Need advice on small sawmill purchase

[Andy Pratt]

I will be buying a small sawmill in the next two months and I am looking for advice from people who have owned and used one. I am particularly looking for advice from people who have used the norwood lumbermate 2000, as that is by far at the top of my list, general advice on any models is welcome though.

I will be keeping it in a stationary location permanently (no trailer or mobile sawing) sawing up roughly 10,000 bf of pine on my property when I clear it this summer, so that is its immediate primary use. Following that, I will keep it for the occasional job income it will generate and to allow me to purchase logs instead of rough lumber, and saw them up the way I want.

I don't want to get into a discussion of whether it is a good idea to buy a sawmill vs. paying someone to saw, and hydraulic options are out of my budget, so please avoid those.

I'm looking for general advice on using the sawmill, good reference books about efficient/safe sawing, how to deal with metal in logs, manual log handling options (use of winches, brands of cant hooks, loading techniques) etc. Most importantly, I'm looking for anything you find really annoying about the lumbermate mill. I've heard all the good from the company, so I would like to hear about some of the drawbacks so I know before I buy.

Thanks,
Andy

[Scott T Smith]

Andy, the first recommendation that I would make is for you to join the Forestry forum (forestryforum.com). It has a myriad of sawmill owners and operators on it, and a wealth of sawmill information in it's archives. Rather than recreate everything on this post, I'll refer you to the FF.

A friend of mine has the same sawmill that you're considering, and he has been very pleased with it. His is set up in a stationary application. I use a circular swing-blade mill myself.

Some things to remember - you need to be able to handle the logs and the boards. A skid steer, farm tractor with a loader, forklift, log arch; it would be very beneficial for you to have one of these for log and lumber handling.

Logrite makes some of the best log handling tools (cant hooks, peavey's, etc). NOBODY that owns a Logrite will subsequently willingly use anything else.

The USDA has a lot of great information for sawmill owners, and most if it can be downloaded for free.

Re transporting logs with trailers and winches, search the FF for the term "parbuckling".

Lumber stores better in the treen than in the log (before milling), so don't harvest your logs until you're ready to mill the lumber.

Re metal, stay away from "yard trees" or "fencerow" trees whenever possible, and do a good visual inspection. A good metal detector is a great investment; mine cost over a grand but it's paid for itself.

Try to keep the logs out of the mud and rocks - these debris will embed themselves into the bark and accelerate the wear on your blade.

Buy extra blades, and take the time to obtain sharpening and setting equipment - it will save you $ in the long run.

If you send me a PM I'll forward the e-mail address of my friend with the Norwood.

[Julian Nicks]

Andy, I get my lumber milled from a guy who has used a norwood trouble free for over 10 years. He swears by it, and would buy it again. I frequent this forum which has guys using bandmills all the way up to the big cirlcle mills. They are a great bunch of guys, and very helpful. http://www.sawmillandtimberforum.com/

[Ryan Fee]

Everything Scott said,

and...

Spend the time to plan out your set-up for ease and efficiency.

Indoors or outdoors? One man or two man operation?

Where will your log pile go? How will you move the logs from the pile to the mill? Is it worth building a skid-way?

Where will your slabs go? How will you move them? How will you dispose of them?

Where will the sawdust be ejected? On many band mills, this is often directly in the path of travel for the operator. How will you get rid of it as it builds up?

Will you be using your mill for board edging? Where will the boards go while they are waiting to be edged?

Where will you stack your lumber? Will you be cutting all one dimension or a variety. How will you sort it? How will you sticker your piles (using green wood stickers will result in sticker-stain) How will you move your piles when it comes time to use your lumber. Depending on the size of your lumber, how will you move your lumber from the mill to the pile?


If you consider all of these factors, it will save you time and headaches in the long run.

I've got some experience with a Woodmeizer LT40 hydraulic, and can share some of the things not to do.

Ryan

[Dave Lehnert]

Been kicking around the idea of a sawmill myself. Been looking for two or three months now. In my research I have been eying the Norwood. Does look like a good value.

Right now I am reading this book. Goes into great detail on how trees grows and such (too much IMHO) How to mill etc...

http://www.amazon.com/Harvesting-Urban-Timber-Woodworkers-Library/dp/0941936716/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1240096277&sr=8-1

[James White]

I have a Lumber Mate and couldn't be more pleased with it. Take your time assembling it paying attention to getting the rails nice and strait. Watch the video and read the manual twice. It takes time but it is not difficult. It was actually fun.

Other than that join the Forestry forum and educate yourself about drying lumber. It must be edged or at least have the bark removed. Then properly stacked the same or next day. Otherwise mold and fungus become an issue that leads to staining and degrade.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/ah188/ah188.htm

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr118.pdf

James

[Jim Andrew]

I have a Cook mp32 and it is one solid machine. Bought it used and have replaced nothing but blades, oil and filter. Nice to have a mill if you have access to trees. But beware, you also need a building for all the other toys you need, and storage for your lumber. My plan is to put up a storage building, and fill it full of lumber for my retirement projects. Jim

[Andy Pratt]

lots of good advice here guys, thank you very much

I've been reading a lot on the forestry forum too, as well as the arborist site (cooler than it sounds)

good point on cutting the trees slowly, i sort of had in my head to fell everything then make a giant pile of logs near the sawmill. It will probaby be much nicer to do a little of each every week so I'm not working the exact same muscles all the time, probably safer too, at least on the cutting end.

my "whole" acre might be considered yard trees, I've got a lumber wizard but I don't think they go deep enough, probably can't justify a better detector though, at least not right now

I would love to read a comprehensive book on sawmilling but it seems like there is nothing currently in print, anyone have any ideas? The urban timber book previously mentioned is all I've been referred to elsewhere and it's not exactly what I'm looking for. I'm wishing there was an "understanding sawing lumber and sawmill technology" by bruce hoadley or something :)

thanks for the help,
andy

[Scott T Smith]

I would love to read a comprehensive book on sawmilling but it seems like there is nothing currently in print, anyone have any ideas? The urban timber book previously mentioned is all I've been referred to elsewhere and it's not exactly what I'm looking for. I'm wishing there was an "understanding sawing lumber and sawmill technology" by bruce hoadley or something :)

thanks for the help,
andy

Try "Sawing,. Edging and Trimming Hardwood Lumber - Putting Theory into Practice" by Joe Denig and Gene Wengert.

Also, take out a subscription to "Sawmill and Woodlot" magazine and get some back issues.

Also read up on the USDA publications related to milling and drying. Best of all, they're free!

Then, check the Forestry Forum or Woodweb to find some local millers, and call them up and ask if you can volunteer to off-bear in exchange for them teaching you the basics of milling.

[Keith Outten]

We have a new advertising sponsor that sells sawmills and other equipment, you might give them a call and tell them you belong to SawMill Creek.

http://www.cookssaw.com/

[Luther Oswalt]

I know nothing of the use of this mill but it sure sounds good: http://www.petersonsawmills.com/
Leo

[Scott T Smith]

I know nothing of the use of this mill but it sure sounds good: http://www.petersonsawmills.com/
Leo


I have a Peterson 10" WPF and have been pleased with it. It's a sight more expensive than a Norwood Lumbermade though...

Bandmills are hard to beat for most milling applications. The Peterson really shines on very large logs, quartersawing and milling long boards.