glue on clamps

[Mike Minto]

this will probably seem a basic question, but here goes - i have glue on my clamps (gasp!). it makes it difficult, to slide the jaws open and closed - anyone have a good way to get rid of old, dried-up glue on the metal bars of clamps - other than scraping, hammering, etc? thanks, mike

[Michael Poller]

I buy cheap wax paper (I get it usually at Ocean State Job Lot) from the $1 type stores.

I lay it out under the clamps on whatever surface I am working on. I lay it out on the clamps between them and the material being clamped.

Once the glue has set for a while, I'll remove all the wax paper after cleaning up any squeeze out.

Fast, cheap and easy. Lately, I also started taping the wax paper to the clamp heads as I found just laying the wax paper loosely made it difficult to work with. It would just flail about with the slightest motion.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

It's particularly difficult to get off of clamps with the serrated bars like the Bessy K-Body. If chipping it off doesn't work, application of heat will usually help soften the dried glue enough to get it off.

In fact, I think I recall reading a thread on this topic very recently. Try searching; you may find some additional information that may prove useful.

[Bill Huber]

After you get it off, which is not a lot of fun.....


I use good old Johnson wax the same I use on the cast iron. Wax the clamp bars up really good and then just don't buff them off. The glue will come right off next time,

[Paul Fitzgerald]

After you get it off, which is not a lot of fun.....


I use good old Johnson wax the same I use on the cast iron. Wax the clamp bars up really good and then just don't buff them off. The glue will come right off next time,

Good call Bill!

[Howard Acheson]

Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive. If it's a PVA adhesive put a rag in boiling water and lay it over the bar. That will soften it and, if it's not Titebond III, it will actually dissolve it so it can be wiped off.

Once you get it off, use 3/0 steel wool to clean the bar well. Then, put a coat of furniture paste wax. That will make it easier to get off next time.

To prevent it getting on the bar at all, buy a roll of wax paper. Using your bandsaw, cut the roll into 4-6" wide small rolls. Before gluing, cut off a length, fold it down the middle and drape it over the bar (or pipe). An alternative is to buy a couple of lengths of shower curtain rod covers. They are plastic and can be cut to 4-6" lengths and put over the bar. Then just slide them to position them were ever the gluelines will rest.

Best to prevent any adhesive getting on the clamps than having to get it off.

[Lance Norris]

After you do get it all cleaned off. painters tape, applied to the bars, also works well.

[Lee Schierer]

Don't use so much glue. Glue from joints should form small beads about the size of a pin head every 1/8-1/4" of length of seam. Drips or runs indicate you used too much glue. Save time and apply only enough glue to do the job.

Lay some thin strips of scrap across (perpendicular to) your clamps to keep the clamps from actually touching the glue joints. Some woods like Oak will turn black when glue is in contact with the wood and iron.

[Greg Crawford]

If you use wax paper and no glue gets on it, you can save it to wax the sole of hand planes. Just wad it up and give a quick rub once or twice back to front so you don't shave your fingers! This done every once in a while (you'll feel it get harder to push) makes a plane slide much easier.

I've also heard of folks rubbing down their bare metal with it. It's like waxing your table saw every time you do a glue up. Easy, cheap, quick.

[Mike Minto]

thanks for all the helpful suggestions. sometimes i do accidentally use too much glue, but other times i'm laminating a couple of boards to make a thicker, single one for a specific use, and that calls for alot of glue. funny how i usually remember to lay paper under the clamps to keep glue off the surface they are laying on, but never thought of doing the same thing to protect the clamps. i also just remembered that i have one of those dangerous wire wheels i can put on my grinder; that should take care of the glue, even in the small grooves in my two K-body clamps - i'll have to suit up and wear lots of protection - those wire wheels will spit out dangerous projectiles! mike