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Richard 'tbk' Harris
04-17-2009, 12:26 PM
A little background from this noob to the forums: I'm a gearhead who loves cars, computers, building stuff, and working in the yard. I have built several sheds over my lifetime, rebuilt homes, put up awnings, decks, pools, etc. I am middle-aged (did I just say that outloud?) with a family of four kiddos and happily married to the same wife of nearly 14 years...

So now that you don't think i'm a total dink onto the question...

So I have done a lot of searching on this forum and on the internet in general but I have not found an answer to this question.

I am looking to build a deck on the back of my two story house relatively soon and I am wanting to make it two story with a cover at the top. The bottom level will be just below the rear door of the house while the 2nd floor will be a step down. The roof will be shingles, the fancier ones to match the house, and will have to be covered in hardiplank to match the rest of the house.

We live in the San Antonio area (outside of the city limits) and the only code I have to follow is anything my HOA puts up. Of course I would like to follow typical standards as I don't want to waste a bunch of money and have my deck falling deck falling down in no time.

Anyway, here are the questions....

1) Do I need to buy a 20 foot long 6X6 or can I splice two 10 footers with some sort of joint (other than butt joint)?

2) Do I still cut into the 6X6 to have the 2X10s (possibly 2X12s, haven't made up my mind on that yet) and have them set inside them to add strength or is there another recommendation?

3) Would it be better to take a short 6X6, build the first floor up, then put an 8 foot 6X6, putting it on top of the short 6X6 + 2X10 bolted together and go up to the second floor, and do the same for the awning up top?

I hope these questions make sense to you guys, they do in my head... If you need me to draw it out let me know.

Thanks guys!

Lee Schierer
04-17-2009, 3:49 PM
You are into more than a casual deck project here. What you are really doing is adding two covered porches. I would strongly recommend hiring a structural engineer to help you design the load bearing members. I would also recommend that you follow International Building Code standards even though the law doesn't require that in your area just to insure a sound finished product.

Scott T Smith
04-17-2009, 3:57 PM
Richard, I don't have any advice right now, but did want to say "welcome" to SMC! It sounds like you and I have similar backgrounds and interests.

Good luck with your project.

Regards,

Scott

Ben Franz
04-17-2009, 7:51 PM
I second the recommendation to get professional design advise. Even outside the city limits in most areas I've worked there is a county building department that has code enforcement jurisdiction. HOA rules usually don't address technical building issues, only appearance and space concerns. If you ever plan to sell your house, an unpermitted addition without documentation can become a HUGE pain to deal with. Then you think about what a teacher once told a construction law class I took:

"In the USA one in every 800 adults is a lawyer and they're all looking for work."

May not be what you want to hear - just my opinions. Good luck and BTW,

Welcome to the Creek:D.

Michael Wildt
04-18-2009, 9:42 AM
Welcome to the creek.
Here in the NE we have seen quite a bit of dual porches collapse due to design and poor construction. Of course time has also put its finger on the porch so they may not be that solid anymore. Porches tend to collect a lot of people when you have a gathering so calculating the load is very critical.

Some quick searching, lots of hits on google, gave this idea:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1275796.html

The joint you were mentioning could be a basic lap joint.

John Bush
04-18-2009, 9:52 AM
Hi Richard,
Sounds like a great excuse to buy more tools!!
I'm building a good sized project for our community playground and, not being in the trades or experienced in construction, my bar napkin drawings were eyecatching conceptually but lacking in engineering detail. I drew new plans ,with straight lines, and gave them to a design engineer and he had accurate plans with -to code- specs in just a few days.
Cost ~$300 . He gave lots of suggestions that helped reduce costs and design elements that made it look better too. I imagine any experienced carpenter or framer could build it safely, but it would be a good idea to have it designed and stamped by a pro to cover you backside for both safety and our litigious friends. Good luck, JCB.

Richard 'tbk' Harris
04-18-2009, 12:14 PM
Some quick searching, lots of hits on google, gave this idea:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1275796.html

The joint you were mentioning could be a basic lap joint.

That link shows exactly what one of my thoughts was. I have seen a few links that have a bunch of 2X6's that are nailed/spliced together (making a 6X6 post), then wrapped in wood to make it look nice. However, I like the idea of a 6X6 that is more like that link.

I certainly hear everyone about building codes, engineers, etc. I do plan on following the Southern Building code and keep everything up-to-spec as for as that goes. Fortunately I went to college to become a civil engineer so most of this stuff is no biggie, i was just concerned about that joint between the 1st and 2nd floor. Tornado, hurricanes, snow, don't happen often at all in San Antonio but a good 1" of ice happens every few years, which is my main concern for weather.

I have no plans on skimping on products so getting a certified engineer involved may not be a bad idea at all.

Thanks for all of the feedback and I certainly appreciate the warm welcomes!