Colored Glass

[Dee Gallo]

I just tried my first rotary project, using a cobalt blue glass from Walmart (88¢). I started with soap/newspaper but it did 2 things: first, it burned unevenly, which I found out after it fell off (must have dried out too fast). The resulting burn was fine after the paper was removed, a nice white image.

They also had other colors: red, brown, grey and golden-brown, which I have not tried.

I have to add that it was a little scary using the rotary for the first time, but it worked exactly like it was supposed to, did not slip even with the soap.

I used the settings recommended here for my 35w: 30 speed/100 power at 600 dpi. The one thing I forgot to do was change the black to 80% but it does not seem to have made a difference, the designs came out clear, with a frosty white finish and no banding.

cheers, dee

[Phyllis Meyer]

Dee,

It's beautiful! I think they have brown and green glassware there too. Try the coffee mugs, I have done those. They make wonderful "teacher gifts" for end of the school gifts.

Sincerely,
Phyllis

[Dan Hintz]

I visited my (semi-)local Ikea store a few weeks back and picked up a few small colored glasses for $1/piece. I haven't lasered them yet, but they were surprisingly even (no bumps) and the color selection was decent... red, smoke, green, yellow, etc. The white frosted look against a dark color really makes it stand out.

[Frank Corker]

Turned out beautiful Dee. The idea of the wet newspaper and washing up soap is that the washing up stuff keeps the paper wet and stops it from drying out. You aren't using persil tablets on it are you? :D

[Dee Gallo]

Turned out beautiful Dee. The idea of the wet newspaper and washing up soap is that the washing up stuff keeps the paper wet and stops it from drying out. You aren't using persil tablets on it are you? :D

I think I was afraid of it being too wet and dripping, so didn't put enough dish soap on. The newspaper must have absorbed all the liquid and started flapping around. As with everything else laser-related, it's a balancing act to get all the factors "just right".

You're speaking a foreign language, Frank - what are persil tablets???

The edges were pretty sharp afterwards, but your suggestion of a green scrubbie cleaned that up just fine. Thanks!

cheers, dee

[Steve Clarkson]

Dee,

They look GREAT!!!

From my limited experience, the newspaper was a real pain in the butt, and the image also burned unevenly for me. I ended up ONLY using the soap and it came out beautifully. Also, for a really sharp image, go up to 1200 dpi.....I found that it did make a significant difference for me. Takes longer though.

[David Fairfield]

Nice work, Dee! Looks classy.

Dave

[Dee Gallo]

Thanks for the nice comments, everyone - could not have done it without you!

The Creek Rules!

[Tim Bateson]

I also found the paper to be a pain. Any wrinkles - even small ones causes uneven engraving. Sometimes the paper would move as it rotated on the rollers causing wrinkles or the paper to rip.
I now use dish soap only. My wine bottles, I use nothing - naked bottles. :eek:

[Mike DeRegnaucourt]

Hi Dee,

The glass looks great! :)

Did you run into any other issues with the bottom of the glasses not being round? Did you just put the rotary wheels under the round parts of the glass?

BTW...I've had great luck whenever I've done glasses using dish soap and paper towels. It smooths out nicely and no wrinkles.

As Tim stated, I've also done them 'naked' without problems either. I believe one of the main reasons for the soap/paper technique is probably to help reduce/minimize the amount of small fine glass shards flying around inside your machine.

[Dee Gallo]

Thanks, Mike -

I used the clip thingy to hold the rim tight and the flat parts on the bottom half did not cause any problems that I know of (skipping, jumping, stopping). I was going at 30 speed, so it was pretty slow and maybe that helped it stay on the rollers pretty evenly.

It's all new to me, I will probably try another one to see if a different design works as well.

cheers, dee

[Mike DeRegnaucourt]

Thanks Dee. Regardless, the glass looked great! :)

[Bill Cunningham]

Dee; Soap is all you need.. forget about the paper.. If you find some of the more solid areas flaking, then pick up the speed a bit.. At 600 dpi. you could bump it up to 40 sp 100%.. I usually just dip my finger in a glass of dish soap and wipe it on the area to etch. Even when it drys out, it still seems to work.. I think the laser re-liqufies it, and it seems to damped down the force of the micro chipping.. Rinse them off in cold water, wipe them down with a towel, then let them dry, after a few minutes, the etch drys as the rest of the dampness evaporates from the etching.. And, as was previously said, it seems to reduce the amount of glass dust flying around the cabinet, or at least keeps it more localized so your exhaust can suck it out and pepper the birds in the yard :p

[Steve Clarkson]

You speed UP to stop the flaking??????? No wonder! I kept slowing DOWN!!!

[Bill Cunningham]

You speed UP to stop the flaking??????? No wonder! I kept slowing DOWN!!!

Glass will etch with very little power, and when it flakes it 'could' be hardspots on glass that has varying densities like lower cost beer mugs (you can see the waver in the glass) , but usually it's just hitting it too hard when etching heavy or really bold text and large solid areas. You get bigger chips in some areas as the glass heats up.. I etch Good glass at 18-20 speed 100 power 400 dpi, but bold heavy text has a tendency to flake so I use 70-80% grey, and boost it up to about 40 speed, and that makes all the difference in the world. Your not going to get any 'depth' on glass so why hammer it..

[John Ness]

Hi Dee and all,

When I engrave glass instead of newspaper I use application tape. Application tape (transfer tape) is what we use for making vinyl lettering on signs.

Any sign supply house that sell vinyl will carry it. Application tape is actually tacky paper that sticks to the glass very well. I then spray with tap water (I have not tried soap). It peels away nicely after engraving.

I have done engravings that take 3-5 minutes without drying out.

Best part: tape comes in 1" increments and is CHEAP.

Hope this helps,
John Ness

[Dee Gallo]

Hi Dee and all,

When I engrave glass instead of newspaper I use application tape. Application tape (transfer tape) is what we use for making vinyl lettering on signs.

Any sign supply house that sell vinyl will carry it. Application tape is actually tacky paper that sticks to the glass very well. I then spray with tap water (I have not tried soap). It peels away nicely after engraving.

I have done engravings that take 3-5 minutes without drying out.

Best part: tape comes in 1" increments and is CHEAP.

Hope this helps,
John Ness

Hi John,

When you use transfer tape, do you add time or power to compensate for the thickness or does it not make a big difference? I can see where the sticky thing would be a big advantage over wet paper.

Thanks for the suggestion, dee

[Rodne Gold]

Glass engraves only cos it has impurities in it that expand with the thermal energy of the laser , the problem is uncontrolled fracturing alongside the spot.
The paper/soap/tape "damps" the glass so it does not fracture so easily and uncontrollably,
The best way is to use this in combination with the greyscale method , IE no continuous solid areas of engraving. There are laser engraving packages (winmark etc) that allow exceptional glass engraving by making the engraving "dots"

[Andrea Weissenseel]

Looks very nice Dee, I like that fresh style

The last time I did glasses I also used only a little coat of dish soap and they came out pretty nice. Before that I used paper, we call it silkpaper - its a very thin paper and they use it to wrap flowers in. But it dried out too fast when engraving, so it wouldn't stick to the glass anymore

Andrea