Stan Johnsey
04-17-2009, 9:22 PM
The previous owner started putting a router on the extention table of my table saw. I finished by putting in my PC 890. I had to open up the hole to 1 3/8 to get the collet through and shorten the screw a bit. This left me with a router table and no fence . . . and no money. I wanted a fence that was a bit taller than you usually see, 6" seemed reasonable.
I cut a piece of 3/4" MDF 12" x 48" then cut this down to 28 1/2" (width of table) x 12". Cut a 3" whole in the middle and the ripped the 28 1/2" x 12" piece in half. After I looked at it, it look better when the piece that is the back/base was 3/4" narrower on the hole side because the hole in the base and the hole in the face now had the came center (router shaft). Cut two 5" x 5" squares from the end of the 12" piece leftover and the cut them in half on the diagonal for braces.
After don' extensive reasearch on screws in MDF I drilled 7/64 pilot holes for the butt joint between the base and the face the full depth of the #8 MDF screws (guy at the scew store called 'em cement board screws) and and also the braces (one on each face of the brace). After I had the pilot hole drilled I drilled the head sides to the shank diameter of the screws to allow the scew to pull it together and then used a fostner bit to countersink the holes. Used Titebond II to glue it together
After lookin' at and admirin' my work for about 20 seconds it occured to me that if I put a couple of blocks (about 1" x 2") to the back edge of the fence I could clamp my router fence to the Biesmeyer fence and avoid having to clamp it to the table and allow me to move it easily.
A competent wood worker could whup this out in 30 minutes. It took me a couple of hours.
This is a prototype. Next one will have a track or slot to attach featherboard.
I cut a piece of 3/4" MDF 12" x 48" then cut this down to 28 1/2" (width of table) x 12". Cut a 3" whole in the middle and the ripped the 28 1/2" x 12" piece in half. After I looked at it, it look better when the piece that is the back/base was 3/4" narrower on the hole side because the hole in the base and the hole in the face now had the came center (router shaft). Cut two 5" x 5" squares from the end of the 12" piece leftover and the cut them in half on the diagonal for braces.
After don' extensive reasearch on screws in MDF I drilled 7/64 pilot holes for the butt joint between the base and the face the full depth of the #8 MDF screws (guy at the scew store called 'em cement board screws) and and also the braces (one on each face of the brace). After I had the pilot hole drilled I drilled the head sides to the shank diameter of the screws to allow the scew to pull it together and then used a fostner bit to countersink the holes. Used Titebond II to glue it together
After lookin' at and admirin' my work for about 20 seconds it occured to me that if I put a couple of blocks (about 1" x 2") to the back edge of the fence I could clamp my router fence to the Biesmeyer fence and avoid having to clamp it to the table and allow me to move it easily.
A competent wood worker could whup this out in 30 minutes. It took me a couple of hours.
This is a prototype. Next one will have a track or slot to attach featherboard.