struggled with it often, and am certainly glad that you've gotten some good advice as to formula etc. The only thing that gives me pause in suggesting the higher end that people have suggested is the laminated legs - if I saw that correctly. Also, I don't know how wide the table top is, but I think a single board top or a book-matched top would push it more in this direction as well. Please don't take this wrong. I hesitate to mention this at all lest I sound too persnickety or leave you with the wrong impression. It's an awesome table and should fetch a handsome price! These are just things that I would look at and expect if I was going to buy a table like this in the 4 digit range.

Keep up the great work!

Jason,
Thanks I do agree with you on price. The things you mention make alot of sense, Before I built it I never had any intent on selling it thus the laminated legs. I just had some reall pretty wood. If I make more of these to sell those will be things I look at more closely.

Bob

[David Keller NC]

Bob - One other thought. Since you live in PA, you've a fairly large population and some fairly large population centers (that's a good thing in this instance). Unlike someone in North Dakota, you've many outlets for your work, and you're generally looking to sell to higher-income individuals.

That typically means craft shows and the like are out - they're populated by bargain hunters. There are a couple of other outlets, though, that do attract higher end customers - semi-galleries and interior designers.

By "semi-galleries", I'm thinking not of a pure art gallery (though that's not a bad thought - your table would look very well underneath a large oil painting in a gallery). There are a number of stores now that are essentially boutiques for hand-made furniture, art, "doo-dads" and other things - we've one locally called "Accipiter", and they are always looking for unique designs to add to their appeal. Because they sell individually-made items, they understand that a relatively high price must be asked, and even though they will mark the table up 50-100%, your portion will likely vastly exceed what you can get at a woodworking fair or craft show.

[GERALD HARGROVE]

Great looking table and well worth more than 500-600. Look around the net and see some of the junk that people are paying a small fortune for and you will quickly get an idea of what you can sell you table for.

[Chris Padilla]

Pretty piece, Bob. Is this a "3-sided" table due to the sliding dovetail you used? Does the top have the edging done on all four sides? So, in other words, it is likely to always be against a wall, correct?

[Bob Hallowell]

Pretty piece, Bob. Is this a "3-sided" table due to the sliding dovetail you used? Does the top have the edging done on all four sides? So, in other words, it is likely to always be against a wall, correct?

Chris,
the table is 4 sided, the dovetails go all the way through. I then carved them to match the routed profiles.

Bob

[Chris Padilla]

Nice...how about a shot of that side, Bob! :D