Craftsman 10 inch Radial Arm Saw

[Howard Kowall]

Hello to all
I just picked up the above saw,I got it from a friend who didnt use it anymore.What I fail to understand is the top and fence system,I understand how to use it ,but i need to make a new top and fence,why do they use 2 piece of wood behind the fence up against the adjusters,can this not be made from 1 piece,the only thing I can think of, if the two pieces were cut at an angle on the edge,this might stop it from popping out.All so these saw are a real pain to calibrate,makes my table saw calibration a breeze.
Thanx to all that read or reply
Howard

[Loren Hedahl]

This group tends to be somewhat anti-radial arm saw, however there are a few of us who use these saws regularly; some as the primary cutting tool.

There is a forum on Delphi called the ""DeWalt" radial arm saw forum" that will give you a lot of tips and information. There are also two books that I refer to on occasion; "Mr. Sawdust" by Wally Kunkle and "Fine Tuning your Radial Arm Saw" by Jon Eakes.

When I replaced the table on my Delta, I used the method in the Mr. Sawdust book. It makes for an extremely flat and rigid table. I would highly recommend you obtain both those books and puruse the DeWalt forum also. There is a world of information and wisdom available that can make using a radial arm saw a pleasant, safe and productive experience.

[Tom Veatch]

I had one of those saws years ago, and as I recall, the reason for the two piece backing is to give the user an option for the location of the fence depending on the needs of the particular operation. Both pieces behind the fence moves the fence closer to the front of the table. One of the pieces in front and one behind places the fence farther from the front edge. No reason for having it in two pieces if you never have need to change the position of the fence.

I believe that if the edges of these pieces were anything but a square cut, there would be a tendency for one to slide over the other when you tighten the table clamps and cause a greater, not lesser, tendency of the pieces to pop out of position.

[Ben Cadotte]

The reason for the 2 piece set up behind the fence is for ripping capacity. Basically the 2 board set up allows different capacities for different operations (rip and cross cuts). You need the fence in front of the blade for cross cuts. But to get the 24" rip you need to move the fence farther back. The scales on the arm are for blade inboard, blade outboard, and fence position combinations.

As long as the front table is secure. And you tighten the thumb screws that clamp the fence / rear table pieces. No matter which combination you use. The saw still stays square.

[Craig T. Smith]

Howard, First welcome to the creek. As stated the 2 pieces of wood behind the fence are for fine tuning a rip cut. Some of these saws had a problem with the blade gaurd and were the subject of a recall. I think you can look up' radial arm saw recall' on the net type in your serial and model # and see if yours was affected. Mine was and I got a new blade gaurd with a splitter and a new table. It came with a manual for the new parts and I contacted sears and got a new manual sent PDF . The blde gaurd etc. was free. As you say setting up this saw is time consuming and a pain, but once its done itcuts like a dream. Craig

[Lee Schierer]

As others have said, the two strips of board behind the fence are for maximizing the width of rip cuts. Make sure if you rip with this saw to set the tips of the teeth at least one eighth inch below the table surface. Yes it will cut into the top of the table board. Be sure teo setthe guard so the infeed side is wwithin 1/8" of the top of the board bing ripped and the splitter and anti kick back pawls are properly adjusted on the outfeed side. You can safely rip on a radial arm saw, but you need to do it properly to avoid launching a board.

You also need to clean the carriage rollers and tracks they ride on periodically to keep the saw working smoothly.

[Howard Kowall]

Hello again
Thanks very much to all who replied.
I dont plan on using it for ripping,and if I ever try it I think the one strip of wood behind will be ok.I will call about the saw recall,I enterd in my saw # and it did showed the kit # I hope they will still do this and hope they have stock on the new part.Once gain Thanks to all who replied and I will be posting here again about some woodworking projects I am working on.
Howard

[Ray Parks]

I am trying to change the blade on a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw and cannot remove the blade guard - there is a black plastic part of the blade guard that is between the blade and the motor and I see no way to remove the guard without breaking that part. How is this guard removed?

[Joe Scharle]

Should be a threaded rod (L-shaped on end) to loosen the guard.

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Follow up on Craig's advise. Google "craftsman radial arm saw recall".

[Fred Hargis]

I am trying to change the blade on a Craftsman 10" radial arm saw and cannot remove the blade guard - there is a black plastic part of the blade guard that is between the blade and the motor and I see no way to remove the guard without breaking that part. How is this guard removed?
I can't envision what you're describing, but you might try googling the model number of the saw, you may find an electronic version of the owner's manual. The later models just had a threaded rod that stuck out from the guard near the operator side on the lower edge. Loosen it and the guard lifts right off. If by chance you do break it, they come up for sale on e-bay all the time. The older Craftsman guards won't work on the newer models, they had a blade clamping arrangement similar to a Dewalt. If the older ones would work, I have one you could have gratis.

[Chris Christopher]

Recommend you check www.radialarmsawrecall.com to see if your saw is one of the effected ones. Mine was and got a newly designed blade guard and a new table also. Cost was zero and well worth the effort.

[Howard Acheson]

The first thing I recomend you do it to get a copy of the instruction manual for that saw. You will need it to properly set up and align the saw. The alignment of a RAS is dependent on doing thing step by step. Each adjustment is dependent on the proper adjustment of the preceding step.

Contact Sears service for the manual for your saw. If you can't get it, post the model number her and perhaps one of us can send it to you.

[Bill White]

Post the model number. Some are not covered in the recall. I have my manual if you would like a copy (if the #s are the same).
Bill ;)

[Thomas L. Miller]

Hello again
Thanks very much to all who replied.
I dont plan on using it for ripping,and if I ever try it I think the one strip of wood behind will be ok.I will call about the saw recall,I enterd in my saw # and it did showed the kit # I hope they will still do this and hope they have stock on the new part.Once gain Thanks to all who replied and I will be posting here again about some woodworking projects I am working on.
Howard
Howard,
They still do it. I just got my kit last week and the recall has been ongoing for nine years.