finishing Question?

[Tim Vice]

I am new to turning and would like to know what you guys apply to your work. I like natural wood look and color. I use CA on my pens(not very good yet) and like the depth that it has, any suggestions for larger works?

Thanks

[Rob Cunningham]

On the few things I've turned, I've just applied a couple coats of dewaxed shellac then wax.

[Al Wasser]

All sorts of finishes will work. You need to determine how the final product will be used. For example, something that most is mostly for looks you can just use shellac or sanding sealer. Something like a salad bowl that will get a lot of use a oil finish may be better. I still don't have a favorite and have a lot of cans around. They all work.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Tim - you will find that your personal taste in finishes change over time. I started with Watco 'Natural' Danish Oil, then moved on to Minwax Antique Oil and presently have been using Minwax Wipe-On Gloss poly. I do agree with Al in that it really depends on what the turning is going to be used for. I tend to lean towards the decorative items - so glossy/flashy works for me. I wouldn't want to have poly in my salad bowl however!

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have to agree with the others. It will depend on what you want to turn. I use Antique Oil, General Finishes or walnut oil on my utility turnings. If I want a decorative piece I do like Steve and use wipe on poly, rattle can spray lacquer, or rattle can spray poly. I don't use much sealers, shellac, friction polish because they just don't last at least for me. People coming into a home with Hollow Form vases picking them up looking at them just wears off the that type of finish IMHO. Spray or brushing lacquer will probably give you the most natural finish.

[Mike Minto]

regarding the use of polyurethanes in something like a bowl which will hold food - i thought any resin finish that is carried by a volatile vehicle (say that 3 times fast) and that cures hard was food safe - not just products labelled for food utensil use, as in the so called salad bowl finishes i see available; they are toxic, too, in liquid form. appreciating any info in advance, mike

[Steve Schlumpf]

Mike - I have always understood the same thing - that once a finish cures it is food safe. The comment I made about not wanting poly in my salad bowl is because poly is a surface finish. The use of forks/knives will eventually cut, crack or chip the finish which could then become part of your meal.

[Scott Conners]

Mike,
I wouldn't use poly or other film finishes on a salad bowl because of the wear factor. Bowls that see heavy use will get scraped and worn by utensils, and I don't want the finish flaking off. Oils penetrate and are easily renewed when they get scratched.

[Mike Minto]

sounds good to me; then are the 'salad bowl finishes' penetrating, and not film forming? mike :confused:

[Gary DeWitt]

I don't like poly for food items at all, not because it might be harmfull. Ever swallow polypropolene (sp?)? Of course, if you eat from any soft plastic and use metal utensils. It's not digestible, so not toxic.
It's just that refinishing something with a film finish is a difficult, tedious time consuming job.
I use Mike Mahoney's walnut oil on salad/fruit type bowls and wood utensils, just add a coat now and then an buff it to a soft glow. My daughter, who IS concerned about "toxic" finishes, uses the same oil on her otherwise unfinished dining table every few months, and swears by it.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use Butcher Block oil on my bowls. They don't get used. They sit on peoples shelves. So I guess any finish would be okay in that case. Butcher block oil is NOT the greatest looking finish. I prefer tung oils for the boxes and canisters. I got the BB oil for my BB cutting board I made. I notice that I have to re-finish often, but the cutting board sees use every day.

Upon recomendations from this forum, I just got some wipe on poly. Now I just have to finish turn something to use it on.