Newby Sharpening

[Mike Newell]

Okay,

There must be a secret for sharpening gouges...I've tried making a Jig like this http://aroundthewoods.com/imgssharp/im000953.jpg and still no luck. I end up with a almost flat tip and awful looking edge. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

[Norm Zax]

That jig is only for the production of a fingernail grind (swept back wings). Otherwise use the same but without that square holding block (http://aroundthewoods.com/imgssharp/im001878.jpg). Put very light downward pressure and use a proper stone and grit (100 grit +-20, slightly friable stone/white).
Final word - PRACTICE. Do that on a cheap gouge and after time (months for some), you'll be there.

[Mike Newell]

Yep, I purchased the Harbor Freight set (cheap) after reading other advise on this forum...glad I did. I also purhased the Woodcraft slow speed grinder with the white wheels. Turning seems like learning Woodworking all over again.

Thanks,
Mike

[Jeff Taylor]

Your roughing gouges would work fine straight from the wheel
A belt sander work give a flat grind to your skews (if you like a flat vs concave grind)
D.Feltmate shows several nice DIY jigs for roughing gouges and fingernail grinds ..
The straight rod with the right-angle cup works great for simple grinds.

[Stephen Massman]

Here is the setup i made my sharpening system from.

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pdf/ShopBuiltJig.pdf

[Burt Alcantara]

Mike,
There is a trick. It's not to over grind and consistency. Hold the gouge with the tip centered on the wheel. The amount of pressure you apply to the gouge against the wheel is just the weight of the tool. With the gouge on the wheel slowly drop it to the right side so the tip slides to the sides (wings). Place the tool back to center then drop to the left.

On an already shaped gouge, that's all that you need to do. To reshape or profile the gouge, do this a few times on the finer wheel. Normally, you would reprofile on the course wheel but for now let's keep it simple and stay on the fine wheel.

Keep a picture of a gouge profile near you so you can aim for that shape. After each grinding step hold the gouge up to a light source and look for reflection on the edge. If you see reflection, you're not sharp. Also, run your finger nail up the inside of the gouge edge and look for a burr. The burr will let you know you have a folded edge, which is a good thing.

Sharping is like this: 4208df80v 38023498f903kdjk#$3 4 3 4#$#$@#*()D #$9d98d98d !!!! ed0c9ere 34f89df........oh, now I get it.

Burt

[Mike Peace]

There is more steel to shape on the wings than the tip so you will initially have to spend more time shaping the wings. As mentioned light touch. As Dave Ellsworth says, "Don't grind the tool but dress the bevel."

Turning takes practice to develop skill. So does sharpening. As mentioned, HF tools are great starter tools to practice sharpening with. Check out the ONeway video at their website. http://www.oneway.ca/multi-media/wolverine_videos.htm